Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - CEL Comes On After Gas Fill?
Oct 10, 2013
I have a 2006 Toyota Prius, it has 283000 miles and still running strong on original battery and engine.
Lately, I noticed that when I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on after 2 days of driving. After I get under half a tank, the check engine light will turn off. the check engine light will return after 2 days of filling up.
Other than that, there is nothing wrong with the car. And I get 55 mpg highway and 45 city.
What is the cause of this and you think this could be a serious problem?
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My 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?
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This happened a few times on my 2006 Prius but never for this long. I had a half tank of gas. Filled it up (maybe a little too much). Now the gauge is stuck on a half tank even thought it is actually filled.
I drove 55 miles and it still reads a half tank. Is this indicative of a systemic problem or normal operations? It is cold here in the North East US. So I'm sure that has something to do with the gauge not resetting?
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When I filled up with gas today the mileage in the display didn't reset to back to zero after I turned the car back on and drove away. Is this indicative of a problem, or is it just a fluke?
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I used to fill up with gas without shutting the car down, because I didn't see a need for it. I would disable the fan on the climate control every time to avoid having the ice come on as I refueled. I figured that because the ice wasn't coming on, I wasn't breaking the law. I've since changed my mind about this, after reading posts here on Prius Chat. I also recently noticed on the last few fillups that it seems like the gas capacity on the bladder has decreased significantly.
I used to be able to refuel the car when it was down to a single flashing pip and put 10.5 gallons in with no problem, and without overfilling. I have always been careful not to overfill. However, it seems like now I can get only 8 gallons in at the most. The capacity has decreased with the colder weather, however I used to be able to get 10 gallons in on a consistent basis without overfilling even during the winter.
Is this reduced bladder capacity a result of damage to the system, or is this normal? I have probably filled the car up about 100 times since I've owned it (odometer is around 50K now) while remaining in the ready mode.
Is there anything I can do to expand the capacity of the bladder back to normal, or will I have to live with this? Although it's annoying, I'm not going to spend the money to replace the fuel tank unless it's truly necessary.
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Daughter got a new car 2010 accent gls. It burps fuel after every fill up (after the fuel nozzle shuts off like it should) and runs down the side of the car... sounds like hyundai has problems with this on a few different models. This is the first non-gm vehicle in our family. I grew up working with them and driving them and know them well.
Anyway, looks like 3 different parts here:
Having this same issue on my daughters 2010 Accent GLS. It burps up fuel after the fuel shuts off on the pump. Which exact part do I need?
-Vapor Canister
-Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid
-Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid
I'm assuming it's the vent valve solenoid, I've got the part on order. Looks easy to replace and I will be pulling the canister box down and taking a look when I replace it. I'll check everything with air (blowing into it etc...).
On a side note, combined fuel economy is 36.5mpg. I would expect that though, small engine, small car etc...
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I understand that filling up with gas when the car is running is not recommended. I did it once without realizing that it could cause issues. Now I am trying to determine if that action has anything to do with the CEL being on. The codes are P0442 and P0456. The codes have been cleared several times but the light pops back on after a while, anyway from one day to a week later.
Smoke test did not reveal any issues. My question is this, can filling up with the engine running cause any physical problems with any of the EVAP components? What would be the most likely problem? I plan on buying a new gas cap, since it is cheap. I do not wish to spend a lot fixing this problem.
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My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
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So my sonata 2.4L has been freaking me out lately. Once it has been driven and warmed up good, it starts to idle rough at rest at lights and in traffic. Now the crazy thing is it idles even more rough if I switch it into neutral during those stops. One more thing is it idles the worst after I fill up with gas and get stopped at lights.
So what I have done:
Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray
Changed spark plugs (I4 so it comes with coils not plugs)
Put Lucas Gas treatment in
So I'm getting no check engine light. So all I can think of is fuel filter. Or some other sensor. I mean I know it could be a coil so that would be the next thing I check. What this could be?
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I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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I'm sure it's been asked before but why even show the gas level and claim those miles in the range. Also is there any way to tow this thing and while I'm here is there any way to use a floor jack on these.
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This has happened to me a couple of times...last night most recently. My gas gauge was flashing so I stopped for gas.
I was only able to pump 3-4 gallons, before the hose shut off and every attempt to continue filling after that would only go a second or two before the hose shut off again.
I was careful I though to allow fumes not to build up since I imagined that might be why the hose was shutting off.
I drove for a few miles and later that night stopped again at the same station and was able to fill up as expected.
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A demonstration of how the Airlift tool spares you from the hassle of burping the system and attaching a hose to the top air vent on the engine. Done on a 2010 Prius but it applies across the board.
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Gas mile indicator was showing 54 miles when we went to fill up the gas. Gas indicator is at 1/2 full, but indicator is still showing 54 miles to empty tank.
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How do you or can you keep the MPG display from resetting every trip. Is there a way to have it display the total MPG from filling to fill up?
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On average, how many miles do you average between fill ups. I understand that this is all dependent on everyone's respective commutes, road conditions, ability to charge at work, etc., but i'm interested to know what you all do on average.
I'm still on my first tank and have 905 miles with one bar left on my tank.
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
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I have noticed that my estimated range after fill ups has dropped after the last three fill ups. I used to get around 520 miles after fill up. The last three have been in the 480 miles range.
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Since purchase, I've had one gas fill up at 694 miles. That was four or five weeks ago and it's still full. My EV ratio is 65% (1100 miles) and will continue to increase. I realize I'm carrying a lot of dead weigh for weeks. For those with high EV mode use, what's your recommendation with gas fill ups? I'm thinking no more than fives gallons for daily commute and around town.
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