Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Buzzing / Grinding Sound When Turning
Apr 22, 2016
In the past few days, our car (2006 Prius) has begun making some louder-than-normal noises while driving. I've determined that the noise appears when you turn the wheel at all to the right (note: not just making a right turn...any degree to the right past straight is enough). It seems to be constant when the car is running, but really only becomes perceptible around 30 mph. The sound is sort of like a buzzing. Maybe a grinding, but not quite. It sounds like it might be similar to this issue (2006 Engine Noise - buzzing, especially loud on highway | PriusChat), but I can't quite be sure.
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Recently (5-6) months my Gen II has been making some weird sound when I turn it on before the ICE starts. Also when I turn it off after the ICE shuts down. I really don't know how to describe the sound so I took some clips of it. Sort of a high pitched grind maybe? Car has 45xxx, just had the Hybrid water pumped replaced.
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We are only one week in to owning our 2006 Prius! Question is why does it sound like a motor whirring sound after turning it off? It only lasts 20 to 30 seconds, just wondering if this is a normal sound?
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I get a grinding or whirring sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. I gets worse if press the accelerator pedal. I believe it has something to do with the power steering but I don't know how to troubleshoot the issue....
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I have a 2nd generation prius and up now no problems but today my car continously makes a pretty loud buzzing sound if the car is on or off. No lights are on other than the maintenance reminder light as I currently have 57000 and waiting a little longer before I bring it in for the 60,000 check up.
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2000 Venture short wheelbase 122k miles. Original owner from brand new. Has had fuel pump replaced at 40K, intake manifold replaced and full trans (torque converter inclusive) flush, plugs and wires at 75K. (2005) All fluids checked regularly.
Recent problem. Noticed a "grinding/buzzing" sound when traveling above 25 mph. Sound is commensurate with veh speed (not engine speed). If I turn the wheel ever so slightly to the right, the sound "deepens"/gets louder), and I can feel the buzzing in the steering wheel. When I release from turning right, or turn left, the buzzing greatly decreases (though I still hear it), and I can no longer feel it in the steering wheel. I only feel it when I turn the wheel to the right, even just a few degrees.
My thoughts on the culprit (in no particular order): Wheel bearing, Transaxle/final drive (differential). ???????
Wheel bearings: No work done on front wheels/hubs. I did rotors and brake pads in April 2009 (115K). Visual inspection of all of the under car and front end. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary.
Transaxle/Diffierential: Who knows? I have had other vehicles with a normal differential/rear end, that had a bad bearing and I could usually tell which side, just by driving/turning Usually it was an outer bearing (wheel), not an axle bearing (diff).
Observations:
1..Periodically over the last 2-3 years or so, I have had to add about a 8-12 oz of coolant to the overflow every 8 mos or so. I don't know where it goes. I presume it is evaporating somewhere or VERY slowly leaking. Nothing external that can be visually noticed.
2.. Last week I checked the trans fluid. Was off the stick. Had to add 3 qts Dexron VI to bring it to full mark on stick. First two qts. barely registered on the stick. Prior to that last check was at 118k (5 k ago) and June of 2009. My written notes at the time mention "Normal. Didn't smell or look burnt, and no particulate matter in the fluid". Has been a week and the fluid level is still holding fine. Where did the 3 quarts go ???
3.. Opened radiator cap. No sludge or "strawberry milkshake" evidence of trans fluid. Looks fairly clear and orange. About what I would expect for a veh of this age and mileage. All lines to and from trans and radiator look ok. No evidence of leaking ANYWHERE.
4.. Runs an normal temps throughout the year
5.. Shifts fine with no slipping, clunking, grinding (during shifting).
6.. Overall vehicle runs, shifts, handles, and stops well.
7.. Every few weeks the ABS light comes on and then goes out after the next start.
If it's a wheel bearing (and I am leaning that way) How can I determine which side I need to replace? If I turn right, I "load" the left one. Noise gets louder. If I turn left, I "load" the right one. Given the above symptoms should I presume the left one?
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I have a 09 f150 with 160,000 on it. For the last couple months I was hearing an occasional buzzing sound from the engine compartment. Couldn't duplicate it while not driving. The buzzing sound has changed somewhat but it's follow by a grinding sound that seems like the hubs are trying to lock while in 2 wheel drive. I think the buzzing is coming from either the IWE solenoid or the vacuum check valve. My question is this. If I pull the vacuum line off the the solenoid and plug the line will the hubs remain locked till I can dig into this a little deeper. I was thinking that they would stay locked. I should still be able to shift in and out of 4 wheel drive correct?
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My 2006 Prius with 206k miles is making a loud buzzing/grumbling noise when I press down the brake and periodically when parked. It's coming from the general area of the brake pedal, under the steering wheel. See video for a recording of the sound:
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I recently purchased a used 2005 prius. Everything is fine and dandy and i love the car except for an electrical sound which sounds like a buzz. it usually happens when i brake or when i start to accelerate. Any good places to have prius checked out in Chicago IL.
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I have some sort of electrical/wiring issue with my 2005 GTI Auto transmission. Ever since I've owned the car every now and then, it won't start at all; the clock will reset and so will the trip meter. When this happens, it makes a weird buzzing sound while I'm turning the key, and after I let off, the turn signal will click until I pull the key out. I usually have success starting it after playing with the buttons on the turn signal. All fuses are good, and the battery is always charged, because the stereo and lights will work fine. I'm assuming it's either a short or a problem with the turn signal relay...
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For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
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After disassembling what felt like the whole front end of the truck, I finally gain access to the danged thing. Mine has been acting up intermittently for about year and half I guess. When flipping to switch to signal turning, it started making a buzzing sound. At first it was doing it most of the time. Then it cleared up and started working right for several months, then act up, the act right. Well, now it makes the buzzing noise more often than not so i decided to address it. I went to Oreilly, they didn't have one, but told me the part number.
I went across the street to Autozone, that had one on the shelf that was same part number as Oreilly. I put it in and when flipping the switch, the relay does it tick tock sounds like its working, except for there is no indication on the dash cluster that its working, nor are the actual lights working. I swap back to original and buzzing, put in new one and tick tock but no lights. Whats the deal? Is this one of those things that you have to go back to Ford? Or maybe i got a bum relay from parts house and should exchange for another to see if it works?
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Unlike the full-size Prius I used to have, the c seems to have a speaker somewhere under the hood which makes a buzzing/grinding noise when the car is powered by battery rather than by the engine. Is there a relatively simple way to disable this? I miss 'stealth mode' actually being stealthy. Possible to disable the EV mode 'growl'?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I purchased (2/17/16) a 2009 Toyota Prius with roughly 73,000 miles. I have recently (the past 4-5 days, except the brake issue that occurred a couple of weeks ago) encountered a number of issues. The issues occur intermittently.
First, while braking, usually when it's raining or damp outside, I might hear a grinding sound like grains between the pad & rotor. Or, the car will be gliding to a stop then at about the 4-6 mph range the brakes will grab and the car comes to a complete and abrupt stop.
Second, while idling in 'P' the engine will engage and the car will shift forward about an 1-2" then roll back (as if bucking). My foot is off the brake pedal. I have the sensation that the car is going to drive itself.
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When turning right, either sharply or just during a long gradual turn in the road, I hear a grinding or running sound consistent with RPM coming from the rear - I think the right rear. It driving flat, no sound. If turning left, no sound. To me, it seems if the right rear is unloaded a bit weight wise, the sound occurs.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Hoping not differential, but it really does seem to come from right rear not center of rear. Only if turning right and moving weight to left side.
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I recently accidentally drove my Camry into curb in a parking lot. It was only a light, but since then I've noticed a grinding sound ONLY when turning right. Everything else seems fine. I looked under the car and saw the black plastic casing under the car is cracked and it looks like it might be grinding against the left tire, which could cause that noise. I've also heard it could be a bearing, but would that suddenly happen immediately after an encounter with a curb?
I do plan on taking it to the shop, but I have to wait at least a week until I get paid. I'm guessing that should be okay.
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I've been getting a grinding sound when turning my car. The sound is especially noticeable when pulling in or out of a parking spot and when turning at low speeds. The sound I hear is reminiscent of an old bed spring compressing or an ironing board closing (maybe a bit deeper of a sound than that though). I took it in for service, and they replaced the strut tops. However, the sound returned the next day, and it seems to be getting worse. All parts in the car are stock.
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....
Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.
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