Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Battery Won't Working Properly After Two Month Rest
Aug 17, 2010
We spend summers away and our 06 Prius stays in the garage. I connect a battery minder and it keeps the 12v battery charged with no problem. I also turn off the switch under the steering column that works with the remote.
When I started the car after two months and driving for a few blocks, I noticed the MFD showed the battery at a low of two purple lines. After a while, it charges up normally. The car has 47000 miles and the 12 v battery has never been changed. Would that have something to do with it or am I being concerned over nothing?
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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I just bought a certified 2010 Prius and have had it for 3 months now. Twice within one month, there was absolutely no power to start the car because the aux battery went dead overnight. I'm pretty sure I didn't leave any lights on and don't think I did anything differently when exiting the car for those 2 times. I took it into the dealership, and they couldn't find anything wrong. They said the battery was good. What is draining the battery overnight?
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my nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
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I replaced the battery in my 2011 Sonata. After the install I reset the radio, clock etc. and everything seemed to work fine electronically. The car was very low on gas and when I filled it later that same day the "Distance to Empty" display in the dash only read 271 miles after fill up. Typically when it is filled it reads 550+ to empty. After three tank fulls the display now reads 375 when filled up. Is there a reboot for this function? Does it have to be done by a dealer?
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I've got a 2002 Passat 4cyl whose battery has been replaced twice in a month and died again today. I drove it for 30 minutes yesterday and found it dead about 24 hours later. Putting an ammeter in series with the ground cable, I only see a 10-20 milliamp draw with the car closed and locked. With the car running, I see 14 volts across the battery terminals, so I'm assuming the alternator is working.
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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A/C on my 2006 V6 3,3L Sonata just stopped working properly today when driving away from a supermarket, it blows only very hot air regardless of the temperature you choose on the display. It worked fine while driving to the supermarket and nothing remarkable happened to the car while I was shopping. All lights on A/C display, fan speed and everything else works fine, it just doesn't react to the temperature button at all.
I already checked the 10A A/C fuse under the bonnet, it's fine. There is an A/C relay in fuse box that I can check tomorrow but I suspect the fault to be somewhere else.
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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I posted earlier getting failure codes that might indicate something wrong with the battery pack. The codes were P3000, subcode 123, v0100 subcode 211/330. My independent mechanic said that I needed both the battery pack and the battery ECU replaced, based on these codes and the fact that they tested the hybrid pack under load.
At the same time, my auxiliary battery was low. You folks suggested replacing that first.
So I did. I have so far driven over 140 miles without the engine check light and triangle of death coming on again. But I do notice that the SOC screen shows my battery going into the green far more often and far more readily than I remember it doing so in the past. All it takes is a little downhill (say quarter to half a mile) and it will go into green--sometimes 100%.
I'm guess what I'm looking for is some sort of objective data that says my mechanics are right and not shining me on.
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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i have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 couple off days water in my radiator started to finish every morning I have to refill it again I haven't noticed any leaking near the engine or under the vehicle but when i drive around i noticed a steam is coming out of my air vent though the air condition is off and the temperatures of the engine rises when i tried to open the radiator cap it was already empty i checked around inside the car i have found the floor mat in the passenger side is wet
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I've had a 2004 Prius for about one year. It has ~120K miles and has been a great car. We left a light on, and the 12V battery died. We jumped it and everything seems to work fine, except now the air conditioner isn't working.
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I've attached some pictures of what it looks like. Sometimes there are no lines and just black but the display button still overlaps. Everything else seems to be working. I think this happened when I got the 12v battery replaced. I am also not sure I have a nav dvd. How do you eject those DVDs?
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
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I am not sure if I need a new fob.
My smart key quit working. I have replaced the battery, and checked the button under the steering wheel. The little red light on the fob does not blink or light up when I push it. I think I recall this light coming on when a button is pushed.
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