Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 Starting To Burn Oil After 180K
Nov 9, 2011
Starting to use or burn oil after hitting 180K..... a tech said that maybe need a clean out...
View 2 RepliesStarting to use or burn oil after hitting 180K..... a tech said that maybe need a clean out...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry LE 2.5L 4cyl that is starting to burn oil, I would say that it goes from the full to low mark every 5000km (3000mi). I have been using Toyota 0w20 oil since day 1, it has about 242,000km (151k miles) on it currently. Do you think switching to a thicker oil such as 5w20 would work?
I love the Camry, I had a 2006 2.4L SE before. To me, the Camry strikes a perfect balance between style, functionality, and of course reliability.
My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
View 5 Replies2005 Prius transmission starting to slip after hard mountain road climb? Just started to do this. Is there a transmission dip or check capability?
View 12 RepliesI have a '05 Forester XT with 135,000 miles, I purchased the car new and have always performed regular maintenance and oil changes. The car is my baby.On a recent freeway drive I heard a "pop" followed what sounded like a shredding accessory belt. This went on for several miles with diminishing power. There was zero smoke from the exhaust. I managed to coax it into the nearest Subaru dealership. They diagnosed a bad AVCS solenoid, with P0011 error code. They charged me $2200.00 to change the solenoid and clean all the oil feed lines! While they were at it, I had them clean the banjo bolts to the turbo, as this had never been done. The engine was removed from the vehicle for them to complete the work.
Today I went to pick it up, it started right up and idled fine. When I pulled onto the highway and accelerated TONS of blue smoke billowed from the exhaust and it had zero power. Before this the car burned one quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I turned around and the car is now back at the dealership.I'm at a loss as to what to do. The car is not driveable at this point.I hate to point fingers, but what could the dealership have done to cause this excessive oil smoke? Again, the car NEVER smoked before the dealership got a hold of it.
Having issues with headlights burning out in their 2010 Prius??? I had my bulbs replaced at 49,000 miles and they burned out again before 55,000 miles. They both burned out within two/three days of each other. I took it into the dealership and they weren't useful at all....
View 19 RepliesI have had 5 bulbs burnout in 2 months. I'm not touching the bulb and I am using grease. I've tried the higher end sylvania bulbs and they still don't last. What might be causing this?
View 12 RepliesQuick truck stats: 2005 F150, 5.4L, 85,000 miles
The past few weeks my engine has been hesitating on some cranks before it would start. I figured it was due to the cold weather so didn't pay too much attention to it as it was also not throwing the check engine light.
Yesterday it didn't start at all after the several attempts of just cranking over and over. It still didn't seem to trip the check engine light but I pulled my scanner out anyways and it had the code p1237. I cleared it and the truck started right up. It even had no more issues the three times I started the truck after that.
Today, however, she is not starting again and not throwing any codes. Still cranking so I'm sure it's not the started or the battery. I'm going to have my husband pick up some starter fluid on his way home today to see if I can at least get a temporary start since I think it's the fuel pump, or possibly the fuel filter. It is cold again this morning so I'm wondering if the cold is somehow making this issue worse. Either way I'd like to fix it, since being stranded with a truck that doesn't start is not my idea of a way to pass the time.
What else it might be and how I might be able to diagnose it?
How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
I have a 2002 f-250 7.3 diesel, i straight piped it but only by cutting muffler off and welding a piece of pipe in its place, it is pretty loud but id like to hear the turbo more like more of a whistle, it has a pretty good whistle once i get past 1500 rpm, is there a slightly bigger turbo i could put on without putting too much strain on the 180,000 mile engine?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 nissan maxima that won't start. I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key). I checked to see if it was the ignition switch by bridging the connection on the starter with a screw driving. The starter comes on but the car wont start. It tried starting it in neutral (still doesn't work). It's not the security because the light turns off when you try to start it.
View 19 RepliesMy 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
View 1 Replies2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
This morning when I sit in my prius, engaged brake and pressed ON, I was surprised that the car was not starting. In fact in was in a status between OFF and IG-ON mode. The cabin lights were on, so as the head lights. The dash was lighted, but weird: the fuel indicator shown empty, though it was filled two days ago and the central screen was not lighted, so it was not the IG-ON mode in which the central screen should be lighted.
I cannot switch from the P mode, and I don't remember whether I saw the "ready" on the dash. I turned the system OFF and repeated the procedure but it was on the same situation. I was a bit panic, looking at the manual and after few minuets I decided to try again. And surprisingly it backed to normal. I drove it all the way to work and didn't notice anything wrong.
I have a 2008 Prius. I noticed that a large red triangle displayed briefly on the left when I started my car the other day. I know all the other smaller icons light up briefly but I don't remember the large red triangle lighting up. It and all the other icons go off after a second or two. Then the next time I started the car there was no red triangle. Then maybe the 3rd time I started the car, the large red triangle did again appear briefly. I took my car to my Toyota dealership but the tech said that is normal and means a door must be open, but that cannot be correct. I make sure all doors are closed and the "Open door" icon is not showing. I have already been through the water coolant inverter pump disaster so I admit I am a little paranoid about any funny things showing on my dash.
View 16 Replies I have the problem with my Prius 2011 year. The car have the accident and not starting. It was a lot of problem with hybrid system, transmission, air bag, engine room. Now I bought new engine control computer, airbag and transmission control from Toyota dealer. now I want to start my Prius but he not starting. NO fault codes in hybrid system, engine control, transmission. Only in anti-brake system. All wiring is good but are some fault
1) C1203 ECM communication circuit malfunction
2) C1231 Steering angle sensor circuit
3) C1247 stroke sensor
4) C1345 linear solenoid valve offset learning undone
5) C1392 zero point calibration of stroke sensor undone.
And i want to now how to synchronize my engine control because in ECM information not write my car model ZVW---. I read some forum it's necessary to tether the engine computer.
I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
What the warning lights mean (red triangle with exclamation mark inside, and yellow icon upper left of display, 2005 Gen II)? It comes on after starting the ICE, used to come on intermittently, now it's all the time... my hunch is the suspension because the ride has been getting worse, with unusually loud sound from the wheels over potholes!
View 3 RepliesI have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
Thursday afternoon I drove about 120 miles total in my 2004. At about 40 miles I left my wife to shop and drove on to 3-4 other stops for myself and then came back to pick her up for the 40 mile drive home. When she got into the passenger seat, she found that the carpet & mat on the floor were sopping wet, so we put some heavy towels over the wet area to protect her shoes. When we got home (with NO operational issues), I removed the passenger floor mat, put several thicknesses of more heavy towels on the carpet and placed 2 concrete blocks on the towels to soak up the water.
On Friday, I changed the towels and did not use the car. Saturday, I removed the towels, concrete blocks, and went to start the car so I could see if there was water dripping from under the dash from a plugged condensate drain, since I had not driven in rain or water on Thursday. The dash displayed every warning light imaginable including "check engine", hybrid system warning, slip indicator, brake system warning, Master warning (!), VSC, Maint reqd. Now it is Sunday and I still cannot get to the "Ready" light so I can start the car. My traction battery condition was solid green yesterday, solid blue today. The radio, interior lights, A/C fan, door locks, etc. all work.
Could there be anything under the passenger carpeting (or behind the dash which might have gotten wet which could be causing these problems/codes?
When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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