Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Key Fob Not Working Remotely
Jul 23, 2014
This is the backup key fob, as the original key fob was lost. Until recently, it would work to unlock the doors and did not need to be inserted into the dashboard.
Now, the door needs to be unlocked with the mechanical key and the car won't start unless the key is inserted into the dashboard.
I have replaced the battery in the key fob and it blinks red when buttons are pressed, but still won't work remotely.
I have also checked the 12V battery using instructions I found in this forum and it appears to be fully charged.
And, I have checked the button under the steering wheel and it is out which is supposed to be the on position. Just in case, I also tried pushing it in.
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07 Prius, non smart key. One fob failed, other one works but button covers worn off. Purchased new fob, did the chicken dance, fob will now start car... but will not open/lock doors remotely. Took battery from working fob and put in new fob, no difference. New fob light blinks like the old working one when buttons are pressed. I do not have the "fob" button under the steering column, just a tire pressure set button there. In another thread someone wrote that with the new fob in the slot, start the car, and open and close the door, and function the locks to set new fob to be able to operated the locks... no luck.
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Anyway, I have a 2005 Prius (not sure of the package, but it has the 5CD JBL system) and some electronics aren't working.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 185,000 miles on it. When i left for work this morning, the headlights would not come on. The fog lamps work, and they go off when the turn signal lever is pushed forward to high beam, and the high beam indicator comes on when the lever is pushed forward, the dash indicator comes on when the headlights are turned on, The parking lamps and tail lamps are working but neither headlight on high or low beam (they are halogens). Both were working yesterday.
I drove to work using the fog lamps, and when I go on the freeway I turned the cruise control on, the dash light indicated the cruise was on, but it will not set.
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The info screen on my 2005 Prius shows up black. When I push one of the buttons, it gradually goes to its normal brightness, stays that way for about 10 seconds, then goes black again. The buttons all work while its lighted.
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
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I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I have a 2007 Prius IV and recently experienced the following:
a. I can't open door by just pulling handle nor lock all doors by depressing door button. I must use the UNLOCK/LOCK feature on the FOB
b. I can't start the car remotely while sitting in driver's seat. FOB must be inserted in slot to start car.
c. I have strong mini-RED light indication on my FOB which should indicate proper battery power.
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Love the car..... really wish it would honk or chirp when I lock the doors. Any clue how to make this happen? All that happens now are the lights flash....
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i have a 2005 prius got it 2 years ago when it hade 120,000 miles now has 211,000 runs good but last week on my driver side the tail light and low beam light stopped working at the same time the high beam works fine what could it be?
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2005 5.4 - this is really weird to me, 4x4 hi works good, 4x4 lo not working at all. After 130+ tries to engage I'm givin' up on this... Troubleshooting with 4x4lo?
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'05 Prius "smart" key does not work in the auto - open, lock, start, etc mode. Is this a battery problem? The actual key when pulled out of the case, of course unlocks the doors and will start the car when in its case.
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I'm a new owner of an 05 Toyota Prius. Im loving the car so far, however, i am having an issue with my high beams not working. After doing lots of research it looks like the high beams on the Prius comes from the same bulb, what controls the high beams is the reflector.
My low beams and all other lights are working fine. After removing my bumper and looking through all the wiring I have noticed that their are two plugs that are not attached to anything. The lights look brand new, so my thoughts are that this car had HID lights and they were then replaced to non-HID lights.
How to get the high beams working. I don't see any HID ballast anywhere, so converting it back to HID would be costly since i would need new headlight plus ballast and bulbs.
I tried looking for wiring diagrams but can seem to find any.
Here is the link to some images: Prius Photos by Izzy25323 | Photobucket
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Truck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
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Ok, i got a 2005 Prius, recently i had to change the expansion valve so the dashboard was dismantled to get to the expansion valve somewhere behind the MFD. All that had been completed, but i noticed that the A/C direction control does not switch the direction of the air accordingly instead all the air comes out through the base of the dashboard (the foot area).
The touch screen 'climate' console is working fine. When I switch the A/C on, and set the fan to any level, air comes out of the foot area (base of the dashboard). This is the case at all vent directions.
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Installed Kenwood DDX7701HD unit and I have lost right side speakers. Used Metra Axxess TYTO-1 harness along with ASWC-1. Also had bad battery cell and replaced battery. I get plenty of sound from drivers area but when I adjust balance to right there is no sound at all there. At this point my ASWC-1 cycles through but isn't recognizing radio. That issue can wait unless it is part of this issue.
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2005 F-150 5.4L RWD
I purchased this truck about 2 years ago, with about 70k miles. Previous owner had transmission work done, but I'm not sure if it was a rebuild, new, or refurbished. About 8 months ago I experienced hesitation, and frequent stalling when coming to a stop. Pulled the engine codes, and they said it was throttle body related. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body assembly inside, with the battery disconnected, went through the idle re-learn process, and it drove fine for a few days. Took it into the shop, and they did a tune up and replaced several plugs and coils. Since then, it's run great.
A couple of weeks ago, a whining/buzzing noise was coming from the engine compartment, getting much louder as RPMs increased. Got the oil changed a week ago (it was overdue), and the tech at the quick lube shop said the noise was from the drive pulley(s), and that they should be replaced.
Today, I was waiting for the parking lot at work to open, sitting in park. I quickly switched to Drive, and the trans didn't seem to engage (Auto Trans). The engine revved, I let off the gas, and it then engaged and I scooted into a parking spot. After work, on the way home, there were similar issues at the beginning of the drive, mainly when slowing down/stopping/down-shifting. Most of the drive was on hwy, and I managed to get by okay going around 60 mph, with some spikes in RPM's occasionally when I would accelerate (no Tach, so I'm going by sound). Half way home on the high way, the O/D Off light starting quickly blinking, and the odometer screen read "TRANS FAULT". I managed to make it off of the highway, and stopped at the first red light, where the engine stalled. Turned it back on, put it in gear, and it drove fine for about 5-10 minutes on back roads, with no lights/notices. The last 2 miles home I experienced a lot of slipping, and high revs. When I backed into my parking spot, there was noticeable leaking... Trans fluid was leaking fairly quickly. I hadn't noticed any trans fluid leaking before today... I went out to run the engine and take a short trip to warm up the fluid to get a reading, but it wouldn't engage in Forward or Reverse at all. Pulled the dipstick out, while "cold", and there was nothing... I'm assuming that it's drained drastically, and is extremely low or gone.
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05 v8 5_4. Xlt
Odometer display quit on me. This is the co.pass and temp as well. I have also noticed that when I come to a complete stop and then take off a again, the auto lock feature activates like I had put it in park and then back to drive. Thinking I could have an electrical issue here.
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