Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - RPMs Usually Go Up But Car Don't Speed Up
Jan 31, 2011
My 05 rpms rise on one road in only one place and no where else. I am going down hill coasting (in drive) and pass over road damage (blacktop St RT 131 Ohio) which sways my car to the left and then imed. back to the right. This then happens one more time within 35 feet. rpms usually go up but does not make the car speed up. on1/24/11 on same hill a change occurred. Pass over "hump" again (always downhill) coasting or braking and rpms went way up . again, the cars speed in NOT changed. Toyota dealer wants me to come in. Wants to duplicate rpm revving. Only does it on ST. RT. 131 hill so I told them they can not just make it happen. No codes showed on Autozone's hand held computer checking device.
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When I'm going up hill or any time I'm at high RPM's, a flicking (not clicking) noise starts. Additional revving of engine. At first, I thought it was the AC blower motor. It's def not that though.
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How the radiator fan goes into high speed? My 2006 Prius A/C works great as long as I am moving. But when stopped in traffic or at a light, the radiator fan does not go into high speed. So the A/C shuts off until I can get cool air back through the condenser.
I replaced the two fan relays, and when I do the fans run into high speed for a moment, then back to slow speed. Is there a temperature sending unit in the Prius I can replace?
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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I noticed my 2005 GX470 started to "bottom out" when going over speed bumps or potholes. The air suspension seems to work fine raising and lowering ok and the general ride is still quite smooth. From some simple searches on the board it would seem that leaking of the air suspension could be the problem?
I did a code read and got the following error codes none of which sem related to the problem.
Code
CO200 Right front speed sensor malfunction
C1223 Malfunction in ABS control system
C1340 Open circuit in central differential lock signal
C2172 tire pressure, transmitter identification number not registered
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I have a 2005 GX470 with 96,000 miles. Yesterday, while going on a 500 mile road trip the car stalled suddenly while traveling about 75mph on the interstate. It would start surging and then just stall completely. I pulled over.. Let the car sit for a minute and then it started right back up with no trouble. It did this to me 4 times on the trip about 80-100 miles between issues. The last time it was while accelerating hard up hill. All other electrical functions.. Radio, lights, etc... continued to work fine. I don't recall the cel ever coming on and even if it did it wasn't on when it restarts. It was 100 degrees out.
I'm on vacation so wanted to get it checked put before we head home but curious on thoughts of what it might be? I was thinking clogged fuel filter or MAS but the fact that it restarts right up after stalling makes me ink it might be more of an electrical issue.
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Bought a 2005 FX4 recently, 107k miles, engine and transmission working smooth and quiet. Changed oil in engine, transmission, transfer case and rear axle, filter in engine and transmission, the oil I drained still looked pretty good.
At take-off or when going slowly the truck sometimes makes a really weird creaking/scratching/rattling noise. It appears to come from underneath the truck, I only can hear it when driving close to a building or taking off besides another vehicle with windows down (noise is reflected by building or other vehicle). There is no jerk, the truck drives normal but the noise is really weird (and alarming?). Where to look?
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Whether in heat or AC mode and any dial position, I'm not getting nearly enough air blowing out of the vents to cool or heat the cabin in a timely manner. The fan switch is working in all positions but I have to use high speed all the time to get enough air to defrost the windshield. I've also noticed that when defrost is selected, air only comes out on the inside part of the vents, not the outside. Is there a cabin filter on this truck, I've checked auto parts stores and they don't list anything for it.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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It looks like, I have the problem with my 2009 Prius, but i was wondering : don't you need any purge of the cooling system after this work is done ? Is there any chance that some air might come into the cooling system during the "clamp" session?
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I own a 2007 Prius Touring w/120kish miles. We are currently experiencing a huge booming resonance at idle and low RPMs. The noise isn't subtle, almost sounds like we're in a Huey with the doors open. Here's what I believe I know:
- No DTC's are being thrown
- ICE seems as smooth as ever
- No apparent changes in fuel economy
- Plugs were replaced 40k ago and coil ignitors are original--not running rough or missing though
- Visual inspection of exhaust shows no leaks or contact with body
- Motor mounts pass the test I looked up [in drive/reverse, depress brake, watch unusual engine displacement]
- Noise is not vehicle speed related, only engine speed coupled--probably between 1K and 1.8k rpm
I'm sure I'm leaving something out but aside from messing with the coils or plugs I've looked at everything I can think of. I haven;t gone to the dealer yet. Lot's of reading searching have only revealed CV issues.
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Just curious. Are my RPM's running high? Currently I'm running 3000 rpm's at 76 mph. Is that high? Someone told me it was. (My speedometer shows I'm running 80mph but both my gps show 76mph, stock tires, 1.8T). Pretty sure I'm in range.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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A few days ago my 98 C1500 started having what I can only imagine is some type of torque converter issue. While driving at a constant speed the RPM will surge by about 500-600. This surge does not coincide with any type of acceleration, it's more like the converter is letting go and the RPM's just rise and fall back down. The fluctuations also seem to stop after about 15 minutes of normal driving. I have had no real noticeable transmission issues. At first i assumed it was my tranny fluid just breaking down so to get me home I used a bottle of Lucas.
The bottle seemed to do the trick for only a couple of days and now the problem is back...no better, no worse. The only difference I have noticed is that before the addition of the Lucas my fluid looked perfect and now it seems there is a bit of varnish. No smell, nothing seems burnt, just a little dirty. I haven't changed the tranny fluid for about 70k and the truck now has roughly 160K on it. My concern is that if I do change it the transmission will crap completely and I'll be on the hook for a rebuild.
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My dad recently backed into my front right side. There was very little exterior damage but it still had a dent. I took out the dent and checked under for any visible damage and didn't see any. Over the past 3 months something has developed a little worse. It started as a small little crunch on the right side when going over speed bumps. Now on turning left hard or stuff like that and I hear it crunch. Its worse with more weight. It sounded like plastic but there's no loose plastic or anything. It's 05 Prius with 150k and I don't think there were any replaced shocks done. I bought it used.
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Bought my Prius about 14 months second hand . Despite 112 checks or whatever, within a few months the brakes were grinding. I took it to a local garage and they said the pads were worn to near nothing and replaced them all. They said I had scoring on the rear brake discs, so I replaced them too.
I got really back noise with the front brakes every time I used them after a few weeks. Took it back. Was told that the front discs needed replaced (and off course the front pads again). It was soon back to noisy and they replaced the front pads for nothing. The problem went away for a few days, then returned, but only a very low speed braking (or when putting the final squeeze.)
That garage tried a few things, then said it was my heaving braking glazing the pads, so they roughed them up. Problem hadn't gone. Add to this that the non-moving parts are really rusty looking, it looks naff.
Well, I took it to Kwik Fit having had some time to save some money for a proper fix. They would be happy to replace all discs and pads, but it'd cost abit. Called Toyota, they cost about the same. I left my car with Toyota yesterday pointing out the problem and a few other things I wanted fixing. I made it clear I felt the brake discs and pads were 'crap' and not Toyota and wanted them replaced. They said they'd inspect and do what was necessary.
Well, I've new windscreen wipers, they sorted out a separate problem and cleaned out the front brakes. According to Toyota there is nothing to stop those parts of the brake disc that aren't moving from rusting. They also said the discs and front pads were fine. Well, that squeaky noise is still there.
Why, after practically begging, did they not just replace everything? Is there any other possible explanation for the low braking speed squeak? Why don't brake discs not come with those parts not in contact with the brake pads painted so they won't rust?
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My beloved Gen II, with 160,000 miles, this week started stalling (drive systems shutting down) when I press the accelerator to pass or to regain speed after slowing to enter an intersecting roadway. The dreaded red triangle and the check engine light come on. After pulling to the side of the road and fully shutting down, the system will restart, although the warning lights stay lit. (They both go out after a time.) Am out of town for a few weeks and hope to gain some insight that will allow me to wait until I can get the car back to a trusted service department. Suspect fuel filter, but replacement seems to require removal of gas tank.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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