Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Motor Revving To 3k - 4k But Not Moving
Aug 27, 2014
I have 160k on my 2005 prius. When letting off the gas peddle in DRIVE the motor is reving up to 4k with out the trans kicking in and moving the car. I have replaced the 12v bat, cleaned the t-body and mass air sensor.
I took it to the local toyota dealer for a recal and now they have had the car for over a week. I am being told it is the floor peddle sending a false voltage to throttle body. I highly doubt that this would not make the care go and not just idle up to 4k.
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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I currently have I45, 2 years old, that recently when driving at 100km approx 1.5to2K revs, loud noise like tyre has blown but was is happening the motor goes up to 3k revs, I have to pull over & stop the motor & restart otherwise if I keep driving the motor is revving at 3k revs unable to increase speed.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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My wife and i have noticed over the last few months that our 08 has been revving higher, (much higher), than it used to when driving uphill. It has 65 k miles.
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I am afraid to drive my car on the highway and if I am damaging my car by driving it I want to make sure I hold the auto care shop that put the wrong size tire on my car responsible.
I have Bridgestone Ecopia EP100 BL tires size 185/65R15 on my 2007 Prius that I got in 2010. Because of a nail in one tire I had to replace one of the tires two days ago. The technician said they did not have the exact same tire any more but he would replace it with something comparable.
The next day I drove 2 hours on the interstate and the slip indicator light kept flashing, it felt like the engine was revving a lot and/or the transmission wouldn't shift when I got to highway speeds, and it was a little scary. My first thought was something with the new tire since I had absolutely no problems before.
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i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
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Our 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
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I was driving my truck and smelled a bit of burning oil pulled over to see what it was when I stopped the truck died and said check gauges everything looked fine but I noticed that it had puked oil on top of the motor around the number 1&2 coil packs and also 5&6 coil packs.. 2005 f150 5.4 ...
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I have an 06 Trailblazer with power seats. Moved the pass. seat up to fit something in the back. When went to put seat back into position it would not move back. The reclining function on the seat back is working. Is it unheard of for the seat motor to go bad or is it possibly just off track, or something?
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So the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
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Getting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
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Just bought a 2006 with 80k miles and HID headlights on it and noticed while parking in the garage last night that only the passenger side high beams work. Upon closer inspection and having my fiance flip the beams on and off I could see that the reflector on the drivers side didn't move at all.
This is after i just had a brand new driver side lens, bulb and ballast installed as when i bought it the headlight had a lot of condensation built up inside it. So I'm not really sure if the highbeam was working before this was all replaced because the bulb went out right after i bought it.
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The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
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Cleaned the engine and determined the location of this oil leak. I am posting two pics. The far away shot shows the leak in the center of the picture...near the motor mount. The close up pic u can see the leak coming from a vertical seam just Below where the half shaft enters the transaxle. It is definitely motor oil, not transmission oil.
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Just picked up a 05 with 99500 on it. Drives fantastic and previous to this I used to have an 05 way back that I drove new to 64k. Anyway I test drove it in the rain and with chatter between my wife and I with the sales rep I didn't notice it but now I found that there is a whining noise coming from the timing chain area of the motor. Its only when the car is on and it gets louder as you go towards the passenger side and away from the hybrid components. Here is the sound from my iphone near the motor.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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Recently my a/c in my 2007 prius has been on the fritz. Some days it chooses not to blow any air at all. Others it will blow upon start up with cool air. I just took a road trip and it didn't work for 2 hours then magically came on blowing cold air. I took it in to the local shop to see if they could figure out the issue. To my disappointment, all the "parts" appear to be in good working order. The technician said that the electrical system just wasn't getting to the blower motor and that I should take it in to Toyota.
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I have about 05 with 110000 miles on car and have started to notice that the motor sounds like it is revving up when I come to a complete stop or even hyper miling. I have plenty of juice in battery Not Green and Not Orange. While at a complete stop if I switch from Park/drive/Neutral some times it will then shut off.
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We've owned our 07 since purchased new in 06. It's always made this noise, but it used to be for a short period of time (1-2 min). Now it goes on and on for 5-10 min. It sounds like it's getting "stuck" and starting the cycle over.
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I have a 2005 Suburban Z71 and when in 2wd it will run for several miles then just stop moving like it is in neutral. In auto 4wd it runs just fine. What could this problem be and will it be okay to drive in auto 4wd until I get it to the shop?
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