It sounds like it is coming from the Hybrid Drive. It is really loud. I can hear it as I drive down the road. The best I can figure out from reading forums is it might be some time of coolant pump the drive uses. It starts as soon as I open the door before I start it and it will keep doing it after the car is turned off.
I've posted a video with audio on youtube....
I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
I recently bought a 2007 Prius that is making a rather loud knocking noise that has me a bit perplexed. I know the noise is not normal as my 2005 does not do this.
The noise only happens when the ICE is running and the car is in drive
If the car is in park and you rev up the ICE the noise is not present. With that said I do not think the noise is isolated to something in the ICE as I think it would be present when revving the engine in park.
However is you put the car in drive and step on the brake (to keep the car stationary) while lightly revving the ICE the noise is present. The noise is present every time the car is in drive and you accelerating, even with the lightest of throttle.
It does not need to be under excessive load and with that said I am certain it is not spark knock/per-detonation of the fuel nor does it have the "pinging" sound like a spark knock.
If while driving down the road and the ICE shutdown down while driving at lower speeds the noise disappears. When the ICE starts back up the noise reappears.
I've got a 2005 Avalanche (basically, a Silverado) which has suddenly developed a possible illness. Whenever I start the truck and begin moving (forward or reverse), I hear one (and only one) loud squeak that seems to be coming from the general area of the torque converter or drive shaft (but who knows exactly). The squeak doesn't happen immediately upon moving but always happens within the first 20-30 feet of movement and then no more. If I put the truck in park, re-engage the automatic transmission and start moving, I cannot recreate the sound.
However, if I turn off the engine altogether, restart the truck and begin moving, it happens again exactly as before. It happens every time the vehicle has been restarted, regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. Once it's happened, I can drive hundreds of miles and it won't happen again until I turn off the engine and restart it. Further, I've determined recently that if I start the truck on a hill and let it roll while in neutral and without a foot on the brake, the squeak still happens. Therefore, it's not dependent upon the transmission being in gear or the brakes being applied!
So I have had my 2005 Prius for over a year now. I love my car but after 7 months it made a whining noise coming from by the pulley. When I would accelerate the noise would get worse. Engine light came on tested and said loss of power. The car would not go up large hills it was gutless. So I parked it. I recently just replaced the pulley and now the noise is gone. I have been driving it short distances and at about 30 miles per hour the car would sputter and hesitate. I would let off the gas and push down on gas pedal lighter and it would go fine.
View 19 RepliesWhen I brake I hear a zapping noise coming from the left side. Is this normal or could something be wrong?
View 1 RepliesI just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
I have had no issues with this car of 120K miles until today, although my MPG has decreased to 35 MPG. The following lights came on with a loud beeping sound : Brake warning lights, malfunction indicator light, master warning light and the hybrid system warning light. These stayed on for 25 minutes and then went off. I drove 12 miles without any issues with all the lights and sounds beeping.
View 4 RepliesOk it's kind of hard to explain, but I have a 05 f150 fx4 5.4. Recently only when the motor is cold I will give it gas from about 1000 rpm and get a loud pop. Is sounds like its almost coming from under the drivers seat. After that is fine. I could almost make it do it on command now. But once it's warmed up doesn't seem to do it. I want to fix this. I was thinking possible backfire?? Spark plugs maybe??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon Limited. A couple of weeks ago I put the car in reverse and I started hearing this loud buzzing noise coming from the rear window area. I narrow it down to the rear window sunshade. It also makes this noise when pressing the button to lower the shade and maybe sometimes rising it. I know it has something to do with the relay or motor when the signal is sent to it to lower it, because a lower the shade signal is sent when the car is put into reverse or button is pushed. How to find the motor or relay without taking the rear seat out. Right now I would rather just disconnect it to stop the annoying buzzing noise. Where can I find a service/maintence manual to maybe find out how to disconnect it.
View 14 RepliesA year and a half ago, I had the hybrid battery warning lights come on and had it towed to the dealer. After given the option of replacing the battery for $4300, I took it home and did a single cell replacement (all cells ~8V, one at 6.6V which I replaced), which seemed to be all good until yesterday. Back with the warning lights and blower fan, I jumped to the conclusion that I have a similar situation, removed the battery and all cells are 8.04V +/- .05V except for 1 cell at 7.92. I am not convinced that this cell is really the culprit.
View 11 RepliesMy 2005 prius will not start. We had some body work done to it after a deer ran into me. They did a small amount of welding and had disconnected both batteries. Now the car will not start. It can be put in auxiliary mode but if you try to start it with your foot on the brake, it flashes some lights for a few seconds and then goes dead. Is the hybrid battery too low to start the car? It was pretty low. before the batteries were disconnected. Or did they possibly do something wrong when they disconnected the hybrid battery? Final question would be do they have to do some reprogramming after disconnecting the hybrid battery?
View 11 RepliesFor the past few months I've been hearing a loud fan-like buzzing noise coming from the passenger side of the front of the car. I don't know that much about cars, but it almost sounds like the engine is racing or something is spinning too fast. It has gotten increasingly worse, and seems especially loud at high speeds on the highway.
It is not the heating/cooling fan - the noise is present when the heating/cooling system is turned off.
I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
View 5 RepliesMy car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 in it and its getting ready to hit 90k here soon. I just bought the truck less than a month ago and Ive developed a very loud knock at idle. It sounds like it's coming from down in the oil pan. That's where I can hear it the best. When I give it gas and it reaches about 1400rpm it goes away to where I can't hear it. What would this be? I checked the oil level and its fine. I thought at first maybe it was just a heat shield from the cats loose and rattling but its gotten worse and louder. I'm not driving it until Monday when I take it back to the dealer because I still have some warranty left but I would like to know what I'm looking at maybe. This isn't the cam phasers is it? I've read somewhere that these motors don't get good oil pressure in the heads some places?
View 3 RepliesJust purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
View 2 RepliesI have a noise coming from what seems like the front windshield area. It sounds like when you have a balloon full of air and open a small hole and let it out. That loud squealing noise that it makes is basically exactly the same as the noise I am experiencing.
It happens when I'm going 70mph in high winds or over 80mph without high winds. And when it happens it's constant.
I talked to the dealership and they told me it's fine... mostly because it happens randomly and it's hard to replicate unless you go 90 it always happens but they obviously aren't going to test drive my car going 90mph to find the noise.
I have a noise that has been driving me crazy for a week now. After some investigation I have discounted a few things. To sum up the noise, it seems to be coming from under the vehicle, maybe the passenger rear. It sounds kinda like a jack hammer and it is loud. People on the street can hear it well! There is no consistency in it. I do not here it standing still and it only appears when I am driving. The speed does not matter.
While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.
Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.
When you turn the interior ac temperature from cool to warm there is a loud knocking noise coming from under the dash. I am new to working on explorers but it seem like its coming from the black box nearest the firewall above the transmission tunnel. When you turn it to cold the noise almost completely goes away. The noise gets even louder when you mess with the selector for "max ac" "head and feet" "feet" etc.
View 2 RepliesThe car is under 25k miles. I have owned for less then 2 years. Recently, I notice a noise coming from the rear every time backing out the drive way. The sounds louder in the winter**. I have gone to 3 different dealers and non of them offered a remedy. Some say they cant reduplicate the issue so I scheduled a test drive with a tech. Was able to duplicate the issue, however the tech says its normal ( pad shift over time) and told me a lot of the newer carmy has the issue. I'm exhausted from going dealer to dealer and no remedy issue. They all said the same thing "its normal & there's nothing they can do".
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