Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Lost Power On Interstate
Nov 1, 2010
So am i the only 200,000 miles prius owner on here? I have an 05 toyota prius, purchased with 44 miles on it. I now have 218k miles. All I've replaced was an o2 sensor and a few other minor things. But it died last thursday, had it towed to my house, still don't know the extent of the issues. I had the following codes P1116, P1121, P3193. I was driving on the interstate and all the warning lights came on and i lost power as i got over. Jumps would only allow me to turn my lights on and dashboard, but the engine doesn't start.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
View 3 Replies
My 05 prius (105k) has been running great. Today I was driving up a mountain, approx 70 mph with ac full blast, when all of a sudden I lost all power. The triangle of death came on.
I immediately stopped the car, tried resetting it and no change. I got it towed. Before the tow, the headlights were on and I asked the guy to turn them off twice as I knew the engine might still be on.
Anyways, it got towed approx 4 miles to my house, and the vehicle was on.
View 19 Replies
I have 2005 Prius with 110k. Yesterday, red triangle and check engine light came on and I lost power while driving...SCARY. Took it by dealership. They called this am and said it needed a new HV-ECU and that would cost $800. The error codes they gave me were P0A78 and P0A94. Anything else I should ask them to look at? I'm wondering if the HV ECU is something I could buy used and install myself? I'm not a mechanic but am comfortable with most DIY projects.
View 10 Replies
Prius Loses Power While Driving on Interstate.
View 19 Replies
OK, the wife had this car lose power on the interstate (only 5 mph) -- said she heard a lot of noise (no good description) and smelled rubber burning. Towed to Honda dealer -- found nothing wrong even after putting 44 miles on it to try to get it hot. My co-worker said she had a similar problem with a Civic --they found nothing on the computer -- happened again, she limped in a 5 mph and they could hear it was the alternator. Alternatively, web research has shown a LOT of problems with the 2004 V6 transmission.
View 1 Replies
My Prius is 07 with 146k in southern California, for two days every morning I took a short trip to a store then when driving back home the prius battery lost bars fast and I lost power with all sorts of warning lights. Then I drive off with no problems for the entire day. I disconnected the aux battery and that reset the Error codes, I checked the inverter pump and works properly, I checked the aux battery and shows 12v when off and 13.9v -14v when on. This happens every morning so I suspect it's the aux battery. 3months ago my dash lights went out and rebooted the car with no problems.
View 5 Replies
199k on my prius. I'm driving 65 mph and bam! All warning lights come on, PROBLEM, comes up on the mfd, and the mfd had a funky little broken cat symbol light in the top left corner.
I lose engine power and coast to a stop. As I'm coasting the speed display stops showing my speed... even though the rest of the gouges are lit on the display. While parked I realize I have very little 12v battery juice....
With a jumper pack on the front terminals I get the cat home. I ser on the display the my hv battery is stuck at one bar.
At home I charge the 12v battery and get the hv battery fully charged by holding the gas down in drive with foot on the brake. My Toyota mechanic told me to do that. All warning lights go away. I leave a jumper pack on the battery in the rear and take for another test drive. Car is better but still sluggish... Try to get it up to 50 mph and bam! again all warning lights return.
So I get the car to toyota dealer and and my guy reads the codes and tells me every ecu is showing codes abs recommends 12v battery replacement. He clears the codes. So I buy a brand new battery and after installing it all warning lights return on test ride. Car won't do over 50 mph and is def still a mess.....
View 12 Replies
Basically, about 3 weeks ago I noticed some problems with my 04 Prius. It has 72k miles on the clock. The exhaust was making a farting sound. I have since diagnosed this as a hole in the back box which I promptly replaced. But the real problem is the power.
When driving in electric mode, the car runs as normal. But when I press down on the gas just a little more to the point where the ICE kicks in, it doesn't give as much power as it used to. For example, in electric mode, cruising at 30mph and achieving 99.9mpg, I'd press the pedal down about half an inch. Where this used to kick the ICE in and show 60mpg+ (with the engine charging the battery and providing power to the wheels), it now shows about 30mpg. When I press the pedal a further half inch, it would normally show 35-45mpg, but now reads 16-25mpg. And when its fully depressed, it used to show 12-16mpg but now barely hits double figures and averages about 6.7mpg. Even on highways when I've achieved 60mph and gently ease off the pedal to maintain speed or really slowly increase, I used to achieve 60-70mpg but now I'd be lucky if it makes it to 40.
I also noticed that it produces considerably less pulling power than it used to. Almost as if the engine is really struggling, even when gently pressing the pedal and accelerating from 30mph upwards. This is having a large effect on my overall fuel consumption. I get so scared that I'm wasting too much fuel that I drive really conservatively now.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2008 Prius with about 95,000 miles. It is bloody cold here. About 4 degrees F when I got up. On the way to work, on the parkway, suddenly the car lost power entirely. Just started to slow down. No reaction when I pressed on the gas pedal. I didn't notice any warning lights. I flipped the gear shift to Drive, and the car accelerated again. About five minutes later, this repeated. For the rest of the trip it was fine, and there were no problems coming home. (Temperatures were still way below freezing in the afternoon when I left work though the car had been sitting in the sun. I don't know if this could be cold-related, but it's never happened before and it hasn't been this cold here for days on end before._
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
View 6 Replies
My 2008 Prius (111,000 miles) had all the panel alarm lights go on and lost power while I was driving on the freeway. After turning off the vehicle and letting it “rest” for 10 minutes, it restarted with only the red triangle alert light remaining on and was able to drive to my dealer service (about 40 miles) with no incident. The diagnostic code indicates that the inverter has failed, but the technicians are not able to confirm that this is the problem, since the system is now running. I was able to drive it home with no problems or warning lights. As this is a $4,000 part, I would like to know if this is a likely, or even possible, scenario for an inverter failing, or could it be another problem? Note: 3 months ago the auxiliary battery was replaced following the same circumstances.
View 13 Replies
I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
View 9 Replies
My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
View 2 Replies
I have lost drive and overdrive. I have first and second and when I let off the gas pedal everything seems normal. When I am in drive with overdrive switched off and keep a steady speed it doesn't shift into drive. When I let off the gas in drive the tach goes to 1k and its like I'm in neutral. If I switch OD on it's like neutral and the engine revs. I have pulled the pan and valve body and do not see any metal.
OD snap ring is intact. Fluid looks good with no burnt smell...I'm thinking shifting solenoids but have not tested them yet. There is no grinding noise at all and no slipping in first and second gears. It threw cam sensors codes and I replaced both but I think that was from the neutral condition and test drove before dropping the pans and still no shifting to drive or OD. No transmission codes...
View 7 Replies
So, the latest problem with the Phaeton is EITHER 'Engine workshop fault' or 'Exhaust workshop fault'. The latter has been on for a few days, however yesterday was accompanied by a flashing coil light and the car lost almost all power.
So I took it to a diesel specialist as the VW Dealers around here are just awful, and using a Delphi system he read a single fault code which pointed to the DPF pressure. He suggested a regeneration, however there was no option to do this.
When I start the vehicle the warning lights remain off for a few seconds and the car drives normally, then on they come (either Engine or Exhaust workshop fault, always now accompanied by the dreaded flashing coil).
I took it out this evening and maintained 3000RPM or above for about 30minutes (with the odd stop for traffic lights) but this hasn't made any difference.
Is it worth just sitting on the drive with it revving at 4000 or so as with a regeneration? I understand that also involved increased diesel into the exhausts though.
View 10 Replies
My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
View 4 Replies
I have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
View 11 Replies
So I was driving to work and the truck lost throttle response. There was very little of it! Came to a stop then it didn't barely want to move, pulled over then it died on me! No clue what to look at! 2005 6.0 232k miles
View 14 Replies
I have a 2005 F250 with 186K miles. I do minor work on my vehicles but have little experience working on my diesel. I was accelerating when I heard a pop and a hiss similar to disconnecting an air hose from an air compressor. Total loss of turbo power. No turbo reading on the turbo gauge on dash. No loss of oil. No smoke. Oil and coolant look fine. Took off turbo and everything appeared to operate like it should (according to YouTube videos). Inspected lines and rubber boots.
Rubber has some cracks but not certain if they are holes. How small/large of a hole would cause total loss? Was originally scared to take it to a shop knowing they could name their price. Not opposed to taking it somewhere now knowing the turbo works but obviously would rather save the money. Any tips on troubleshooting? I'm not opposed to proactively replacing parts/sensors as the truck has given me 186k and I plan to keep it as long as possible.
View 8 Replies
I recently replaced my front door speakers in my 2005 RX330. Upon reassembling everything I had the following issues:
1) The front Passenger side window and rear seat windows would not roll down from the driver's side controls. This issue was resolved by going to each individual window control and rolling the window down halfway and then rolling them all the way up and continuing to press on the window control in the "Up" position for an additional 5 seconds or so.
2) My original Lexus key (non-remote) would work for staring the car, but it would no longer work to unlock the doors by inserting it into the Driver's side door lock and moving the key toward the front of the car.
3) In attempting to resolve issue #2, I disconnected the Car battery for a couple of hours and reconnected it, which leads me to my big problem(s). Now none of my windows will roll down from ANY window control (including the front door driver's window). In addition, the doors can only be locked/unlocked from the Lexus Key Remote or from the front Passenger door lock control.
I have checked all fuses that I could get to (under the hood and under the drivers side dash panel) but I still cannot get the windows or door locks to function normally. I could not get to one big blue fuse under the dash panel right next to the fusebox that I believe is related to the power windows. I am not sure if it also fuses the sunroof, which DOES function. I pulled the Negative Battery cable off a second time and did another reset but to no avail.
View 5 Replies
