Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Key Fob Stopped Working For Remote Locking / Unlocking
Aug 7, 2012
I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
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VW New Beetle convertible 2004 ... Unlocking and locking my car via the remote largely stopped working (with my main key and the spare). I took the car to the repair shop, and after driving 20 min, the remote worked fine. They checked the computer to see if failures had registered (they had) and told me I'd likely have to replace the part in the door (pricey!) if the problem persisted. It has. The remote won't work at all, and then after I drive the car for a while, it works (as if it is somehow being recharged by driving.) I phoned my repair guy again, and he's mystified, cannot explain how driving for a period of time makes the key remote work.
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My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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My wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I have a 2012 XLE that I bought brand new in 2012 and twice this week I had locking/unlocking problems.
The first one was mid-week. I pressed the unlock button on the fob and the car beeped multiple times instead of a standard 2 beeps. I heard the locks unlock but could not open the driver's door. It felt as if the lock was stuck. I even tried the mechanical key that's hidden inside the fob and the same result. I then opened the passenger door and got in and moved the lock back and forth a few times and then everything worked fine.
Earlier this morning, I had the opposite problem. I could not lock the car using the fob. Had to do it manually like back in the day.
Can the battery or contacts in the fob be slowly going out? Should I start using my other fob? Should I have the dealership look into it?
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I had a strange issue arise today. used the car this morning and all was well. Came home this afternoon and clicked the remote fob to unlock the car and..... nothing. no indicator flash and the central locks didnt work.
thought the battery was gone in the fob so went inside and got the spare fob and tried that. clicked that and again nothing.
replaced the battery with a new cr2032 battery and nothing, checked the 12v battery via cars diagnostics and a healthy 12.6 and 14.1 outputs. central locking works via the button on the car door. so fuses, motors etc are ok.
went online and saw the fob reprogram threads. been spending the last 7 hours trying to reprogram the fobs. searching the net and trying any 'new' or different methods suggested.
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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I have the OEM remote starter. All of a sudden it stopped working. I hit the lock button 3 times like I always did. I get the confirmation tone but it does not do anything after that.
How I can fix it?
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I have a 2005 V8 and in getting my latest service, a bunch of recalls were completed on the vehicle which seemed to screw up the locking/unlocking of the doors. In the past, the doors unlocked without having to hit any of the buttons on the key fob, but now, I get a 'chirp' from the car when I lock it, and have to click the unlock button once for the front doors and twice for the back doors. Is there anyway to revert back to the old way where just having the key close to the door unlocked it?
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I have a 2004 with 210,000 miles. I have noticed recently that my fob is not locking / unlocking my car unless I'm almost right on top of it, even with a clear sight of the car. Didn't use to be that way. I changed the battery and not much improvement.
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i have a 2005 prius got it 2 years ago when it hade 120,000 miles now has 211,000 runs good but last week on my driver side the tail light and low beam light stopped working at the same time the high beam works fine what could it be?
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the problem is, i was listening to music in my prius 05 setting the equalizer. After i got my work done, i pulled the key and closed the door. when i was pressing the lock button in my remote key, it wasnt working. Then i went inside my car and even the locks and other things werent working.. nothing was working eventually.
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe , the doors keep locking and unlocking. The abs and brake lights come on and stay on. When the doors act up the engine light comes on . The best is it'll stall out. Doesn't happen every time , but 99%
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