Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - Heat Only Works When Engine Not Running
Jan 21, 2016
I recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Prius and the AC seems to work when the car is not warmed up. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the vehicle it does not seem to want to blow cold air. Obviously it works better in the morning then the afternoon but the AC seems to work intermittently. This may be electrical problem?
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We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
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I recently picked up a 2005 Prius with 129k miles that seems to be in gFor any codes.
With most cars this would usually point to a faulty thermostat but I'm not sure on a Prius. I checked the coolant level and it's fine. I don't hear any gurgling in the dash so I'm guessing there's no air in the system.
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5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
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My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
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I've had the car for 130k/2 yrs, and been very happy with it. Will definitely buy another. That said, I'm puzzled. Yesterday and today, after it had run for 10-20 minutes at surface-street speeds (so was warmed up), I got stuck at a lengthy traffic light and noticed a distinct smell of gasoline - not other cars' exhaust, but a fuel smell coming in on the blown air in the cabin. I have done no mechanical work on the car, or spilled gas into the glove box.
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My GX had developed yet another issue. To start off my car has an exhaust leak presumably at the head. Thats what i been told. This condition would throw a P0430 code ( catalyst system efficiency below ) once or twice a week, which id just erase with my plug in tool. Im not sure if the new developed issue is related to it, but now the engine is running rough especially noticeable between 1000-2300 rpm. Feels like misfire. When driving i can feel a drone or a frequent shake if rpms are in that range or when unloading the motor and rpms are dropping. No codes! Timing belt was changed at 90k miles car has 150k now. Not sure if its due for another one now and this can be the cause.
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First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
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Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
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Either running A/C or heat.. air only blows on the '2' and '4' setting.. so I have middle of the road or WOT when it comes to the amount of air. On the '1' setting nothing comes out and '3' setting is the exact same at the '2' setting. What is going on with this.
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05 Prius steering wheel Air Recirc button doesn't work.
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After driving 20 min at 40 mph, I came to a traffic stop. The engine was still running, the battery was at 75% full, outside temp 80, A/C set at 75. I noticed the MDF showed no engine running at all. But I can feel a little vibration, which tells me that the engine speed was very low, and not constant, at/below idle speed.
When I finally get home and park the car, the battery was green! Basically the engine kept running even for the last 5 min when I drove at 30 mph.
Does that indicate something wrong?
My car is a 2004 at 222K miles. 12V Battery changed 3 years ago, PCV, spark plugs changed 6 month ago. I've noticed sometime that HV battery is weaker than before, easier to get high engine speed when picking up at 50 mph +.
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I have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
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We were driving on mt highway and ran over rock. Had the undercarriage checked immediately and mechanic spotted the mark inches from transmission but said all was fine. Last evening the engine began to run very rough and loud particularly when not accelerating; true even when idling/parked. Also noticing a small rattle that is infrequent and disassociated with any consistent pattern. We are in Taos Ski valley at about 8k elevation. Still have two weeks of vacation driving ahead of us.
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I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
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why the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
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2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
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Have no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
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I have a 2003 Camry XLE (4 cyl). The heat will only work when the A/C is on. If A/C is off, air will blow from the vents, but it is not hot. What part needs to be fixed/replaced?
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So after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
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