When I'm going up hill or any time I'm at high RPM's, a flicking (not clicking) noise starts. Additional revving of engine. At first, I thought it was the AC blower motor. It's def not that though.
View 3 RepliesI tried to start my 2005 Prius this morning and a high pitched noise started (the same noise that happens when you hit the power button without having your foot on the brake). The emergency light was locked on as well as a message on the display screen about setting the emergency brake. This has happened one other time an after about two minutes the noise stopped, and I was able to start the car. This time the noise and lock remained for about 20 minutes until we disconnected the battery in the back. We re-attached the battery after we removed the ignition key and after a few moments all the power seemed to be gone. The fob doesn't work at all and the electronic lights and dash flickered and faded out. Our gut instinct is that the battery needs to be replaced. Was it the 12V battery?
View 5 RepliesMy hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 5 RepliesHad a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
My 05 rpms rise on one road in only one place and no where else. I am going down hill coasting (in drive) and pass over road damage (blacktop St RT 131 Ohio) which sways my car to the left and then imed. back to the right. This then happens one more time within 35 feet. rpms usually go up but does not make the car speed up. on1/24/11 on same hill a change occurred. Pass over "hump" again (always downhill) coasting or braking and rpms went way up . again, the cars speed in NOT changed. Toyota dealer wants me to come in. Wants to duplicate rpm revving. Only does it on ST. RT. 131 hill so I told them they can not just make it happen. No codes showed on Autozone's hand held computer checking device.
View 14 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
I've decide to replace the engine in a 2005 Prius. For whatever reason it went bad around 110,000 miles. It was making some noise and then went all at once. I don't know the complete maintenance history of the car, but I know it was pretty regular. I also know the car was driven mainly highway miles and on A LOT of dirt roads. So, the oil may have needed more frequent oil changes.
View 19 RepliesMy 2005 Prius sounds louder to me than normal. The car has 117,000 miles on it and is in great condition. Anyways I can hear, maybe, on the gas engine what sounds like a bad water pump or tension pulley, not sure though? I checked the water pump area and there is no visible signs of a leak or dried pink coolant. If the water pump is indeed bad what can I expect at the Toyota dealership cost wise?
View 18 RepliesI have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
View 3 RepliesHow the radiator fan goes into high speed? My 2006 Prius A/C works great as long as I am moving. But when stopped in traffic or at a light, the radiator fan does not go into high speed. So the A/C shuts off until I can get cool air back through the condenser.
I replaced the two fan relays, and when I do the fans run into high speed for a moment, then back to slow speed. Is there a temperature sending unit in the Prius I can replace?
Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
View 4 RepliesThose of you w/the "sport exhaust" on later 04's and 05's, at 80- MPH ... I get an engine exhaust resonance that varies with throttle. On throttle bad whine, off throttle no issue. Go 75 it's ok. Go 85 it's ok. My dealer hasn't heard of this. Not sure what can be done but on a long trip the drone will drive you nuts.
View 2 RepliesIt looks like, I have the problem with my 2009 Prius, but i was wondering : don't you need any purge of the cooling system after this work is done ? Is there any chance that some air might come into the cooling system during the "clamp" session?
View 2 RepliesI literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
I own a 2007 Prius Touring w/120kish miles. We are currently experiencing a huge booming resonance at idle and low RPMs. The noise isn't subtle, almost sounds like we're in a Huey with the doors open. Here's what I believe I know:
- No DTC's are being thrown
- ICE seems as smooth as ever
- No apparent changes in fuel economy
- Plugs were replaced 40k ago and coil ignitors are original--not running rough or missing though
- Visual inspection of exhaust shows no leaks or contact with body
- Motor mounts pass the test I looked up [in drive/reverse, depress brake, watch unusual engine displacement]
- Noise is not vehicle speed related, only engine speed coupled--probably between 1K and 1.8k rpm
I'm sure I'm leaving something out but aside from messing with the coils or plugs I've looked at everything I can think of. I haven;t gone to the dealer yet. Lot's of reading searching have only revealed CV issues.
I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
I've got an '04 Pkg IX with about 68k miles on it.
I've noticed that at speeds of greater than 60mph there is a distinct ticking noise (like the sound a bicycle makes when you turn the wheel "tick tick tick"). The noise is coming from the front end, sounds like near the passenger area.
The minute you drop down to speeds of around 50 or less it goes away.
I'm probably going to have to take it in to the dealer since I've already had an indy look at it.
Motor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
With only 356k miles on my 06, I'm now getting a sudden drop/loss of power at high RPM. At about 80mph on flat land (or about 60mph up hill) if I try to accelerate the power drops off as a fluttering sound starts (not engine knock). The fluttering sounds like 6 inches of celophane tape flapping in the wind at highway speeds.
I just cleaned my K&N air filter, but the plugs, injectors and fuel pump are original. I ran 1 can of injector cleaner (SeaFoam from O'Reilly) with little to no improvement. I'm guessing it's the fuel pump/pressure, since it runs fine at lower RPM, with no loss of mpg or power (still 50mpg average). I know the fuel pump is in the tank ($400 in parts alone). I'll see if I can measure the rail pressure with Torque and my CANBUS scanner.
I took my 2008, 56k in for a new battery after my car sat outside in negative degree temps for a few days. After doing that repair, the dealer recommended a new serpentine belt. Ever since that service appointment, the car is making a high-pitched "woo-wooo" noise during acceleration. It's definitely a noise I've never heard before. I took it back to the dealer two days later; he had the service guy drive it and they both claim the noise is normal and just due to the cold. Is it the belt? Is it the cold? Am I losing my mind?
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