Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - CEL Started Blinking And Engine Shaking / Knocking
Sep 26, 2015
Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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I was driving my f150 going down the highway. Cruise set at 110kmh. All of a sudden truck started shaking And sounded horrible. Shut off the cruise. Floored it.it misses fired like no tomorrow and no power, looked down check engine light was flashing. Then all of a sudden everything normal. Now its intermediate and light solid on. So I thought I will just I will hook up the code reader. And NOTHING it didn't turn On. No beep nothing. Tried 2 readers no connection. Trucks a 2005 ford f150 fx4 5.4 217600km on the clock
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After starting my Prius the engine was knocking and shaking. After running the engine for 30 - 45 seconds it operated normally. The car is always parked in our garage and the outside temperature was approx 32 degrees or a few colder. I have 30750 miles on the car.
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I just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem.
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I was driving the other day, and all of a sudden it started with this horrible knocking sound. I have never heard the sound before. I remember back in the day, with a 67 buick rivera, that if the oil got low, the engine would knock, and this kind of sounded the same, but more high pitched and clicky. I checked the oil first thing and there is plenty in there - in fact, I had just checked and put oil in it about two weeks before.
I have not always kept up with the oil changes, and sometimes the oil level was pretty low. My sons tell me that the sound seems to be coming from the top of the engine, and it's probably toast, a rod knock. I parked it, and figured i will get it looked at in a few months, when I'm better able to pay for diagnostics.
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I bought a second hand 2005 prius (gen II) at 125k km. Soon after I got the car I got p0402 and p0505. After clearing the errors, I got back only p0420.
About a month later, my car started randomly shaking both when accelerating and at idle. This happened 2 or 3 times in the span of 2 weeks. The CEL and traction control light started flashing. I stopped the car and started again like absolutely nothing happened 10 seconds ago. (This time I got only p0301.)
Yesterday, the situation with the shaking was horrible and I got p0301. Naturally, average fuel usage went up a lot. Even at idle on the parking lot, I turn on the aircon so the engine would start - the feeling is like the car is going to collapse any second.
I have recently used a new gas station, so I thought possibly bad fuel. However, if it was bad fuel, i should have gotten all misfire mistakes, right (p0300~p0304)?
So if I am getting only p0301, the problem should be either the spark plug, injection coil, fuel injector etc. for cylinder 1. My car is currently at the mechanic's place, so all of the above are being checked as we speak.
However, what I am worried about is that this shaking / lights flashing drama is happening at random. If it was any of the above, shouldn't is just happen all the time? When I went to the mechanic yesterday, I barely made it there. He was busy, I waited for 20 minutes, then he wanted me to drive the car for a bit to see the problem. This time the car was working like a brand new car. Absolutely nothing happened. He probably thought I was crazy.
So yeah, he will closely inspect spark plugs, injection coils, fuel injectors etc. If all of them are fine, where should we look next? Head gasket leak perhaps?
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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I have an 05 f150 5.4 v8 super crew cab and I bought it for 3000 because of a cracked block. I bought a re-manufactured engine and installed it and now i have a knocking that wont go away. After I started it up it sounded beautiful for about 10 minutes and then i had a knocking start up. I have put about 30 miles on the new engine and still have the knocking. I let it sit over night and I started it up and there was no knocking so i drove about 3 miles to the gas station and by the time I got there the knocking was back. it runs fine no other issues but why do I have this knocking with a new engine.
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I have an Avalon 2009 with the TMPS indicator blinking for 30 seconds when the car is started and won't go off.
I think this might indicate an issue with the sensor? How do I know which one and how to replace it?
Also, I cannot release the trunk from the button in the car (by my knee) or the trunk release button from the remote.
Does the TMPS light blinking and staying on has anything to do with that?
In the past, when I had a rear signal bulb went out, I couldn't scroll down my window either. Once I replaced it, I was able to.
I wonder if the trunk being locked from automatic release methods is the result of the TMPS light being on.
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I bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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Stopped in the dealer to look at a new Prius. Already have a 05 so I sold on the vehicle but was told some things have changed so I should drive it. I hit the power button and the engine proceeded to make a terrible noise like metal hitting plastic. So I shut it down we popped the hood and restarted, the engine was bucking side to side and finally quit down to a normal.
Granted it was cold (22 degrees) and I don't know when the vehicle was last run. They only have 2010 on the lot, I was looking for a II or III and a nice color (tired of silver and don't want white or black) and this was a red III, only one in the lot and the one they wanted to sell me. Not sure I want this one.
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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So after a decent drive when I get to a redlight / stop sign / etc the truck will idle rough and shake but giving it a little bit of gas (1k RPM) seems to smooth it out however it doesn't throw any codes or the CEL. The truck is a 2008 F150 with the 5.4 and 90k miles.
I've searched quite a bit on this issue and I can't seem to find any real fixes other than swap parts out until something works and I've heard everything from filters to cam phasers or low oil pressure (I will be taking it to the mechanic to check the oil pressure)
so far I've:
Replaced the air and fuel filters
Changed the oil and oil filter (synthetic and OEM filter)
cleaned the MAF and cleaned the throttle body
also is 2008 equipped with an IAC Valve because I've read that it wasn't and I can't seem to find the IAC if it is.
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on my prius c the fuel indicator started blinking on the last bar on the screen so i went to gas station to fill up. still the bar blinking but, driving after 1km makes the blink off and the bar goes up. And some times the fuel bar just goes down and goes up. What is the reason, why it happens?
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I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
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I was reading about the blinking 4x4 light. I am having a problem with the 4x4high being on and my ABS light is on also I got the brakes fixed but light is still on and yesterday when it was raining the 4x4hi started blinking don't know y also I have to get 2 upper ball joints don't know if that is y when sometimes I turn the car kind of sounds like the tire is rubbing on something and it kind of jerks. I don't want to have to spend a lot of money on things that aren't wrong.
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