Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - AC Started Blowing Warm Air
Jun 21, 2015
I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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My air conditioning constantly blows out warm air - even if I set it to the lowest temperature ("LO").
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A few weeks ago I took my 2004 Prius into the dealer to get an AC diagnostics. At that time it was hardly working just blowing warm air. It did seem to be a bit colder tho when the car was in motion. With that visit I was told that there is a leak in my AC system and they recharged it and added a dye, to determine where the leak was coming from. I was told to use the AC as much as possible from then till my follow up appointment.
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My wifes car AC just started blowing warm. I figured it was getting a little low on refrigerant. So I went and bought a can with the gauge on top, and I connected it and it was reading half way into the red zone....way overcharged. But nobody has put any in the system since we bought the car over a year ago. The AC has been great for all this time. So how can it be blowing warm and be overcharged that much without overheating the cars engine ? The clutch is coming on with the compressor?
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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Just the other day my A/C had started to blow hot air, so I looked online and was told to try and re-charge it by a few people so I went and bought a can of that r-134a recharge and as it was on the low port the gauge was not reading like any of the guides I saw, as it did not stay at just one # it would go from 25 then back up to 40+ then slowly back down and just kept going up and down, I am assuming as the compressor was kicking on.
So I did not charge it at all because the PSI said to be in my car at the temp was 45 and if it was doing this but going 25-40 and back I did not want to over fill it.
So then this morning after doing that last night my engine light comes on, but I was told that the a/c will not effect this but I had it checked and I got an error code (P2195) "lack of heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 H02S11 switch sensor indicates lean" with a few causes that may be the reason.
Should I go ahead and charge the a/c? will this cel code have anything to do with the a/c? and also why was the gauge changing like that and not at one steady number? Could it be because the car is running hot and maybe I need to check the anti freeze/coolant?
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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The air on the driver side in my 2007 Avalon blows out warm and on the driver side it is slightly cool but not cold.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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I have a 05 Avalon XLS and I've just discovered an issue with my climate control. It's that time of year that things are warming up so we started using A/C and found that driver's side vents are blowing warm air while passenger side vents are blowing cold. I've tried varied temps and dual mode on and off as well as auto and manual control. Nothing makes a difference. I suspect some sort of thermostat for the driver's side, but I really have no clue.
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I have a 2005 Yukon XL. In Oct 2010, my front A/C started blowing hot air even though it was set to cold. Nothing has happened since then, except that about a month ago, the A/C in the front stopped working but the A/C in the back still works great. The one in the front works when it wants to (once or twice in a week) and when it does, there is cold air coming out of it. We live in FL so it is getting pretty hot to not have A/C and we are going on vacation soon. What can be causing my A/C to work like this?
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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2005 santa fe a/c not working. Started out barely blowing out cool air. it was cool but we were still hot in car... kept adding freon but it barely worked. One day we heard a strange winding noise and have had no a/c at all since then. Don't want to buy a whole new compressor if it could just be a switch or something.. I see there are so many a/c parts. Is there any way to tell if we need a new compressor ?
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Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
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I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
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Alright, so we had an unfortunate run-in with a parking space and I ripped the front under-tray off, not sure what it's actually called. I still have it, the eyes are just ripped out.
But that's not my main issue. The main issue is that the A/C only blows hot now. I know you can sometimes kill a condenser, because road debris will puncture it, but how do you know for sure what's wrong? I'm good with my hands and not afraid to take my car apart, I'm just wanting to be sure before I go ordering parts. I have the relevant sections of the repair manual, but if it's the ES18 compressor or something, how would I know? And is there any way to know without taking the bumper off?
I'll also need a source for ND OIL 11..
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