Prius (2004-09) :: 2005 - AC Started Blowing Less, Eventually Nothing
Sep 2, 2015
I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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I have a 2005 Yukon XL. In Oct 2010, my front A/C started blowing hot air even though it was set to cold. Nothing has happened since then, except that about a month ago, the A/C in the front stopped working but the A/C in the back still works great. The one in the front works when it wants to (once or twice in a week) and when it does, there is cold air coming out of it. We live in FL so it is getting pretty hot to not have A/C and we are going on vacation soon. What can be causing my A/C to work like this?
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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2005 santa fe a/c not working. Started out barely blowing out cool air. it was cool but we were still hot in car... kept adding freon but it barely worked. One day we heard a strange winding noise and have had no a/c at all since then. Don't want to buy a whole new compressor if it could just be a switch or something.. I see there are so many a/c parts. Is there any way to tell if we need a new compressor ?
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Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
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I have a 2004 that I purchased in Jan '05 with just over 10K miles on it, after taking out a large deer with my previous Prius (90k miles on that one). I'm now at 271k and my first non-maintenance repair issue has occurred. My A/C was working fine one day, then nothing the next. Hot air, and nothing else. Had my regular service place (not dealer) check it during my regular oil change. Found the refrigerant was out, and did a little digging. They suspected a bad compressor, and referred me to the dealer. Upon recommendation from a friend, had another non-dealer check it the next day ( Wow, no Freon, and we can't locate the leak!). So I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer.
Not sure I want to put that much into fixing the a/c in a car this old/this many miles. I'm pretty handy with fixing things, but not this. And not a lot of non-dealer options in my area who will work on hybrids.
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Alright, so we had an unfortunate run-in with a parking space and I ripped the front under-tray off, not sure what it's actually called. I still have it, the eyes are just ripped out.
But that's not my main issue. The main issue is that the A/C only blows hot now. I know you can sometimes kill a condenser, because road debris will puncture it, but how do you know for sure what's wrong? I'm good with my hands and not afraid to take my car apart, I'm just wanting to be sure before I go ordering parts. I have the relevant sections of the repair manual, but if it's the ES18 compressor or something, how would I know? And is there any way to know without taking the bumper off?
I'll also need a source for ND OIL 11..
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I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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I was driving my f150 going down the highway. Cruise set at 110kmh. All of a sudden truck started shaking And sounded horrible. Shut off the cruise. Floored it.it misses fired like no tomorrow and no power, looked down check engine light was flashing. Then all of a sudden everything normal. Now its intermediate and light solid on. So I thought I will just I will hook up the code reader. And NOTHING it didn't turn On. No beep nothing. Tried 2 readers no connection. Trucks a 2005 ford f150 fx4 5.4 217600km on the clock
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Stopped in the dealer to look at a new Prius. Already have a 05 so I sold on the vehicle but was told some things have changed so I should drive it. I hit the power button and the engine proceeded to make a terrible noise like metal hitting plastic. So I shut it down we popped the hood and restarted, the engine was bucking side to side and finally quit down to a normal.
Granted it was cold (22 degrees) and I don't know when the vehicle was last run. They only have 2010 on the lot, I was looking for a II or III and a nice color (tired of silver and don't want white or black) and this was a red III, only one in the lot and the one they wanted to sell me. Not sure I want this one.
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'05 Gx470 w/ 93k mi. Time for new parts for all orig. frt. suspension? Started having "Clunking" up frt. Assume time for new shocks all around. Also, grease from upper ball joints half-way down steering knuckle arm, so probably dry? Thinking of replacing everything up frt. incl. hub bearings while have all apart and be done w/ it. Notice in FSM that this means replacing both upper and lower control arms that come w/ bushings and ball joints installed. Parts very pricey even w/ discounts ( 27% at myLparts), somewhere around $3,500 +/-, incl. rr. shocks. Rather cry once and hopefully get get another 90K +/- mi. w/o problems. I've always gone w/ OEM parts in past and probably paid the price, but since I'm doing all the work, hopefully evens out in long run.
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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The horn in my car started to sound like if it was going to catch a cold then it stopped sounding, however if I press the panic button in the keychain it does sound perfect. Where and what should I look for. Is it a relay, the spring contact on the steering wheel?
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What it means when you turn the temperature way down, it'll eventually display LOW? What does it do?
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