Prius (2004-09) :: 12V Battery Fluctuations - Is It Normal
Jul 31, 2013
My ScanGauge II is saying my Optima Yellow Top while in READY mode cruising down the highway is 13.4V. When I came to a stop and put the vehicle in park, it switched to 14.0V. Out of curiosity I put it in drive and it went back down to 13.4V.
Yesterday while driving on the highway for about 30 minutes it read 14V the entire trip. What's going on? Normal?
Yesterday I also had my battery tested directly on the battery at Advance Auto Parts with a computer battery tester certified for AGM batteries. It tested at 12.75V exactly, which is normal.
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Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
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Long time since I have posted anything here, but I noticed the fan running far more than normal here. Now the outside temp was fairly warm, but the most recent day I noticed it, the temps were only around 80-85 degrees out.
I usually don't run the AC in my car unless it is terribly hot out - so when I hear a fan running it stands out to me. It is very obvious that it is coming from the rear seat vent area.
The temps here have taken a dip (highs tomorrow are only about 70-75F), so I will keep an ear out for it to continue. Is this something to be concerned about? It is a 2010 Prius IV with about 32k miles...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 4wd. It has started fluctuating the rpm's and is shifting erratically. I have seen on here that it is possibly the TPS. Does the same in manual or auto.
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I have a 2015 PRIUS C for 3+ months now (used to drive a 2012 PRIUS) . Approx 3K+ miles traveled already to date. Anyway, I noticed on 2 occurrence that my MPG on the odometer view has had a huge reading fluctuation. Prior to the first occurrence, my Travel A was somewhere around 46MPG and it closely matched the Odometer view reading. Then I noticed it go down to 33MPG while Travel A is still at 46MPG, both had the same miles traveled. I let it go and when I checked my MPG on the Odometer last week, it was back to normal.
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Is it normal for the engine to turn on for about a minute when you first start it? Mine always does it, seems normal, but just wanted to check and also find out why. I assume it has to power a couple electrical things in the car?
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2 days ago I noticed a large puddle on the driveway when I left for work, but I thought it was just condensation from my A/C. That afternoon- 84 degrees outside- my A/C was blowing warmer than normal, even at Max Cold, so then I thought it might have been freon on the driveway and that I'd need to get checked for a leak and replace the freon. But the car wasn't overheated and the next day (in the mid-80s), the A/C worked normally in the morning and afternoon...
Then, this afternoon- 90 degrees outside- it wouldn't work at all. I've eliminated the compressor as the issue (turned on my car, let it go through its start-up cycles, then turned the A/C on high and Max Cold, popped the hood and listened for the buzzing)- it continuously whirs and responds to the changes I make on the A/C settings.
I think the blower motor died, since no air flows at any of the speeds from any of the air vents though I can hear the A/C is on... So my question(s) for you all... does it sound like I'm on the right track? Is there another potential problem it could be that I should be aware of before I take it in to the dealer for a diagnosis? Like a fuse I need to check? Btw, I have a 2007 with 141K miles on it...
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
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During the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
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for the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
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I took my car to the car wash and they seemed to take longer to vacuum/wash it and while driving it away, I noticed something was off. It seems like the engine is louder than normal. Before when starting the car, it would take 30 seconds to a minute before the battery/engine would come on. Then while accelerating to about 25-35 mph, then the engine would come into gear. When going on the freeway, if accelerating at a quick speed it would sound really loud. Now, it seems like instead of silent, quiet, a little louder, louder and loudest - it's moved to the next level. When starting the car, the engine starts right away and when driving away (at less than 25 mph), the engine sound like I am on the freeway and when I'm on the freeway it sound like I'm trying to gun the engine. I don't know what it could be.
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I am having heat issues with my 2004 Prius. Recently it has been difficult for the defroster to keep the windshield clear and the heat output is clearly not normal. It's chilly here in Vermont so having heater is important. I have been doing some reading in this forum and have gained some insight into how the heating system works.
One observation I notice is that the radiator does not seem to get hot at all. If I open the cap on clear overfill tank under the hood it appears to be full. In fact the coolant seems to be circulating through this tank. If I dunk my finger into the fluid it is only warm. There is a warning about not opening when hot but it is not hot so I can open it.
As I sit in the car I can hear liquid circulating through in the dash board area. When I change heater setting to enable different vents and defrost each change produces sounds that would make me believe the mechanical things are working ok. It's just not very warm.
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"Yellow exclamation point in brackets is on. Squiggly line below mark. What does this mean?" I did some research and everyone says tire pressure, yet all my tires are the right pressure... SO could it mean something else? I would look at the owners manual, but unfortunately don't have it...
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The car would rev high to 3k rpms for around 3 seconds on start ups. After I did a timing belt job the car has been jumping 2k to 3.5k back down to 3k, etc sometimes settling at 1.5k. Each time it jumps it stays there for about three seconds. This mainly happens when I am stopped and foot off the throttle, but still does it when it drives, but it is not noticed as much since there is a load under the engine.
Couple of notes:
I made dam sure the timing was correct and belt teeth were installed properly, checked it about 10 times before buttoning everything up. Only thing I can think of is that the belt is too tight but I don't see that causing this problem.
I did clean the pcv valve and a few electrical connections which solved the problem short term, but has come back 3-4 weeks later.
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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I have a terrible car. Honda Civic 2002 that runs alright but quakes and shudders after I start it. It also revs up for no reason at all whilst I drive around. Anyway two machanics have told me I have a headgasket leak that will cost a lot of money to fix. Two others have told me I don't or that it is so minor it needs not be messed with. The last one I saw decided I had a bad Coolant Sensor for the Computer.
I guess there is one for the computer and one, um, not for the computer. I bought both sensors and he changed them Friday. Today I took the car out and three times while I was out, my temp gauge shot up into the red hovered for a few minutes and sank back down. It has never done this before. Why this might be happening now? I am really sick of taking my car in and getting a thousand different stories, paying to fix things that are not wrong with it and watching it die a slow death.
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So it's been REALLY cold here in MA. for the first time this winter. I've noticed that once my engine warms up to temp (160), the needle drops back down to about 140-150 idling at a stoplight, and takes a while to get back up to temp. Maybe this is normal for the diesel? I've just never noticed this in any of my previous VW gassers. Coolant level is fine, engine runs fine, so maybe its just the brutal cold weather??
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