Prius (2001-03) :: Would Not Start - Codes P3191 And P3101


Jan 29, 2015

My parents' Gen 1 2003 Prius, at 99,030 miles, wouldn't start, and I thought I'd share the problem description and the fix that worked for me, for others who see the same symptoms.

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Prius (2001-03) :: Red Triangle Off - Got Codes P0121 / P3190 / P3191 / C1259 / C1213 / P3101?

The red triangle light and the car with the ! Light went off and these are the codes the local shop has found:

- P0121
- P3190
- P3191
- C1259
- C1213
- P3101

The shop I went to in Little Rock would not touch it. Need to put these together and diagnose where to start?

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Prius (Gen 1) :: P3191 / P3101 Error Codes Appeared

2003 Prius. Situation as follows:

Malfunction Indicator Lamp lit on start-up during sub-freezing weather for failure to start (P3191 and P3101 codes loaded). Occurred twice (so far).

Dealer diagnosed as possible fuel pump problem, though fuel pressure nominal and held pressure after engine shut-off.

Independent mechanic (using EG011-03) diagnosed following:

Diagnosis codes: P3191 (engine does not start) and P3101 with information code 205.

Circuit opening relay was fine.

Fuel Pressure was normal (~45 psig) and held after engine shut off.

Coolant temperature - 9 deg C

Engine RPM - 1200

MG1 Torque value - 0

Installed ECU Part Number - 89661-47053, calibration # 14705301, 14705302

EG011-03 decision tree leads to replace Engine Control Module with newer part number.

Took back to dealer, who indicated still possible fuel pump problem (and reluctant to replace ECM).

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Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - No Reverse / Codes P3101 And 12689

My 2001 Prius has 77K. It has done warning lights before and always been a gas cap that was not tightened or a misfire code three times since I bought it last spring. It has been driven very little when I was rear-ended and my Camry was totaled. It coughed a little when I started it, but had no problem driving the first 40 miles. I stopped for about 5 minutes to stretch. When I tried to start it to continue to work, all the warning lights came on and it died. I tightened the gas cap and restarted the car to have it die 2 more times. Third time it stayed on and I was planning on limping two blocks to AutoZone to have the codes read, when it rolled to a stop. No forward, no reverse. By the time the tow arrived, it would go forward. The codes were P3101 and 12689.

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Prius (2010-12) :: Getting Error Codes P0302 And P3191

I leave my car for 2 weeks without driving, and when I start the power, I have check engine light on and I drive to the dealer right away. Mechanic performs diagnostic test for engine misfire no engine miss found. The error code is P0302/P3191. The mechanic told me that I always run the car in very low on fuel, and it causes the 2nd cylinder misfile or not running when the fuel is very low. They suggest me always pump the gas when the fuel indicator has 2 bars left.

My question is that: How come the car cannot run in low fuel, low fuel doesn't mean no fuel, and it can damage the engine/cylinder?

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Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Hybrid System Overheats With Codes P3190 And P3191

Something in my Gen II 2006 Prius is causing a type of overheating condition in the hybrid system. The fault/error codes coming up are P3190 and P3191. If I turn the car off for 30 minutes and restart it, it runs fine for a period of time (but usually not more than a week).

I first noticed the problem a couple of months ago during my 45 mile (mostly highway) commute. While driving on the highway, I noticed that the Prius wouldn't accelerate when I stepped on the gas pedal. A couple of minutes later, my dash warning lights come on and the car started slowing down (no response to the gas pedal at this point). For a minute or so, I was able to change gears (reverse or drive) and move a little in either direction but the transmission stops responding altogether very quickly.

Dash lights that light up

Hybrid system error symbol lit up and I noticed that the hybrid battery charge level was at one purple bar.

The first time it happened, I had my car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. The flatbed tow truck driver (to my surprise) was able to start the Prius and back it into a spot at the dealership. Some of the dash lights were no longer lit.

The dealer couldn't find anything wrong with the car except for the fact that my water pump was leaking. They replaced the water pump, cleared the error codes and drove the car around for about 45 minutes but couldn't reproduce the problem. I drove my car home.

note: this dealership replaced my hybrid battery and 'computer' (I'm sure it has a specific part name - I don't have the info) right before my warranty ran out over a year ago. I didn't have any warning lights lit up on the dash at the time but I told the master mechanic working on my car that it didn't have much power going to the wheels when I put it in reverse (I couldn't back into my driveway). After the hybrid battery and computer were replaced, I had no issues with backing into my driveway.

The same issue happened a week later. I turned the car off for 20-30 minutes, started the car and noticed that the bulk of the dash warning lights turned off so I drove it home. I took it to my local mechanic the following day. He cleaned the intake manifold, changed the spark plugs, cleared the P3190 and P3191 codes indicating that they were generic codes indicating a misfire and said that it was now running fine.

A week later the same thing happened. I did some research and brought the car back to my local mechanic and asked him to change the transmission fluid & to use the Toyota ATF WS fluid. He changed the transmission fluid (and noted that it was dirty), cleared the codes and I brought the car home. I unfortunately didn't get a sample.

We had a power failure that night so I plugged my pond aerator into the cigarette lighter to keep my koi alive and less than 2 hours later I came out to find the pondmaster ap-20 (20 watt) air pump (blows bubbles through 1/2" tubing) wasn't running and my car had shut off with the dash warning lights illuminated. I have run this little aerator for 4 days on a single tank of gas without issues in the past.

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Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Runs Then Stalls / P3191 Code - Oil In Intake Manifold?

Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.

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Prius (Gen 1) :: Triangle On Dash - Code P3191

Is it safe to drive my '02 with the triangle on the dash? I've tried to get rid of it, throttle body cleaned, MAF cleaned, battery seems good (13v, no load). What else can I do to try and get rid of it? BTW, '02 Prius, 183K mi. It runs good, cycles on and off normally (motor to battery, etc.). The code clears it self after sitting about a week w/ occasional starts, then I drive it for about 50-70 miles and the light comes back on...

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Prius (Gen 1) :: Red Triangle Keeps Appearing With P1455, P0420, P3191

I have a 2003 with ~230,000 miles on it. We are the 4th owners, and have owned it for 7 years / 120,000 miles.

7 months ago, in December, I experienced my first red triangle of death. It happened on a warm start, but drove fine. Took it to O'Riley, they used an Innova 3120 to check the codes, and these are the 3 that came back (P1455, P0420, P3191). After starting the car the 4th time, the warnings went away, and all seemed well. It happened again about 3 months ago while on the highway, and again went away after 4 starts. At the time I was not too terribly worried about emissions codes, we live in an area that doesn't require testing, but the 3191 was the more ominous one.

The red triangle came on again two days ago, about 5 minutes after a cold start, and again today, about 5 minutes after a warm start. I do not know what the current codes are, but I will be taking it to a store tomorrow to get them checked. I had an oil change 4 days ago. I checked the intake manifold for any sign of liquid (I saw several posts in RE to the 3191 of that being a possibility), and it is as clean as our '05s. I checked my service history, and didn't have anything done the first two times this happened.

If the same codes persist, I'm assuming the problems could be cheap to almost what the car is worth (~$2,500).

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Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 Engine Starts To Shake, P3191 Appears

I have a Prius 2010, 4 years old with 144.000 km.

The last 3 night we had temp. below freezing point. So every time I started my Prius up at the morning, the engine starts to shake violent, and then automatically shut off the engine with a message on the screen "Check Hybrid System". So after several times I restart the car, it runs normally, still with the message on. The temperature outside was -1 degree Celsius.

So I used my OBD to pick up the codes, which says P3191 - Unknown Error.

What does this error mean at what could cause this problem?

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Cherokee :: 2001 Gremlins No Codes And Won't Start

I have a 2001 cherokee with the 4.0l I6, I have a gremlin or two i think... It all started with the heater blower resistor, then the blower......

It had a intermittent starting issue where it wouldn't start on the first try, but always on the second.... What is that?

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor.... Still starts the same.....

Then the water pump went out last week, replaced it, still leaks....

parked it before christmas so i could fix it yesterday.... NOW IT WONT START.

I just wasted $45 on a Cam position sensor that did not fix the problem. Merry Christmas.

So now, i am back at square one, No start. What next?

btw, no codes after the "hold odometer and turn key" procedure....

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: AWD Cranks But Won't Start - No Codes

I have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.

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Honda - Odyssey :: 2001 - Won't Start On Occasion - No CEL / Codes

I have a well-maintained 2001 Honda Odyssey EX with about 162k miles. It's had all of it's recommended maintenance at the recommended intervals. And until lately all of that maintenance was done at the dealership. Of note, the transmission was replaced by the dealer at around 100k miles. Other than fit-and-finish issues it runs great.

Over the past few months, I've had issues with it starting. The key will turn, everything "lights-up" as it should, I hear the engine crank normally, but it just won't start. I do this 2, 3, 4, 5 times over a few minutes and finally, it starts. When it does start it runs fine. Sometimes this happens several times in a single day. Sometimes it goes for 1-2 weeks without it happening at all. I've tried to make a note of when this occurs to see if there is a pattern. Unfortunately, I've not come across anything obvious. The engine can be cold or hot. Rainy weather, dry weather. (I opened the hood and sprayed it down with the hose, it started no problem at all.) I've paid attention for the "immobilizer" indicators and I don't see that either. No check engine light. No codes.

A friend suggested that when this occurs to sniff for uncombusted fuel in the exhaust -- I did not smell anything. I suppose this suggests that it's a fuel issue and not a spark issue. I've taken it to my trustworthy local mechanic, and they a) couldn't recreate the problem, and b) couldn't find anything wrong. For good measure, they removed and cleaned the throttle body, but that didn't work.

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Misfire Codes On Start Then Runs Fine

Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 5.4L V8 Won't Start - Codes P0401 And P1740

My truck, the aforementioned 01 f150 5.4 has been running fine but has had the codes p0401 and p1740. I know what they both mean I just haven't fixed them yet. Today I went to move my truck and it wouldnt start. It turned over fine and would hit some but wouldn't start. Would the tcc solenoid be the cause of that? Also the reason my egr is throwing is because there is a line that is not connected but I have no clue where it connects to... Where is the best place to get diagrams for the egr system.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - No Codes - Crank But No Start?

I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.

0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump

Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)

fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.

I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,

There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.

The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.

I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.

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Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - Warning Triangle But No Codes

A 2001 Prius is getting a warning triangle. No check engine light, and with my OBDII scanner, it shows there are no codes. I can erase and the triangle goes out, but it comes back on eventually. It seems only if the car is driven a long time/distance it comes on, indicating some heat issue perhaps.

The 12v battery is good, the radiator coolant is good, the inverter coolant is good and flowing. The washer fluid hose is broken, could THAT give the death triangle? There must be a way to have the cars display whats wrong with the fancy software and touch screen?

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Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Revs But No DTC Codes?

I have no codes on screens, engine revs and gas mileage has gone down to 30 mpg from 40s this summer. The toyota service adviser said the poor gas mileage was from running the heater since it is around 20 degrees these days in minnesota. My innova scanner shows no DTC's. But my question is do I need a scanguage II or other scanner to get the battery codes? Am I missing them using the innova scanner? What scanners are available for 2001 prius.

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Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 With Lots Of Codes - Battery Discharged

P0420 CATALYST EFF BELOW THRESHOLD

P0440 EVAP EMISSION SYSTEM

P0441 EVAP EMM SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW

P0446 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT

P3190

P3191

P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE

P0301 CYL 1 MISFIRE

P0304 CYL 4 MISFIRE

Was driving on highway in mild rain and car started to shudder and stalled. I ran it on the electric motor for a while to get out of traffic so it's fairly drained. Has a year old main battery and a year old 12V Optima battery. Car has 202,000 miles.

The cat code and possibly evap were on all year as check engine light has been on. I get the triangle of death with exclamation point on the right car icon on the screen as well as the check engine light. After resetting the codes the triangle hasn't come back. Haven't rechecked the other codes as it was a borrowed generic scanner.

Just checked the 12V battery at Autozone and they say it's good but discharged. Car won't start and it seems to kill the 12V battery if left to sit. I did the throttle body and MAF clean even though they both looked ok. A little oil in the intake so I mopped it up. Didn't work. I hooked up another 12V battery with jumper cables and it doesn't work. Checked the fuel pump relay and it's ok. I pulled spark plug 1 and it was fine. Check main battery and 12V connections -all fine - tight and no corrosion.

I'll try to check fuel pressure and spark.

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Prius (2001-03) :: P3006 And P1259 Codes But No Loss Of MPG

Check Engine light is on but car seems to be running OK (getting 40mpg). I do notice that the car seems to rely on the Gas more than the battery than it used to.

My question is, will MPG start to drop gradually until one day the Traction Battery is just dead or will the car go from running well to not running well in minutes.

My shop says it needs a battery but it's not in the budget at the moment so I need to see if I can postpone it until the new year.

2003, 145k, just bought it 3 months ago

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Prius (2001-03) :: Spongy Brakes - No Lights Or Codes

So I've got spongy brakes on my 2003 Prius. I've flushed the whole system twice. Replaced the hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums. Still spongy. I'm not sure what to check next. No lights or codes. I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. You can pump the brakes up when they become spongy and they hold solid. If you practically stand on the brake pedal it will slowly bleed down. This tells me the fluid pressure must be escaping somewhere. I don't want to just blindly replace parts.

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