Prius (2001-03) :: Windows Fog Up Super Fast?
Nov 1, 2015
I'm in rainy Seattle. Windows fog up super quick on the G1 I just purchased here in early winter (45-50F rainy outside). No evidence of any water leaking into interior. New cabin air filter. Also have a G2 and G3, neither fog up super fast.
I usually like to run AC least as possible to allow ICE to shutdown more. So I set air flow from outside (not recirc) fan on 1st setting. Temp on 70+
Thought I ask before going over the car to look for any water entry.
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So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
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Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
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I have a 02 Prius and the driver's side brakes are wearing twice as fast as the passengers side. Some times if I have to stop quickly the brakes pads continue to apply pressure on the rotor when the brakes are released. After a little drive they seem to go back to normal. Is this a sign of a bad caliper or master cyl.? I know before I purchased the car the front brakes and rotors were done, but they used after market parts
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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This problem started out about a month and a half ago. It started missing slightly. Then I noticed my gas was going down very fast. So I started watching it, A five mile trip used a eighth tank of gas. It keeps getting worse. My husband popped the hood and was looking to see if he could spot anything.( Couldn't smell any gas) He noticed the purge control solenoid wasn't making the noise it normally does. He took it off, cleaned it and put it back on and it started working again. ( NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AT ANY TIME ) It did it again.
So we called the dealer, made an appointment, took it in, The dealer service guy said he Scanned for codes PO443 Performed Diagnosis Found EVAP PURGE SOLENOID Sticking Open. He said everything else checked out good. He ordered the part, called said it was in, went back, installed it. Amazingly IT"S STILL NOT WORKING. Now, I Do Not TRUST the dealership. It Stalls and misses and spits and sputters when it is in park and you give it the gas. There's times when I am at a parking lot waiting to get out and I start to pull out it trys to die on me.
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I've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
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I have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
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Rhe problem is that both sides blink fast the left one used to blink normally sometimes and fast again. All the light bulbs work and are not led. I found the problem on the right side : in the front the side light blinks but the drl doesn't blink with it. Now both sides blink fast. What part of the car i should check ?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
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The problem is that both sides blink fast the left one used to blink normally sometimes and fast again all the lightbulbs work and are not led i found the problem on the right side : in the front the side light blinks but the drl doesnt blink with it now both sides blink fast. What my problems might be? What part of the car i should check ?
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I have a 1997 vw cabrio. I'm having problems with my signal lights. They start blinking super fast or not at all. When they do work if I hit the brake they stop working until I release the brake.
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2014 f305 rusting out fast. Ford needs to address the problem and fix these issues on the super duty already on the road
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My truck is a 1999 F-250 Super Duty 7.3 diesel. My left turn signal is fine. My right turn signal is going fast. The rear blinker lights up, but the front does not. So... no brainer... change the front bulb. I did. Twice. Sylvania 3157. It did not fix the problem...
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01 F150. Cranks but no start, will fire with starter fluid spray. Theft light fast flash, Check engine light on. Only have one key and don't know what the kid that had owned has done.
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So my right blinker is blinking really fast, after working fine for about a week. Nothing changed. I checked all bulbs and they're working fine. I repeat: ALL BULBS ARE GOOD. Truck has a service body on it with LED brake lights. Thought maybe the LED lights didn't have enough draw for the system to detect a good bulb, but left side works fine. Swapped bulbs from left side to right, still right side blinks fast. I even removed left rear brake light and it still flashes normally.. So not sure what's going on. Light control module??
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Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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While I know this has been covered before, I could not find anything pertinent to 2011-2015 model years.
So, I changed my turn signals to LEDs, and now I have the fast-blink behavior. I realize this is because of the significantly decreased amperage and resistance of the LED modules. I did a similar mod on my 2007, and simply found a replacement low-current blinker relay (on eBay, I think), and replaced it (it was physically located behind the extra small glove box near the middle of the dash.
My questions are, 1) for a 2015, should I use the same method of replacing the blinker relay? 2) Any brand and model that will work for this application and/or where one can be purchased and 3) Where is that relay located on the 2015 model? If not, should resistors be used?
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Ever since I got my car back from service at a car shop 3 days ago, my gas pipes have been falling fast, getting half the distance I used to. The weather is the same, my commute/miles are the same, my driving habits are the same (hypermiling more or less), and the trip consumption on the MFD is normal. My average is 52.5 MPG. The only thing that's changed was getting my car maintained and they used synthetic motor oil for the first time but that should make no difference.
Dont know why I'm seeing my pips drop at a 2x rate.
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This morning it was COLD !!! I had the Fan on, with No Defog (Defrost), with the Air Direction to the feet and windshield and Temp Control at 68 degF.
Before I got to work I pressed the Temp Control OFF button.
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