Prius (2001-03) :: Vibration When Hit The Brakes Slowing Down On Highway
Oct 12, 2015
Change rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
View 19 RepliesChange rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
View 19 Repliesi have a 2010 with 182k miles. The vehicle will jerk like the drive is engaging and disengaging several times (repeatively) when going down hill. It doesn't matter how fast, but I notice it does depend on the ECO indicator. The ECO gage always indicates above the mid mark but ranges between no more than quarter to an inch and quarter above. If I speed up it stops and if I slow down below the mid line it will stop.
View 13 RepliesWhen I am slowing down and lightly pressing on the brakes and around 18mph or lower i hear a tick-tick-tick-tick noise , sounds like a roulette wheel from a casino war game in vegas coming to a stop, from the left front side..what could this be? .
View 2 RepliesHyundai Elantra 2002.
First I want to tell you some details about the tires... The front tires are from different brands, the right one is Nexen Radial N5000 P195/60R15 and the left one is a Pirelli P400 P195/60R15. The back tires are the same brand but they are a little big bigger, P195/65R15.
After saying that... I'm feeling a vibration when I go faster than 100 km/h on the highway, it makes me feel insecure, when I go at 90 km/h the car is fine, the vibration is not only at the wheel, I can feel it in the entire car... Could be the different tires? Unbalance? Alignment? Rotation? Perhaps a problem with the RIMs?
And also, I hear a toc toc toc noise at the right front side of the car when I turn and brake at the same time... I just hear that noise when I turn and brake, when I'm going straight or I turn without brake I don't hear nothing.
I bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
My Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
View 7 Replies82000 kilometres on my 2012 v. 16 inch wheels. Serviced at the dealership right on schedule since new. Last service at 80000 they said the tires are at 2/32 tread depth and recommended replacement. Michelin energy savers, original tires. My monthly driving is only around 600 km so I decided to wait till the spring to change them.
View 19 RepliesMy F-250 7.3 liter diesel is eating up front tires. I have tried new upper and lower ball joints, new shocks, alignment, and new tires (again). Tire wear is on the outside right and inside left. At times when the brakes are applied it causes a shake and vibration. One mechanic though I should get the leaf springs redone.
View 4 RepliesI bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
View 9 Replies2012 Prius Five- Had an annoying vibration coming from the trunk area at highway speeds- especially on concrete roadways. First thought was the problematic rear license plate/frame that I've read about- so I used some felt pads around the rear plate & frame but still had the annoying vibration ad highway speeds. Over the weekend I had some spare time so I started poking around in the trunk area by rapping in several areas with a heavy hand till I heard the same (or similar frequency) vibrating sound.
Eventually I was able to isolate it to somewhere under the rear deck. I removed the carpet, then plastic deck then even the spare, etc., Found it was actually coming from the sheet metal box that surrounds the connections coming from the car and relays to the hybrid battery box. Seems the metal edges of that small connections/relay enclosure were just touching the battery box metal enclosure just lightly enough to vibrate under certain conditions. But how to fix?
To make a long story short- I disconnected the 12v battery, removed the black exhaust duct over small metal cover, removed the battery cooling fan intake shroud, then two annoying orange lock rivets, then a few 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt- and finally the metal connection/relay cover came off.
Once off- I used black electric tape to line every seam where that metal cover touched the battery box metal cover or car frame- I then lined the battery box metal cover the same way in the areas where the connection/relay cover mated on it. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly. Upon ride to work this morning- vibration was 100% gone- fixed!
I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
vibrates on slowing down - no brakes just let off gas - until speed drops down to fairly low. an auto trans. seems to be front end source, the driveshaft and u-joints appear good. I jacked up front and checked tie rods and wheel bearing shake - nothing there?
I haven't found a long enough downhill grade to try it in nuetral selector position at over around 25 mph yet. Could shock absorber do this? They appear good. tires have some miles on them but wheels have the weights on them?
I have a 2010 Prius. Lately it has been in the 80s and 90s here. After my car has been sitting for awhile in the heat (usually during the work day), there is a strong vibration when using brakes. The vibration occurs after I have come to a complete stop, and lasts for 2-3 seconds. After 10-15 minutes, the issue stops. On cooler days I haven't noticed an issue.
View 9 RepliesMy anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
when i bought the t-reg the next day we drove 12 hours to NC, and every time we were on the pike for a while then pulled into a service plaza to refuel or take a break the treg would all of a sudden either jam the brakes or lug the transmission really abrupt just for a instant [URL]....................... it is hard to tell which it is. Kind of like not pulling in the clutch when coming to a stop..
View 4 RepliesJust got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
View 6 RepliesI am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
Wanted to query the collective wisdom here: last few days, been getting a strong grinding/vibration rolling along, but only under steady speed or slowing down. Early in any trip its barely noticeable, but after an hour on the highway it can resonate pretty strongly. Gets worse with speed. Goes away completely under acceleration.
Doesn't get better or worse with brake application, stays exactly the same if I pop the tranny into neutral and roll along.
2008 B6 Sedan (trendline in Canada) - 103000 km (roughly 60000 miles)
Couple of possibly related observations: tires are down to their last 1/3 of life (but fairly even wear across all 4), brakes do need attention (bit of a pulse on application), and when I was switching from snows to summers I noticed a small splash of grease on the driver side CV boot - couldn't see a split but I don't think it should have been there.
My thoughts: possibly CV joint going, or really need new rotors...
Here's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.