Prius (2001-03) :: Stumble And Stall On Startup - Losing Engine Power
Jul 29, 2012
My sister has a 2001 Prius w/ 150k miles. She asked me if I could shut off her check engine light. From what she tells me 1-2 times a year on very hot days (high 90s) when she starts the car it will stumble and stall (been happening since 03 when she got it).
I took it to autozone to get the codes which were:
P0300 - I assume all the misfire codes are from it stalling
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P1636
P3002
Since she said it was normal for the car I just cleared the codes for her. She did have this checked out one time at a dealership when the car was under warranty and they found nothing wrong and blamed it on the weather.
I searched the forums for 1636 and 3002 codes the 12v battery seems like it could be a likely culprit (it is the original battery as far as she knows). A few weeks passed while I was researching the codes and the battery options and she had another problem. (still haven't ordered the battery yet)
She says the car loses engine power 1-2 times a week (she drive 4-500mi a week). The dash stays lit up and the power comes back quickly. Sometimes while accelerating it will just stop accelerating and then go back to normal, or on the highway it will slow down and then be back to normal. Check engine light is back on and the new codes are:
P0420
P1636
P3002
I'm going to get a new battery ordered today but I'm kind of skeptical that it has anything to do with this new problem.
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A bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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I've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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Car: Elantra 2002 GT
5 Speed Manual
318000km
Kept all recommended service checks
Just week ago strange occurrence of the following problem started. Car is Idling No Problem, Running in any speed, accelerating no problem. Driving on Highway one day engine started stall (check Engine popup stall) but I didn't push the clutch and its restarted and run and again after while come on and stall and restarted and run and after just running no problem.
Removed Fuel pump, check the tank, nothing visible, I put water remover in the tank refuel to the full tank, car is running. Driving for two days, no problem. Today I drove on the highway and its happened again, after 3-4 stall car is running smoothly again.
I have OBD reader with me, no codes, no stored codes...nothing. No battery failure as the clock and radio didn't reset. Drove around the bumpy street for 30 minutes, nothing as I thought some bad relay.
What I should try next? (HV for spark plugs, fuel pump is running smoothly and has pressure, dirty injection?)
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I've mentioned in earlier posts that my speedometer has been swinging around wildly off and on, and that on two occasions this has been coupled with a momentary engine stumble. This morning on the way to work it was doing it again but this time the engine stumble happened several times as well. I plan to check the speed sensor, but I wonder how this is also causing the engine stumble?
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
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My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
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I have a 2001 chevy venture (254,000 miles) that has me baffled. It has been a great van but it started about a month ago sputtering and bucking and numerous times shutting off. Most times the engine light would NOT come on. It would get the hiccoughs and start bucking like someone learning to drive a stick shift for the first time. Once it sputtered hard enough to throw off the serpentine belt. I put a new timing belt on it last year when I redone the intake manifold gasket. Now its not shutting off but it has only about half the power it should and the engine light is starting to come on more often.
It bogs down and then it will try to go then bog down again. The engine light blinks for about 20 seconds then stops and goes out. When the engine light is on and stays on the code most often says system too lean, and a egr flow insufficient. It does have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the egr. Have ordered that, hasn't come in yet. Gas mileage is horrible. I have done new plugs, fuel filter and cleaned the K&N air filter. Someone suggested the catalytic converter. I dumped in a bottle of 'Cata-cleanse' from Autozone. No difference. A friend of mine had a venture doing the exact same thing. It was in the shop for 6mo with no luck. But his straightened out on its own and is running good now. I really don't feel like waiting 6mo to see if this will straighten out.
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After the warning light & triangle went on in my 2003 Prius, it turned out the inverter pump was bad. It was replaced. Now I am steadily losing MPG as I drive the car. From before the replacement, it has gone from 42 - 44 down to 36. This is in a few days time.
After I got home, I saw that the dealer put on the service ticket that the car might need a new inverter. There was no reason stated for that, and the service rep never mentioned it. In fact, the service rep said that the hybrid system would not be damaged if I drove the car with the warning light, since the hybrid system would shut itself off before any damage would be done.
There is a small leak in the radiator but on inspection, the coolant level is full (actually, while still hot, it is overfull), so I don't think that is the problem, at least not yet.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
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My '05 Elantra GT has done some weird stuff in the last few days: Losing complete power for a second when pulling out of the driveway two days ago, flickering headlights constantly, complete loss of power while trying to start last night, then suddenly everything started right up. Today, it lost power 2 times in about 10 seconds while I was sitting at a light on the way to work, but the motor never shut all the way off so it just restarted. Today at lunch, I turned the key and everything went dark. I pressed the brake pedal, the dash clock came on and then I was able to start the car. Bad Diode in alternator?
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6. I am experiencing an issue of losing power as I travel up an incline and it doesn't matter how much I depress the gas pedal. The codes that I am receiving are P0101, P0174, and P0171. After reviewing the codes and doing some research I'm thinking it is either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump, which can tend to fail in vehicles 10 yrs or older depending on vehicle mate Nance (i.e. constantly running the tank down to almost empty).
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I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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