I think the 12v agm battery is starting to go on our 03 prius. It wouldn't start after 4 days no use but did after 2. What is a healthy resetting voltage (with nothing turned on) for this agm battery as I'll check it with a multimeter? What is considered an unhealthy voltage?
View 1 RepliesAfter not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
turn the key sometimes- nothing. sometimes 5 seconds, the longest was 35 minutes always starts, but you never know when. it's not battery, starter or solenoid. it's an automatic, 90k miles Moving the shifter does nothing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 with the red triangle & yellow ((!)) on, the symbols return after 1 minute of resetting aux battery", where I should start ?
View 7 RepliesWe recently replaced the driver's window on our 2001 Prius, and now when the auto-close switch is activated, the window closes and then immediately bounces back open to halfway (triggering jam protection function). I know it's common to have to reinitialize the window in this situation, but can't figure out how to do it!
I have the Gen II+ instructions but they don't work for this car. How it should be done on a Gen 1? The manual has no details, unfortunately.
We have a 2013 Prius V. We found our car out of battery on Friday - the 12V battery was very undercharged - the AAA tech read the numbers but I forget now exactly.
Clearly, we don't drive the car frequently enough. Two years and we haven't hit the 10,000miles mark yet. We did get back from a 500 mile road trip though on Sunday and drove the car twice (within a 5-10 mile radius - city driving). Yesterday & today I did an average of 60 odd miles but was often stuck in traffic so the battery indicator in the display doesn't show full either.
We have also kept the same "lifestyle" the last two years and never had an issue. I did check if any lights were left on but nothing was in the "on" position.
We were recommended both by AAA & the Toyota shop to keep a battery maintainer or just drive 200 odd miles a week! The AAA mechanic said, maybe the battery is conked out but the Toyota folks didn't say anything about it.
Our issue is that our car is parked in the basement of an apartment building and find no plug points nearby or even within a range we could try to get an extension cord. And even if we did talk to management and find a hook up, how would the logistics of it work? We are in an urban area and can't really leave a car unlocked.
As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
View 19 RepliesI have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
View 3 RepliesAlmost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
View 1 Replies2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
View 8 RepliesOk. So i left work yesterday and realized that my low beams are both out. These are new bulbs so I checked the fuse under the engine hood. It had not broken. I grabbed my volt meter and got no current DC going into the fuse. Where the relay is located? This is for a 2001 prius.
View 11 RepliesI have a problem with my 2002 Prius when I was driving down the highway the master warning light came on with a warning display screen appearing saying that there is a problem in the Hybrid System and then the car went into shut down mode. I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis and an estimate. The codes read were P3000, P3004, P3125, and P3009 they did not tell me the sub-codes read. Their diagnosis was the inverter needed to be replaced. The Main battery on this car had been replacing at 140,000 and there has not been a problem since the car has been well taken care of throughout its life. Being new to working on hybrids but not cars and electronics I figured I could replace it cheaper than the dealer price of $4200. With the age of the car and high miles 175,000 I figured it would not be worth the new part price so I got a guaranteed used inverter. After replacing the inverter I still got the same problem with no change.
So I decided I would have to diagnose it myself. The car starts and runs fine and starts charging the battery right away as normal but if try to but it in reverse or drive it fails so that means the short would have to be in the transaxle. I decided to test MG1 and MG2 for shorts and I figured I would need to use a megger to do this but I did not all three winding on MG2 test shorted to ground on the 200-ohm scale on a regular ohm meter. Then after closer inspection of MG2 cables, you can see a coating of corrosion running up all three cables. So the question I have is this corrosion on the cables a common problem for 1st gen and could it be possibly just a cable issue and not MG2 and can the cables be replaced without dropping the engine and transaxle???
I have a '10 with only 4k miles, driven very little. Car might sit for three weeks and sometimes, not always, car won't start, dead battery. I have checked starting voltage and battery. Both check good, (after i have recharged battery, of course). Is this normal? I certainly hope not.
View 10 RepliesI bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
View 1 RepliesI recently parked my 2013 Prius in a concrete parking structure near LAX for 8 days. When I returned, the battery was dead - car was completely nonresponsive. AAA had to "resync" the hybrid system along with jumper cables to get me going. The technician said it was because the concrete drained the battery. I have previously left the car in underground garages for longer periods of time with no problem. Is this an urban legend?
View 15 RepliesI'm still trying to decide whether to get a Prius. I'm looking at a 2014 new III. Question: My friend who has a 2001 Prius (whose original hybrid battery is still going strong, by the way) says that if she does not drive her Prius for 2-3 weeks, her starter battery will need a jump. Is that particular to Priuses, or do all newer cars with the keyless entry and/or theft deterrent do that?
View 10 RepliesI just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
I am absolutely stumped and so are two mechanics I've been to. Randomly when I go to start the car the battery is so dead it won't start. Car is an AWD 2001 1.8T Jetta.
Replaced battery and alternator at my regular mechanic, all ground wires look great and couldn't find any shorts. There is a 11 Amp draw from my battery, took it to a shop that specializes in VW/Audi and they hooked it up to Vagcom and it showed absolutely nothing wrong. He left the meter hooked up and pulled every single fuse in the car and there was only like a 0.01 drop, nothing significant. When he went to take my car out of the shop, wouldn't start. So he put a battery pack on it, still wouldn't start. Took off both terminals on the battery, put them back on, put on the battery pack, and car started.
The aftermarket deck in it is just a JVC single din, doesn't seem to have any issues.
We have a 1990 Ford Ranger - 2WD 4cyl - sometimes when we try to start it, it will not kick over the final time for several tries. When it finally catches the voltage gauge will flicker and jump around. When the gauge flickers, the truck will shut off...then the same issue with trying to start it again. Some days it runs just fine and others it will stall out 3-5 times in a 15-20 minute drive. We have been told it's the DIS Module OR the Crankshaft Position Sensor OR the Voltage Regulator OR .....
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