Prius (2001-03) :: Spongy Brakes - No Lights Or Codes
Jul 12, 2016
So I've got spongy brakes on my 2003 Prius. I've flushed the whole system twice. Replaced the hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums. Still spongy. I'm not sure what to check next. No lights or codes. I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. You can pump the brakes up when they become spongy and they hold solid. If you practically stand on the brake pedal it will slowly bleed down. This tells me the fluid pressure must be escaping somewhere. I don't want to just blindly replace parts.
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My Gen I Prius is screeching at me with the BRAKE and ABS lights on, and I hear the electrically actuated pump pulsing as it tries to get pressure into the system. The pedal is spongy and will go all the way down, with the right amount of exerted pressure from my foot.
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I drive a 2002 Santa Fe with 121k miles. Last week the red brake light came on in the dash that usually indicates the parking brake is activated, though it was not. Checked fluids, brakes worked fine, so I took it to the dealership to have it looked at.
They claimed "the ABS control module was leaking" and needed to be replaced in it's entirety...almost $2000, and they said that is the reason my brakes felt spongy when applied. I agreed they did. I decided to decline letting them fix it since my brakes had worked fine beforehand.
Upon picking up the car I notice the red indicator light is still on, and now the brakes need to be applied all the way to the floor to have any stopping power at all. It seemed to get worse after 2 days, I checked the brake fluid and it was empty! So I replaced the fluid, yet the brakes still function VERY poorly.
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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I'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
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My daughter 03 Prius died on her, the codes it threw are listed as P3108, P3191,P3101. We cleaned MAF and throttle and this did not solve the problem. We replaced the MAF with a remanufactured unit from O'Reilly's and now the car drives normally, but the check engine and red exclamation light are still on.
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I've been having issues with my beloved 2003 with a little over 130k with warning lights going on and off. I went to O'Reilly's they gave me the codes P3130 and P0303. One of codes states "misfiring on all cylinders," they didn't have a description for the other one.
Dealership won't tell me anything about what the codes mean. The warning lights are an exclamation point inside a triangle, check engine, and what looks like a thermometer in red.
Just got the oil changed a little over a week ago, dealership said they didn't notice any problems. Warning lights came back on last Thursday and just disappeared about an hour ago.
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My 2001 Prius makes this sound when the engine is running. All the battery lights are on all the time, I think it needs a new HV battery but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Perhaps the other battery is faulty I really don't know. All the engine lights are on and if the brake light comes on it starts shaking or the power steering fails or it just completely shuts off on the road no lights no power steering nothing. When that happens I use a battery booster that I keep in my trunk to get it going again but it's really dangerous to drive now.
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My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
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A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
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Friday morning I'm backing my 2011 Sonata Limited out of the garage and I always idle out but this time it started backing about 2 paces faster than idle speed. I hit the brakes and the pedal is on the floor..no brakes..I put it Drive and nothing no power. It didn't stop until I backed into the street curb, tires only no damage. When it hit the curb the brake pedal was back and Drive engaged as if nothing ever happened. Dropped it off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything but did open a case with Hyundai. Saturday doing a couple of backing the brakes were really spongy in reverse only. Will have that checked next week.
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After replacing the Front Rotors, calipers, and brake lines on my 2005 F150 Super Crew I have spongy brakes. I have also replaced the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes as well as a reputable repair shop has done the same. We are both at a loss as to what is wrong. The ABS light is on now after the replacement of these parts. This issue did not exist prior to changing these items. This was done to hopefully eliminate brake shudder that I have been experiencing for some time.
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In cold weather (10-15 deg.) the brakes in my 2009 Santa Fe are very soft/spongy. I had to depress the brake pedal nearly to the floor before it would stop on dry pavement. Once it's warmed up, the brakes seem fine. Pumping them seems to work but they are not back to their normal condition.
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I have a 2000 subaru legacy outback with about 160,000 miles.
The brakes are spongy. The reservoir is full. I took it to my regular mechanic, and he said the lines are good. He also said that if it were the master cylinder, after pumping the brakes up the peddle will sink to the floor, which it is not doing. So he's stumped.
What this would be? I've had several scares when I had to slam the brakes and wasn't sure the car would stop!
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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I've got a '12 GTI (bought 10/1/12) with just over 20k miles on it. Everything on the car is stock and original - pads, rotors, calipers - and the brake fluid hasn't been flushed yet. The last few months I've noticed an increasing sponginess to the brakes, the pedal taking longer to depress before I feel significant stopping.
Pads and rotors still look good. Fluid level's normal. At best it feels like maybe some air pockets might've worked into the fluid lines. At worst it feels like maybe a leaky master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's a common problem.
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I have a 2002 f350 Super duty, 7.3. After I changed out the power steering box, I did bleed the system, I have now power steering and the brakes are very spongy. Any thing to check prior to replacing the booster? I have been told the power steering is probably just an alignment issue and I should bleed the brakes.
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I'm not exactly sure what's going on but it feels like I'm missing some brakes - the pedal is extremely spongy, I have to push it nearly to the floor. And when they do engage, it isn't with the same vigor as they did before.
It's strange, it just sort of happened - I drove to a friend's house, everything was fine. But when I left all of a sudden, there's this problem.
It's not like the pads have come apart and destroyed a caliper - I had that happen to me a few years ago and I definitely felt it happen, plus once it did I lost almost all braking ability as the lines would just leak fluid.
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I started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....
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