Prius (2001-03) :: Severe Vibration When Turning Hard Right Followed By PS Error Code
Dec 2, 2011
This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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My wife's 04 AWD 2.7 Santa Fe has developed a severe vibration. I have rotated tires, checked ball joints and tie rod ends, and had it aligned. The tires show very even wear and don't appear to have any bulges or broken belts. The vibration is so severe that the vents rattle louder than max radio volume, but it completely disappears in even the gentlest right turn.
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I have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
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82000 kilometres on my 2012 v. 16 inch wheels. Serviced at the dealership right on schedule since new. Last service at 80000 they said the tires are at 2/32 tread depth and recommended replacement. Michelin energy savers, original tires. My monthly driving is only around 600 km so I decided to wait till the spring to change them.
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keep on getting this error code....I think I have exhaust leak , Would that trigger this code ?....is an Exhaust leak is considered a Vacuum leak??
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I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
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This summer, my steering rack failed, and I had it replaced with a remanufacutured steering rack. All went well, until a few weeks ago I started feeling a pulsing effect when turning, usually when turning right. On a few occasions, the shaking has become severe. It is a back-and-forth effect, about three times a second. It is bad enough that it has triggered a power steering error on two occasions. I took it to the garage who installed the rack, asking them to have a look at it, and they found nothing. Because the effect is regular, I am assuming that I am feeling the 12V power assist malfunctioning or reacting to faulty input.
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How do I turn off that Severe Weather alert when I start the vehicle? I remember reading the trick somewhere ... But cannot locate it now.
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Could a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
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The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
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I have just won a Mk 1 Prius on eBay and hope I have made a good choice - not having seen the car! There is an error code: 1554 which apparently is why the power steering isn't working
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Got a P0001 error , Fuel volume regulator stuck opened....where is the fuel volume regulator is located on a first Gen. Prius?
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I had this problem for a while. My radio is always on when I stop the engine in my 2008 Passat. But lately, the next day when I started the car the radio was sometimes off.
Well, apparently the random turn off was an indicator that my battery was slowly getting bad and not holding a full charge. Yesterday my engine light came on and when I took the car to the service department they found out that the error code was triggered by low voltage.
At the end, they changed the battery. This is the first time I am changing the battery on this car since I got it in 2008. So 5 years on single battery is pretty good I assume.
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I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
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The other day, my Explorer gave a hard jerk while changing into 2 (maybe 3rd?) gear. Never happened before. I was under 20 MPH & had just stared it. (My speedometer works as do all the dials.) My Check Engine light came on & when I had the code pulled it read quote "P0715."Transmission Speed Sensor circuit condition. Vehicle speed above 15 MPH while transmission output shaft speed below 60 RPM. Possible cause Failed transmission speed sensor or electrical problem"
I got a Transmission Speed Sensor, (which I haven't put in yet), and was told that this would solve the problem. My question is twofold: Is there ANY chance this is a false or misread code and the problem is something else? And could ANOTHER sensor attached to the transmission be the cause? (How many sensors are on the tranny?) All I've read about this problem, say's replacing the Transmission Speed Sensor is preceded by the SPEEDOMETER quitting, but mine works fine.
The truck is a 1997 Explorer 4x4, but I don't use 4x4. In fact I've driven it without the forward drive shaft ever since I had the BW4405 Transfer Case replaced.
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2015 6.7L Super Duty ... I bought this truck 74,000 miles and almost two years ago. About 6 months ago it developed a vibration and a very hard shaking of the steering wheel when (so far) turning to the left. First began when, from a dead stop at a red light, I turned left onto an uphill I-41 on-ramp. Scared the crap out of me and I had to pull over to a dead stop to get it to stop. Happened several times but only on this ramp. Local Ford dealer checked it out 2 oil changes ago and couldn't find anything wrong. Now, 2 weeks ago it did it on the highway at 65 mph on a slow, 80-ish degree and downhill turn on a 4 lane highway in Milwaukee. Again had to almost stop for the wildly shaking steering wheel to return to 'normal.' Am taking truck back to same dealer this Wednesday for it's next oil change and they will check it out again. I pull a 37 foot, 15K pound 5th wheeler and don't need to lose control at 70 mph!!!!!
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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Wondering what could be possible causes of severe shaking while under acceleration?? Also does it worse when turning right. Will just vibrate and start going wherever.
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2004 Saturn Vue, V6 AWD with 138K miles. In the last 8 months I have had the struts rebuilt, all brake components replaced (everything), front axles replaced, anti-sway bar bushings replaced, front end alignment, replaced wheels and tires and front wheel bearings, replaced two broken motor mounts, removed defective main drive shaft, all to eliminate the vibration that begins at speeds approaching highway speeds.
The problem has not gone away but is much improved with the new axles and motor mounts. Sheering shaft was replaced 7 years ago.
The GM dealer refuses to look at it until I replace the drive shaft, which the car doesn't need to drive.
I have had it to suspension specialists and a dozen mechanics and we are all at a loss.
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Bought my 2009 super cab with 6.5 bed little over a month ago. It has the 4.6 3v. A couple weeks after I got all the symptoms of a dry slip yoke. Thumping at stop and start. Shortly after I also started getting a very bad vibration the got progressively worse during acceleration. Felt like the truck was going to bounce off the road. With the vibration there was also a loud chirping noise from underneath. Thinking this was related to the skip yoke problem I pulled the driveshaft and lubricated the yoke with CV joint grease my dealer gave me since they didn't have the Teflon grease.
Truck was fine for a couple weeks. No thumping no vibration no chirping. Last week the vibration and chirping came back just as bad. I got the ford Teflon grease and pulled the driveshaft again. The very next day the vibration and chirping came back. No thumping or other noise like before my initial grease job. When it starts shaking I stop and shut the truck off. Usually once I do that and wait a couple minutes I'm ok. Only happens intermittently. U joints?
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