Prius (2001-03) :: Red High Temp Light On - Power Loss After Few Minutes
Apr 24, 2016
My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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I ran about 2 miles on EV then switched to HV 1/2 mile before getting on the freeway. After about 3miles red temp light came on Outside air temp was about 65. I was on a 2 mile long single lane transition so I was unable to get off the freeway. I slowed down to about 60mph from 70mph the light went off. The light was on for about 2min.
I got off the freeway and opened the hood. The coolant had over flowed puking coolant all over my clean engine. I was able to run EV to dealer to check. My guess was a stuck thermostat! Dealer just called me and after calling manufacture to discuss the the error codes and my symptoms, there best guess was a stuck thermostat.
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I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 176k miles on it. I drive it about 65 miles each way to work every day. If I really baby the throttle, no warning lights ever come on, and the heat will take about 45 minutes to kick in. If I use the gas a little more aggressively, the heat will start working after about 30 minutes when I get on the freeway and speed up, BUT the high temperature warning light will intermittently come on. First, the red triangle Warning light will come on, followed by "PROBLEM" on the display followed by a red temperature indicator.
Typically it flickers off after just a few seconds, but sometimes the temp light stays on for longer, maybe 30 seconds or a minute before it shuts off. Then it continues to go on and off every few minutes for as long as I'm on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be directly related to when I hit the gas. I have checked the coolant level and it looks fine.
I bought the car back around 2010 when it had just received it's 100k mile maintenance and they had also just replaced the water pump. I haven't looked at the OBD-II codes, if there are any. I have never replaced the 12v battery. The lights are pretty annoying/alarming and I'm not sure if it's "normal" for the heat to take 30-45 minutes to come on. Maybe the 12v battery or the inverter pump need to be replaced?
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I have a 2005 Prius with 234K. Over the last week, the red triangle has been coming on along with "problem", followed by the high temp light. I originally checked coolant levels then took it into Toyota. Here was the diagnosis:
Found two low voltages codes stored
Replaced thermostat
Notes: Temp light on MDU does indicate malfunction. Low battery may have erased codes. Found the cooling system low on coolant. Pressure tested system (no leaks seen at this time), tech noted thermostat stuck closed. Replaced thermostat and refilled cooling system.
Now on the 45 min commute home the error did not re-occur, but it did happen the next day. I took it back into Toyota and this time there were no errors stored. I also told them that the heater wasn't blowing hot air but when they tested the heater it worked fine. They told me to document any time it happened to see if I could find a common cause.
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With only 356k miles on my 06, I'm now getting a sudden drop/loss of power at high RPM. At about 80mph on flat land (or about 60mph up hill) if I try to accelerate the power drops off as a fluttering sound starts (not engine knock). The fluttering sounds like 6 inches of celophane tape flapping in the wind at highway speeds.
I just cleaned my K&N air filter, but the plugs, injectors and fuel pump are original. I ran 1 can of injector cleaner (SeaFoam from O'Reilly) with little to no improvement. I'm guessing it's the fuel pump/pressure, since it runs fine at lower RPM, with no loss of mpg or power (still 50mpg average). I know the fuel pump is in the tank ($400 in parts alone). I'll see if I can measure the rail pressure with Torque and my CANBUS scanner.
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My A/C light starts flashing after about 30 minutes of use. The A/C is still cold while it's running, but it warms up when the light starts blinking.
At this point I'm planning on replacing the clutch assembly. How far apart do I need to take the car so I can reach the clutch? Is there something else I can test to see if the compressor is on its last legs, before I put money into the clutch?
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I bought a used Toyota Prius last winter and when the weather became hot I tried to use my AC and it worked well for a while before the Ac light FLASHING and then the AC doesn't work but the fan still working and the air became hot more than the outside temperature !! And that only happen when the weather temperature is 30c or over !! So I took it an AC tech and he told me he couldn't do anything to it because it's a hybrid car and it uses 600W Ac, so I took it to the Toyota dealer and they looked at it and they didn't know what is the exact problem so they told me I need to change the clutch relay and if it didn't work then I need to change the Magnetic Clutch.
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New/used Prius owner here with a million questions. Only 1 today. When I first start the car a light pops up that looks like a blue thermometer. Does this mean coolant is low? Also, is there some grand legend somewhere that I can look at to see what everything means. Just ordered the manual but it'll be a few days until I get it.
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I bought my 2001 Prius used about a year and a half ago and had no problems until the past couple of months. On three occasions now, the triangle warning light has come up on the screen while I was driving and the car wouldn't accelerate when I pushed the gas pedal.
Fortunately, the I was able to coast to the side of the road on each occasion, and when I turned the car off and restarted it, it worked fine. The first two times, it happened on the freeway after a lengthy drive and while traveling at about 70 mph. Today it happened on a surface street, but after I had been on the freeway (in gridlock) for nearly an hour.
I should have dealt with this sooner, but somehow every time it has happened, it was on the weekend and/or when I was out of town, so I couldn't immediately take it to a shop, and since the car started back up immediately and ran fine after each occurrence, it didn't seem urgent.
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
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After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
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I've been having this problem where as i'm driving (mostly highway) all of a sudden I get the feeling like i've let go of the gas pedal but I haven't. The mpg meter goes from about 40 to 100 as if its on straight battery power and I have to really press the pedal down to get any decent acceleration. Once in awhile i'll get the big orange triangle warning and the little pic of an exclamation point in an outline of a car. But after a day it may go away.
One time it didn't and I brought it in. I spent 80 bucks for them to find nothing wrong and say the alert had something to do with an oxygen sensor (its was awhile ago, i dont quite remember exactly)
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This just recently started happening just shy of 200k miles, 14 years. While driving down the road, suddenly notice a power loss or no power, i.e., no motor output. Sometimes the just the ICE won't accelerate, sometimes it's both ICE and Electric motive force. When this occurs, the Brake and ABS check lights turn on. After a few seconds, to 10's of seconds, then the motive power reenables and the Brake/ABS lights go out. Often the cars continues on with no repeat. Testing over a few drives, it seemed to only do it during the warmup cycle when coolant was near 160-170.
However on a drive in the afternoon after it occurred in the morning; with ambient around 30 degrees, windows cracked, interior heat off, it didn't occur on the 15 minute drive, mostly freeway speed, even after about 10 minutes and cranking interior heat on. No codes are registered when this happens. I used Torque Pro and monitored things like throttle position and such, and things there seemed normal. Eng rpm dropped under 1000rpm and wasn't steady. Watching the MFG the power flows responded to the throttle (pushed/released) as if the engine was still doing what was asked (go figure, the display shows what is commanded, not what is occurring?).
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I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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I replaced my battery. Once I connected my new battery, my fuel and temperature gauge started working strangely. They would either be high, then go low, then go back high. My interior lights, clock, and radio stopped working. Could it be a relay? I checked all the fuses with a test light and they all looked good.
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