Prius (2001-03) :: Rear Brakes Won't Release Properly?
Nov 24, 2012
I have a 2001 Prius, with disc brakes both rear and front.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Prius, with disc brakes both rear and front.
View 1 Replies2008 Ford ranger 4x4 fx4. Rear brakes drag just enough to notice, only when temp out side is below freezing. Replaced drums and shoes. stopped using emergency brake. Had wheel cylinders inspected.
View 4 RepliesI have a brake problem on my 2001 Isuzu Vehicross that has mechanics at 3 garages stumped.I bought this SUV in Dec 2013 and drove for 9 months with no noticeable problems.
At PA state inspection in Sept 2014, all 4 brakes and rotors were replaced. Since then the brakes slowly started to not engage when the pedal is first pushed. It progressed until they didn't engage until about an inch from the floor.
In Nov 2014, the brake lines were checked for leaks and bled twice. Each time they worked fine for a few days, then started to not engage again. A friend suggested maybe it was not brake fluid in my brake line. A mechanic assured me they contained brake fluid. Needless to say, I did not drive this SUV much over the last several months.Then in July 2015, another mechanic thought it was the master cylinder so I had that replaced. It did not fix the problem.
It has progressed to the point where I can feel they are engaging when the pedal is close to the floor, but not very strongly and I travel further & further until I finally stop.There are no dashboard indicators, nor codes on a diagnostic computer showing a brake problem. I have never seen brake fluid on the ground under the vehicle. What might be causing this brake problem?
I have an '01 Santa Fe and love it, except for the fact that I can no longer fold the passenger side of my rear seat. We recently moved and I guess one of the kids put the rear seats back up and didn't think to make sure that the strap that goes to the latch release was where it belonged, because now it's stuck under the seat. Actually, I think it may be stuck in the latch itself. My sis (a proud '05 SF owner) and I have tried everything we can think of to free it - it was actually quite comical to watch - but no luck. We can feel the strap but we can't get a good grip on it and can't really move it. It folds under the seat right where the latch is, that's why I think it's stuck in the latch.
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
View 2 RepliesMy rear brakes keep wearing out extremely prematurely (2,000-7,000 mile intervals) and have been for 60,000+ miles. (No joke my mechanic has warrantied the rotors and pads over and over literally like 10 times) its the insides pads of the back that wear down while the outsides and front are fine...is the proportioning valve causing this problem or is it something else? We've changed the calipers and brake hosed
View 17 RepliesWhen I step on the brakes during traffic & released it to roll the wheels, I hear the brakes squeaking a few rounds & then it will disappear. It sounds like the brake is still engage with the rotor & doesn't fully release until a few roll. This happens more during warmer days.
View 6 RepliesThe car hadn't been used in a while, and I stupidly stepped on the parking brake. Now it won't release. It's a push on/push off, but it won't clear even when pushing it to the floor. How do I get it to release? I don't know a lot about cars.
View 7 RepliesMy wife has a 2005 toyota camry with about 84000 miles. She had been complaining of intermittent issues but no one could find the cause till yesterday. Her front brakes were froze and would not release. I took it to the shop and they said the left front was hung and the pad came off and chewed the rotor up. They suggested a brake job. Well in the process of replacing rotors and pads on the front they could not get the caliper to release. Make a long story short, the rotor and pads are changed but the front brakes will not release. They checked the lines and they look good.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2015 IS250 F Sport with brakes that squeak. First time dealer said can't replicate and suggested hard braking to burn off any residue on rotors. Second time, dealer replace rear brake calipers which resulted in mix match colors of the brake caliper and bracket. Not happy.
Well it's starting to squeak again. Not sure if moisture and or cold has anything to do with it. Washed the car yesterday and as I was moving it down the driveway (small incline) the brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. I was able to replicate this several times yesterday.
This morning brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. Not on an incline driveway today.
I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
I have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
View 6 RepliesAs I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
View 6 RepliesJust replaced pads, rotors, caliper hardware, e-brake shoes and hardware and rear wheel bearing assembly on 2006 Santa Fe. Still get a high pitch sound after the car warms up in 5-10 miles. Sound is intermittent and gets somewhat louder as you drive.
View 2 RepliesMy 98 Sunfire has a grab and release feel when applying brakes. Mechanic fixed this same problem March 2012. I was told it was warped rotors and brake pads. This worked great until four weeks ago when it started again. I find it hard to believe that rotors and pads would warp again after 7 months. Also the front brakes lock up real easy on wet surface such as a light rain. When they lock up I get a bad rattle sound under the dash. ABS light does not come on and never has. This happens all the time. Even after new pads and rotors were installed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
View 11 RepliesOn said truck, when you go to stop, the brakes grab a bit, then release , then the pedal goes to about 2 inches off the floor, then they grab and hold. Pumping does nothing. No abs light on the dash. Today we put the truck in 4high and while back up I had full brake pressure from the top. Also when you take off, either in the mornings or during the day, it has a slight vibration, kinda like a brake grabbing, then all is fine. The brake grabbing isn't there 100% of the time, I would say 95%. I haven't changed the brake pads, rotors, or anything yet. Just didn't want to throw money at it and still not fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesI didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
Any fix for the rear brake noise I am getting on a 2001 Elantra. I pulled the drums off and inspected the drums and shoes all looks fine. Then I adjusted the brakes cleaned everything and still get noise. It occurs as the vehicle is coming to a stop last 10mph to stop.
View 13 Replies