I am getting an occasional (though increasingly frequent) 'brake pad' noise from one or more of the rear brakes on my NHW11. Initially it would only manifest for half a minute or so per trip (and would disappear after some braking) but it is now more or less constant. It is a light 'rubbing' noise which you would expect from worn brake pads.
View 4 RepliesHere is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
I am going to have to change my brake pads (I am probably going to do the rear shoes as well). I was wondering if I should get my Toyota dealer to change the fluid as well. I have 116,000 miles on her. Lots of highway driving, and this is only the first replacement set, these pads last forever. The fluid has never been changed before.
View 6 RepliesI always apply my parking brake whether im parked on an incline or not. Sometimes if I disengage the parking brake, and set my car in Drive on a flat surface, my car does not advance (I'm not pressing the gas). This tells me that my parking brake is sticking! If I apply the gas slowly, I hear the brakes "clunk" off and I finally get going.
View 4 RepliesHaving brake pads making noise while driving on war zone like roads? Sounds like the front end is falling off. It started after a front brake job. Dealer then replaced all the clips and it was fine for six months. Now starting to make noise again.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 Repliesi have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesI have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
View 10 RepliesMy independent mechanic just swapped out some PBR Deluxe pads that he put on with new rotors in June with with PBR Deluxe Plus pads. He did this free of charge because the front brakes were making a loud metallic clunk sound on the first brake application when backing up (weird, no?), and they were dusting like crazy. Back in the summer I followed the bedding-in procedure fellow Vortexers recommended. Aside from the clunk, the brakes were silent, though extremely dusty.
Well, after a couple of drives with the Deluxe Plus pads, I can say that they perform very well, just like the Deluxe pads before them. It's too early to tell if the dust issue is better, but the metallic clunk is still there, though far quieter than before (even with the windows open); I'd say its more of little click now.
But here's what I really don't like. I took the car out tonight to bed the brakes, doing 5 or 6 60-to-30 mph runs, followed by 5 minutes of 40-50 mph cruising with little braking and no real dead stops. All was good until I went to get gas afterward: as I slowed to <10 mph, I heard some squeaking from the fronts. Not hugely loud, but enough for me to be upset about.
Did I do something wrong? They were fine until the bedding-in run. Maybe the temperature (20s) played a role? I didn't think I went too nuts on them. I'm hoping I don't hear the squeak tomorrow. What about the persistent click I hear when braking for the first time in reverse? Could this be related the excessive dust with the PBR Deluxes?
2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
I am replacing my front brakes on my 2001 f250 and I replaced the brake pad retaining clips and now I can not get the new pads in place because of the new clips. what am I doing wrong????
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
The front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
I've been noticing this rattling sound when going over bumps, which doesn't seems to go away!. I know it's a problem with the brake pads because it goes away as soon as I depress the brake pedal. So I decided to take another look at each wheel.
- Brake pads are relatively new and properly installed.
- Wheels have anti-rattle clips properly installed.
- Bolts were properly tightened with a torque wrench by me.
- Slide pins are lubricated.
During my visual inspection I saw the rear wheel calipers are a bit loose and that should be making the noise. I would describe it as up and down play with respect to the rear rotors or the ground.
I don't know what would cause that since each bolt is tight. I don't know if low brake fluid could cause that, no lights are lit on the dashboard but will take a look at the reservoir.
One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
View 15 RepliesI changed out the brake pads, now it is making a hissing noise. I bled all the brakes starting from the back. Here is the video : [URL] .....
View 2 RepliesGen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
View 7 RepliesI'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
View 14 Replies05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...