I have a 2003 prius that is missing the relay that goes in "ABS Sol" spot in the fuse box closest to the windshield but under the hood. I think the last mechanic who worked on it took it out to test and never put it back...
View 1 RepliesLooking at figuring out why my a/c isn't working. Has a full charge but just doesn't come on. Trying to check the relay (384), but my car seems to be missing it (2000 V6 fwd w/ climatronic). It appears I have two slots open, although I think one of the slots is where I took the DRL relay from. I have a slot open on top next to relay 267 or one on the bottom row next to relay 370. Or because of the climatronic, is it a different relay?
View 1 RepliesMy truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
I have an issue with my 2003 Prius. The reverse lights do not turn on when I put the vehicle in R. Checked the bulbs and they are fine. Checked all the relay (fuse) boxes and didn't find any burnt fuses.
I have a Haynes Manual and other than a circuit diagram, there is nothing that I could find about the location of the backup light relay. By the diagram I can tell that it is connected to a "HOT IN RUN or START" circuit and a 10 A fuse. Although it is useful for showing the wire routing, it doesn't tell me where it is!!
Car misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
I replaced the blower relay around this time last year. I noticed this morning idling that the vents weren't blowing then when i was moving i heard it tick back on and would blow normally. This happens when driving too but more noticeable when idling. The AC light also flickers and goes on/off.
I can go ahead and replace it again but this seems to have gone through this brand new relay pretty fast. What I can fix to stop going through relays?
I want to convert my stock turn signals into LED, but i want to do without the hyperblink. I've done some research into this, and have ended up confusing myself. I don't know if I have to add resistors in order to stop the hyperblink that would occur, or if I can simply change the flasher relay and it be more straightforward.
2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS
my 2001 cavalier overheats only when it idles, overheats in 3 to 5 minutes & the ac blows hot. As soon as you get moving again the car runs at normal temp and the ac blows ice cold. We changed the thermostat, coolant and belts, i'm not loosing any coolant. Looks like the fans are not coming on, I can not find a location for a fan relay switch, thought maybe we should change that before changing out the fans..Is there a relay switch?
View 8 RepliesI have been having a problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra power door locks, the power door lock switch only works in one direction. It only opens all of the doors locks, but doesn't lock them so I have to manually lock all of the doors. I am pretty sure that the power door lock relays have gone bad, so I was wondering where the relays are located on Hyundai Elantra 2006 so I can swap out the old relay with the new relay.
View 3 RepliesMy main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
View 1 RepliesMy Hyundai Santa Fe 2006 V6 3.5L shows error code P2100. I cannot for the life of me find the ETS relay. Ive scoured the net but just found vague drawings and pics that didn't show ETS relay. I would also like to know is the ETS relay also known as the fail safe relay or is that a separate relay. Ive seen pics of the fail safe relay but none for the ETS relay. If there is such a relay, exactly where it is located?
View 2 RepliesIt is missing a fan in the engine compartment but it doesn't seem to overheat. The fan is not the radiator fan and I am wondering if it is a problem. If I sit at a light the smell of burnt oil also starts coming into the car through the heater. I am just wondering, what kind of oil recommended for a passat with that kind of mileage?
View 9 RepliesI replaced blower switch last year a couple of years ago. I recently starting to get clicking noise from blower relay, and fan turns off then comes back on.
Question:
1- Problem more likely to be from the relay or the fan switch? Should I just replace the relay?
2- I can see and touch the fan relay, but how do I get to it to replace it? What dis-assembly is required?
I have a 2003 Elantra GLS that has two issues that may be related. The first one the engine will shut off for no apparent reason. Doesn't matter how fast, or if the a/c is on or not. I used to be able to start it right up after I pulled over, now I have to wait about 15 seconds. Starts up fine and runs like nothing happened. There is no particular time frame when it will shut down. Maybe once a month, then happen twice in a week.
Second issue is when I have to stop at a red light and have the a/c on, it seems to have an intermittent miss, meaning after it does miss it idles fine for a while and then misses again. It seems like a miss to me, feels like the car almost shuts down but catches itself and will idle fine until next miss. If I turn off the a/c I do not feel it miss. If I have the a/c on and put it into neutral, it does not appear to miss near as much.
The check engine light has come on twice for a day or so and then goes out. Car runs fine when it does. Below is what I have done since I purchased the car used at 104,000 miles. current mileage - 117,000
* changed timing belt, transmission fluid, brake fluid, changed oil at 104,000 miles when bought.
* installed new radiator recently
* installed crankshaft sensor (due to error code when checked)
Other than that, car runs great, accelerates good, idles good
Our Hyundai Elantra starts up and idols like a dream, but when you put it in gear the engine misses so bad it doesn't want to go. What could be the problem that is causing it to do this?
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
View 1 RepliesI just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
This problem started out about a month and a half ago. It started missing slightly. Then I noticed my gas was going down very fast. So I started watching it, A five mile trip used a eighth tank of gas. It keeps getting worse. My husband popped the hood and was looking to see if he could spot anything.( Couldn't smell any gas) He noticed the purge control solenoid wasn't making the noise it normally does. He took it off, cleaned it and put it back on and it started working again. ( NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AT ANY TIME ) It did it again.
So we called the dealer, made an appointment, took it in, The dealer service guy said he Scanned for codes PO443 Performed Diagnosis Found EVAP PURGE SOLENOID Sticking Open. He said everything else checked out good. He ordered the part, called said it was in, went back, installed it. Amazingly IT"S STILL NOT WORKING. Now, I Do Not TRUST the dealership. It Stalls and misses and spits and sputters when it is in park and you give it the gas. There's times when I am at a parking lot waiting to get out and I start to pull out it trys to die on me.
I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
View 11 RepliesI have a 01 Ford excursion 7.3 auto and it will not start unless you jump the starter relay, I have replaced the starter, starter relay and swapped out batteries from my 2000 F250 auto, not sure what to do and this is my daily driver. Not sure if this matters but just had the transmission rebuilt. I have tried searching other threads but still not finding what I need. Once it starts it runs and drives. When you turn the key you hear a click like a relay is engaging and all of the lights and gauges work it just won't start with the key.
View 2 Replies2001 F-350, 7.3L,
Has done this off & on for a few years and am tired of it! Noise is kind of a buzzing that seems to come from the flasher/turn signal relay. It stops buzzing when you turn on a turn signal, activate the flashers, or lift up on the shifter arm(?). Had to drive home yesterday with the flashers on! So I see from researching that it may actually be the multi-funtion switch on the steering column. So I removed that, cleaned up all the contacts, and put it back on and the buzzing did not go away.