Prius (2001-03) :: Loud Hum During Regen Breaking / Low Mpg - P3000 And P3009
Sep 15, 2014
Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
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I need assitance on the following diagnostic report. My prius shows:-
1. Red triangle with exclamation mark,
2. On the LCD red car with exclamation mark,
3. ABS sign - on and off.
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I am working on a 2003 Prius with 120k. It died when the owner was coming to a stop. He had it towed to the dealer who told him it needed an inverter and quoted $4600 to replace it. I replaced the inverter with a used unit from a wrecked car. After clearing the codes the car starts and runs but after a few minutes the triangle of death comes back and codes P3000 and P3009 are set.
Battery voltages are as follows.
Where the best place to start diagnosing the leak is ?
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Could a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
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The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
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A warning came on the display with the words "PS Main" and a picture of a battery. I took it to a dealer and he gave me the bad news: I allegedly need a new hybrid (main) battery. The diagnostic code was P3009--I didn't know about sub-codes, so I didn't ask if there were any. P3009 means that there is an electrical leak from the main battery.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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I have a 2003 Prius with a hard falt code of P3000 main battery bad! But there is not anything wrong with the batt or how it runs. I cleared the code and in 10 miles or so it comes right back? I was thinking of a reflash on the computer, what to do?
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I would like to understand what this reports mean.
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I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
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My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
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I picked up a 2004 Prius with 150k. It has no check engine light and no codes with a scangauge. I hooked it up to a mini-vci with techstream and found the following: P3009-526, C1310 and B1421. The car will only start if you reset codes, then after a few minutes of running the red triangle comes back.
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I bought an '01 prius with more than 160,000 miles last year , until now it's been a great car , averaging 46-ish mpg , now , a couple days ago I used it to jump-start a diesel truck connecting the cables directly to the auxiliary battery , the truck started after a 2 or 3 mins, the next day the known red triangle and the red car with the (!) appeared , the dealer reads code p3009 (hv leak) but were not able to give me any subcodes. Is it possible that the computer interpreted the sudden "pull" of current from the converter (via the 12v battery) as a hv leak ?
I got the reading of the 19 modules of the traction battery and all are within 0.5 volts of each other , so I hope they are all within tolerance , and the car seems to run just fine.
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I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank.
The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it.
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My 2006 Toyota Prius with 130k miles i had the 12v battery replaced 4 months ago because I had the dashboard not turning on when starting the car. I drive about 200 miles everyday for work (deliveries) so the car basically is turned on all day.
Last week when I got home turned off my prius when I turned it back on later that night the dashboard would not turn on. Tried disconnecting the 12v battery and still no dashboard. Drove around like that for two days until Friday when suddenly the dashboard turned on and everything was fine.
Later that night I turned on the prius and the dashboard didn't turn on again, shut it off and turned it back on, dashboard turned on.
Now the big issue: The ICE does not want to turn on. Vsc and abs lights with the triangle of death are on. Code reader wasn't showing any codes.
I towed the prius to my mechanic so I wouldn't get stranded with only the electric motor running, he checked the 12v battery, fuses and relays. Moving the car around on his lot they discharged the hybrid battery. At first there were still no check engine light and no codes. Now the prius is throwing the p3000 code.
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Prius III -- I do all in-town driving with display in HSI mode. When braking, I have naively assumed that the length of the CHG bar corresponds with regen braking capacity -- fill the bar and you're starting to add friction brake. So when stopping distances permit, I try to brake gradually enough to keep a bit of space past the end of the CHG bar -- means I'm playing with brake pressure the whole length of a typical freeway exit ramp.
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The other day I was driving down my street which is a decent grade (you have to curb your tires when parking) ... in normal drive mode at about 20mph with my foot off the accelerator pedal, I get about 10amps of charging as I coast down the hill. (I was in ECO mode, ICE fully warmed up)
For no reason I put the car into B without doing anything else and suddenly I'm getting about 25+ amps of regen. Going back to D instantly put it back to 10 amps.
I haven't explored this option fully, but it seems like the trick is to use B only once ICE is off under 43mph and you are slowing down. This will give you a nice regen boost (and slow you faster) without the brake lights being on. Just go back to D before you start driving again.
Up until this point I found B mode mostly useless.....
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My wife was driving the Prius today and triggered P3000 code, the triangle popped up and the battery blower fan runs full on. I of course googled it and see it can be due to battery overheating? How should i go about trouble shooting this?
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I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
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So I received the P1121 and took it to the dealer. They told me I also had a P3000. I called another dealer and they said the P3000 could be caused by the P1121 not giving it enough coolant. So I brought it back to the house, bought the valve listed in the forums, and I spent all day changing that + the coolant. I drained the coolant and between the reservoir and the radiator cap itself I refilled about 4 QT, and I saw that my inverter coolant was just below the low line, so I filled it up to the full line. Afterwards, I tried to get the coolant to flow, and it seems like I won't flow. The check engine light immediately came back on and the car said, "Problem." So I immediately shut it off and let it set for a few days. How do I get it so that the coolant starts flowing again. I haven't seen any of the levels move whatsoever on the radiator.
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I was driving my 2005 Toyota Prius and all of a sudden some lights came on the dash. The orange check engine light, The big red Triangle with an exclamation mark on it, the orange VSC symbol, and the orange exclamation mark all at once. I also heard the fans in the back seat kicked in which I never heard before. It felt as though the car didn't have much acceleration. I took it to the dealer and they had it a whole week trying to figure out what it was wrong. They said they got the P3000 INF 123 code from the car which they said the HV control ECM for $2000. Needless to say I don't want to pay that! I found used ECM on ebay for $85 and I bought a scangauge 2 . I pulled 2 different codes out with the scan gauge 2 P0A80 and P3021.
Do you think the dealer diagnosis is right? What does the codes I read out mean?
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