Prius (2001-03) :: Key Won't Come Out Of Ignition
Mar 10, 2011
I just bought a 03 Prius at a car auction. the key was in it and it started just fine so I drove it 150 miles home with no problems. Parked it and tried to remove the key but it will only turn counter-clockwise to ACC, no further, so I can't pull it out. I took the steering wheel cover off, pulled the ignition out and once it's out the key rolls all the way over just fine but when I put it back in it still does the same thing. I've lubed it--makes no difference. If the battery cable is disconnected it will roll all the way over and come out but once I put power back to it it stops at ACC again.
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I thought I would try and resolve this issue while I wait for the battery module to arrive.
I read through all of the past articles relating to my issue with no luck of resolution.
When the car is turned off, the steering wheel never locks. Even when I rock the steering wheel left and right it never locks.
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Today I was unable to turn the ignition key to start the car. It is not the steering interlock, and no amount of wiggling while turning will get the ignition to turn. I tried both the keys I have (1 master and one valet key). Both keys are quite worn, but it seems unlikely that a new key from Toyota will be the answer.
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I noticed yesterday that my 2001 was stumbling when turning left. Later in the day, the CEL came on, and I retrieved a P0301 code. In both cases, I was driving around town, not cold but not fully warmed up, engine temp around 40-70 C.
I haven't done any further investigation, other than trying some different driving experiments. I've been able to recreate the problem several times starting out with a left turn when the car briefly runs on three cylinders. Going straight or turning right is fine.
Question: which cylinder is #1? My intent is to check the plugs and leads first, but since it's cold outside I'd like to focus my attention as much as possible on the problem area. I thought at first it might be fuel related because of the turning behavior, but on reflection, it feels more like an ignition issue.
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Our 2001 Prius has recently been having problems with the steering wheel locking (not in a position where this would be normal/expected, but in random positions--takes several minutes of wiggling and turning the car on and off to get it unlocked) and the key getting stuck in the ignition (just as if the car weren't in park, except that it is). They might be unrelated, but started occurring at the same time.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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Got a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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My 2001 Saab 9-5 wagon has ignition problems. The key will not turn the ignition. It fits in but will not turn. It's a manual, so I can't get out of reverse. It will not move and I'm a long way from a Saab dealer. The key will activate the locks, etc., and the radio will come on.
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2001 Honda CRV. Key will not turn. Lights work, steering wheel is not locked up, clutch in but key will not respond.Interior light goes on when key removed. Key will simply not turn.
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I got up on a rainy monday morning to go to work put the key into the ignition and no turnover occurred. Not even a click. Looked like the car had plenty of juice though. Right now my poor car is just sittin' in the driveway. 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6
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My 2002 Elantra GT has been turning off while driving. The radio, lights, and other accessories remain on. The car doesn't lurch but all of the dash lights come on like when you're first starting a car. I was able to restart the car after about 10 min the first time and 5 min the second time it happened. 1 week between episodes.
Brought it to the garage and they couldn't find a problem while letting it run for 30 min. Also, there are no error codes. What could be wrong?
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Just started having issues with my door chimes this morning.
Hopped in, started up, and now the door chime will not go until I take the key out of ignition. All doors are shut, seatbelt fastened. No lights on dash, no open doors.
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I have 2 spark plugs not firing. one of the three ignition coils does not fire, the other two do, is the most likely culprit be the ignition control module? car has the 3.8 motor.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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When I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
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