Prius (2001-03) :: Heat Gauge Shows Up For 30 Seconds Then CEL Came On
Jan 30, 2015
2001 Prius. It started few months back where I get all kind of codes and the heat gauge shows up for like 30 seconds then the Triangle and Check Engine shows up. I used to pull over and disconnect the 12V battery but I found later on that the car would keep going fine even with all the Gauges on. I did replace the air filter. The issue almost gone away when the weather got colder. I just had to reset the battery after 40 mile or so.
Now, the overheat light comes on and after few seconds, the car just lose power and wouldn't respond to the gas. I have to disconnect the 12V battery or sometimes I just have to turn the car off for a minute or two and that might clear the lights for the overheat. The other day I turn the heater on to see if that would cool the car. Inside the car it was hot as hell but when I pulled over and checked the Radiator water, it was as cold. Is it possible it is the transmission that gets hot? The car now as not having enough power even just when I drive it while it is still cold. The only code I get is c1259. unplug the 12V battery and plug it back in is not clearing this code.
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I been having this issue when I drive to 0 miles left on gauge, then fill it at gas station and it clicks like its full, but shows only 8.5-9 gallons? And fuel gauge shows 1 bar missing from full.
2011 66k miles
Took to dealer and they replaced gauge module and was ok for 2 fill ups but now its doing it again.
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Been driving for 3 days now for a total of about 100 miles from a full tank averaging 50 miles per gallon. I noticed the gauge still shows FULL. Not even a bar below or something. Is there anything wrong with my gauge?
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I use a scangauge to monitor the traction battery in my 2001 prius. Today when I started the car to come home, the alarm triangle came on, but the scangauge shows no codes found. The car ran fine and got me home, but what the alarm is about.
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So I fill up today, 20plus gallons, the gauge shows near empty prior fill-up and after it is very very slow to show full. First I was confused and to make certain I filled again but the tank is full.. So, I guess a) the gauge is just slow to react or b) the sending unit called it quits or c)
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Why, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
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I am working on this 99 Nissan and the issue is that the gauge shows the truck is over heating ,so we changed the thermostat ,the temp sending unit and that other thing next to that,and flushed the coolant system and bleed the system with new antifreeze and fresh water for the correct mixture..The truck still says its over heating ,the top hose hot and the bottom hose not anything more then it is when the truck hasn't been running.The truck starts right up and seems to run very well,then the gauge maxes right out and then wait for it to cool according to the temp gauge and drive a bit more,with in a mile its over heating again according to the gauge..I checked the oil and its perfectly fine and normal !I am so lost here,the radiator is like new and the clutch fan works right ,checked all the hoses and they are not collapsing ,water pump replaced a year ago...
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My 94 Camry 4 cyl fuel gauge seems to be broke. It always shows empty. The "fuel warning" light doesn't come on however. The last time it worked, I had about 1/2 tank and filled it up. It took several minutes for the gauge to creep up to full. It worked for a few days and then when i started the car this evening, the gauge showed empty and tays on empty.
What is the most likely issue here? I've read that it could be the sending unit, bad wiring or the gauge itself. All other dashboard gauges are working fine.
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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Here is my car info:
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1994 Ford Escort LX (Wagon)
1.9L SEFI engine
Just installed a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt (the car was running great)
Here is the exact sequence of events that caused the issue:
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I was working on the car
I backed up on to wheel ramps so that I could check the exhaust
I noticed that the car was idling high, so I removed and lubed the IAC with WD-40
I put the IAC back in place with grey RTV and tightened it down ( It's not leaking at all )
Here are the exact symptoms:
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I turn on the ignition switch
The fuel pump pumps and sounds normal
The Fuel gauge shows about 3/4 tank (which is accurate... I recently filled the tank)
The low fuel light comes on (which makes no sense to me)
When I turn the ignition to the start position, the car cranks and sounds normal, but it doesn't even attempt to run. When I crank the car the Low Fuel light goes off, but the Fuel Cutoff light comes on (only while cranking). I also notice a slight smell of gasoline, but I can't find any fuel leaking or dripping anywhere!
What I've tried:
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Looking for fuel leaks ( can't find any). Made sure the IAC is properly connected.
Verified and tested the Inertia switch in the right rear of the car ( it is working properly and has not been tripped). When I trip it, the fuel pump does not run. When I reset it the fuel pump works properly again.
Disconnected the + battery cable for 5 minutes or more in an attempt to reset the ECU. It didn't work. Symptoms remain the same.
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I have noticed when I hook-up my camper that when driving and turning on the turn signals, I get a double arrow in the speedo gauge with a number 1 between the arrows. All the lights are functional on the camper.
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I just bought my 2012 Elantra Limited from the dealer today . The fuel gauge showed about two bars, a quarter tank I estimated. However when I went to fuel it, the pump clicked off after about 1 gallon, indicating the tank was full.
That was odd so I just figured there was some air in the tank or in the hose, so I tried adding some more fuel. I got about a half gallon more added when it clicked off again. Well, I know you're not supposed to top off the tank so I tried to add more. Got about two gallons added when it clicked off. I stopped fueling at that point for fear of causing damage.
My fuel gauge now shows a little less than half full. How can that be? Is there something I can do to fix this?
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I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.
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2005 f350 6.0, parked in my shop and the batteries were dead after 2 weeks on vacation, (I left a few items plugged into 12vdc ports charging) charged it up and started right up. Next day cruising down the road about 75 the wrench icon showed up, strange. I reviewed my scan gauge and only thing not correct was my boost, it was 20lbs plus, idles at 14lbs. dash gauge appears normal.
Next morning I turned on the key, turned on my scan gauge engine is not running and the reading show 14.4lbs on my scan gauge. so..... adding the 14.4 to the scan gauge reading thru the drive cycle. so my computer thinks it is seeing 20-30 boost during acceleration. A bad sensor......... but don't know which one.
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2003 Prius - 213 K miles on it.
Problem: Sporadic heat this winter and sporadic a/c in last summer. (Freezing to death)
I've taken it to two mechanics and they both stated that it is a electrical issue and the a/c clutch was check and it was good. It does have code 22. Where the A/C relays and the Heater relays are?
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I just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
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I own 01 Prius with 223K miles, No heat or AC working. Only get outside air. Here is the code I am getting: 3, 3, 4, 1, 4, 2, 4, 3.
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I have a 2002 Prius that isn't blowing any heat. During the winter it wasn't blowing cold air so I put some freon in it and it leaked out I guess. So I added another can or two and the a/c stayed cold longer.
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I haven't driven the Prius for months. The other day, I needed it and tried to start it up but of course, it was dead. I should have known that would happen but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to these things.
So, I jumped it with another car, making sure not to reverse the polarity by doing it wrong (I think I did okay) and sure enough it started...for about 5 seconds and then died. The car we were using to jump it was on just like the manual said and we pushed it to 2,000 RPM again, just like the manual said. We tried it again and it comes on for about 5 seconds and then goes right back off. We even juiced it for about 3 minutes straight at 2,000 RPM and same result.
The display comes on and the icon with a car and an exclamation mark is red. What should I do? I guess the v12 battery is dead?
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At 145k my radiator seems to be leaking. Eventually I'll be at the point where heat blows ice cold. Where should I get a radiator?
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I'm headed north in a couple days to the frigid regions of the country and I little worried cause my blower fan is now completely non-functioning (no heat, no defrost ). It came on a couple times since I bought it recently, usually after hitting a bump and stayed on for a while, but now it hasn't come on at all in a while. I checked all the fuses, they all looked good.
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