Prius (2001-03) :: HV Battery Removal To Clean And Remove Corrosion?
Dec 29, 2011
I'm thinking about removing my perfectly functioning HV Battery to inspect it for corrosion and clean if necessary. I read so many posts both here and elsewhere that talk about corrosion being the number one reason Gen I HV Batteries fail. With that in mind, does it make sense to clean the corrosion off the battery (and related components) in an effort to extend the life of the battery.
The car is an '01 with 109,XXX miles, original traction battery, new 12V battery. The car has been very good to me (I believe that's due to steadfast preventative maintenance). There are no error codes and really nothing to complain about.
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I've got the hybrid battery out of the car and there is a decent amount of corrosion/acid on the copper contacts. I read that after cleaning them off with white vinegar and soaking in a baking soda/warm water mix... They spray some type of anti-corrosion spray on them.
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Was cleaning my car yesterday and noticed what looked like fluff through the battery vent in the rear seat.
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
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So, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.
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We got a certified used 370Z about 4-5 months ago from a Nissan dealership. The car was great until we happened to look underneath at around the 3 month mark and noticed that there was a TON of corrosion under the front passenger side. We had not even had the oil changed in the car- it was exactly as it was when we got it from the dealer. We took it back to them, and they said the battery had been overfilled and had leaked all over the car. Now it is in with them, and they say they have to remove the engine in order to sandblast it. They also happened to mention that they wish they had caught it before because if they had they never would have certified it.
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My new to my 2013 f150 needs the terminal replaced due to corrosion. Need the p/n for just the terminal not the whole cable.
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Buddy is fixing his 6.0 2005 F450 with a blown turbo. Diagnosed by the dealer, but decided we could fix it ourselves. The dealer quoted a turbo and to pull the charge air cooler and clean. It looks like the turbo job is not too bad to do, but how big of a job is the R&R of the charge air cooler?
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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How to remove the combination meter on an '02? Any place to down load the repair manual pages that covers this?
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Bought a prius off craigslist that didn't have a hybrid battery. Replaced it with a used reinvolt battery off ebay. Car starts right up now. However, there's a few things wrong with it. I can't get the key out of the ignition and the brakes are soft. Could these be related?
I have a fully charged and known good 12v battery in the car. And when I remove it, the key comes right out. If I bleed the brakes, do you think that will solve the problem?
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I thought I would try and resolve this issue while I wait for the battery module to arrive.
I read through all of the past articles relating to my issue with no luck of resolution.
When the car is turned off, the steering wheel never locks. Even when I rock the steering wheel left and right it never locks.
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I have removed knuckle assembly and pressed out bearing hub assembly, I have the new bearing hub assembly..... I live in Iowa so there is corrosion on the knuckle assembly - I have removed enough that the new bearing assembly will go in....
My question/concern : With the corrosion removed the surface of the knuckle where the bearing will seat is not uniform all the way around. The bearing hub assembly will go in and will require pressure to do so but will the bearing last? I can buy a steering knuckle but do not want to if I don't have to.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I'm trying to remove the throttle body on my 2002 Echo. However, the transmission dipstick tube is in the way of one of the throttle body bolts. How can I remove the transmission dipstick tube so that I can remove the throttle body?
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I was having problems with my 2010 Prius, when I would try to put gas in it the pump would cut off after a small amount of gas. It would take quite a while to fill up the car. I took it to a Toyota Dealer and the problem was a plugged up charcoal canister, which they cleaned out. I live on a gravel road.
My question is, how to clean out the canisters? Can you just use an air hose? I'm sure running around with a plugged up canister can not be good for the car.
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I'm looking at 2010 Prius III. It doesn't have the Nav package.
What options are there that could add a good, clean backup cam and Nav system? Also, are there any aftermarket solutions for a "whiter" headlight?
In non-projector cars, I know you can get whiter bulbs (higher kelvin), but not sure about in the projectors.
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When I did the PCV valve on my wife's car it looked like nothing more than a metal housing with a ball bearing rattling around inside. That left me wondering, why not just clean and reinstall the original valve? Is there a reason why that wouldn't be nearly as good? I realize it's a $10 part but I have to ask the question before I go buy another for my own car.
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I'm conflicted about the white console--not sure I like the looks, but I'm very concerned about keeping it clean. Would love to hear from those of you who've owned it for a while. Also am wondering how hard is it to keep the moonstone cloth or softex clean.
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my dealer said the fuel injectors needed cleaning on my 04 toyoto prius (77000mi). this service is not in my maintenance schedule. Is it a come on ($55) or a good prevention item?
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