Prius (2001-03) :: Error Code 1554 - Power Steering Won't Working
Oct 3, 2010
I have just won a Mk 1 Prius on eBay and hope I have made a good choice - not having seen the car! There is an error code: 1554 which apparently is why the power steering isn't working
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I have a 2001 Prius with almost 224,000 miles. It has never had any power steering problems during the 7.5 years that I have owned it. About 10 days ago during a heavy rain, I parked it nose down on a driveway that was steeply inclined. The next morning when I started it there was no power steering. I find that the un-powered steering is not all that bad to drive. About like a 1939 Ford. Correction requires replacing the entire steering system, including the rack. Can I use the steering system from a 2003 to avoid recurrence of the problem? If so, does the replacement process differ from using a 2001 system?
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VSC, ABS triangle warning! Error code POA85 ... We took the car apart and basically found the error with the fan it's not working. When you connect the battery to the fan it's working perfectly. The fan motor resistor is overheating is this the problem? Or should it be very hot.
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Previous thread (with new subject title) on my 06 Prius losing steering and brakes while driving with multiple errors (red triangle, battery, etc.) while braking on steep down hill section of hwy 17 (mountain road). Took car to dealer but dealer could not find the root cause.
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keep on getting this error code....I think I have exhaust leak , Would that trigger this code ?....is an Exhaust leak is considered a Vacuum leak??
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My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
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Could a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
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The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
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This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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Got a P0001 error , Fuel volume regulator stuck opened....where is the fuel volume regulator is located on a first Gen. Prius?
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I am having a power steering problem with my 2006 santa fe, been going on for a couple weeks and I am stumped on what is wrong with it, what I noticed is turning to the left or right and very hard to turn and sometimes it will be fine and other times its the left or right.. What could be going on here? there is no leaks or noises noted, it has 242,000 kms on it. fluid is full but a little brown and smells a bit burnt. I know it will need a flush but would that be the solution or would it be something else?
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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I can't get the key out off the ignition with out playing around with the shifter button and brake pedal, an error talking about a steering column lock shows up some times.
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My car (jetta 2002 1.8t) have the error code p0501 even if the speedo is working. I replaced the speed sensor just to make sure.
If I erase the code, and drive no matter how far/fast I go, the check light doesn't turns on. But as soon as I turn of the car and drive again it does comes on.
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I've checked the lines from the Purge Valve on the Passenger side of the Intake Manifold, Check OK
I've Checked that Valve OK
I've Replaced the Canister Close Valve
I've got the Gas Cap tight.
I've removed the rubber bushing holding the CCV to the Evap Canister, hoping to isolate the Filter and point the blame on it, no luck there!!
I'm thinking next is to drop the Tank and check over all the Goodies on top.... as much as I hate the thought of that, the two access holes under the seats, just don't allow access to enough of the tank!
any thing there that I could suspect, I see there's a check valve!
There's also the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, which may be at fault.
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Have 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
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It seems that i'm most likely going to have to replace the entire plenum .
P1159 here are some details. [URL]..................
I've checked all connecting wires and none appear to be loose. When the issue started to occur and prior to discovering the P1159 code, I also replaced all coils. I replaced the coils because one was arching over to the metal of the engine. I assumed this may be my problem. The issue still persisted obviously. The check engine light never came on so I assumed I wouldn't get a code. I took it over to a friends house with a code reader and that's when I discovered that it was actually giving the P1159 code.
Are there any other model cars that utilize the same engine that I could use the plenum from? Getting this in working condition is going to be the difference in what I can get for it.
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2001 1.5L 5-speed Accent
I did a search on this problem and found several people posted the same P0121 code. Strangely many people wrote that replacing TPS did NOT fix it. The code came back in 30 miles or so. Most of them didn't follow up what finally fixed it and only 2 people did by saying they got the code cleared by fixing/replacing:
1. Leak in the intake manifold, bad plug wires, etc.
2. New Head & ECM.
Is there any known fix for the P0121 on Accent 1.5L other than above?
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So i've had this volvo for about 6 months now.I knew when I purchased it that the two codes being thrown were p0128-Engine coolant temperature, and p0420- Cat efficiency Bank 1.Inspecting mechanic said it needed a new cat to clear the p0420....I went ahead replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to "fix" the p0128, and cleared the codes, I think the jiffy lube state inspector did not notice the that the catalytic converter test was Incomplete when he passed it. Lucky me I guess.
But now I know that I'll probably have to fix before it gets inspected again. Eventually the p0128 came back on, so I went and got a new ECT sensor. Still doesn't clear the p0128. What am i missing? Coolant temperature sits at a 3'oclock position pretty regularly and quickly. Where to start on the p0420 besides understanding its the Pre-cat o2 sensor that is throwing the code, is there anyway that these are related?
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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I have a 2003 diesel GS Santa Fe, every now and then when driving the ABS light comes on, not very often but it does, if I switch the ignition off and restart it goes out, I had it on a fault finder computer and it showed code c1274, I think its something to do with the G sensor and the way it breaks (ABS) is it an easy fault to fix? What are the costs involved and will it affect the driving of the car, like I say it rarely comes on and I don't notice any change in how it drives.
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