Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Runs Then Stalls / P3191 Code - Oil In Intake Manifold?
Feb 20, 2013
Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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Some technical issues here. Had the intake manifold replaced under extended warranty ('09 2.0 TSI, 115,000km); they cleaned out the carbon as well. There were all sorts of codes it was throwing, despite having new coils and plugs installed.
One more thing to do. I still have Crank Position Sensor code showing. Car runs fine (much better now actually),but I was told if I don't get this last code looked after, one day the car just won't start.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan S 4Motion with just over 63k Miles which for the most part has been problem free and great to drive since I leased it at 40k miles. About 2 weeks ago my CEL came on and I used the Torque app on my phone to check the code and it was the apparently well known P2015 intake manifold runner position switch code. The car was running perfectly fine so I cleared the code and it stayed off for about a week before coming back on with the same fault again yesterday. I have a couple of questions for the much more knowledgeable than I people in this forum around this code.
First - I've read in several places that VW has placed an extended warranty on the manifold and fuel injectors for the 2.0 TSI and that this code is usually an indicator that the manifold needs to be replaced under this warranty. What I haven't found though is conclusive info on is whether the 2.0T in my 2011 Tiguan is covered under this extended warranty. Since this code so conveniently is popping up just 3k miles past the end of my 60K mark, I'd like to know this. I leased the car from Enterprise, not a dealer so I'm worried that whatever dealer I take it too will try to bend me over on the service so the knowledge that the manifold is still covered would be at least some comfort.
Second - I won't be able to get it in to a service department until mid next week and I have a 300 mile trip to make this weekend. The car is driving fine as far as I can tell so I'm not overly concerned. I do my own basic maintenance i.e. oil changes, plugs/coil packs etc. but I'm thinking changing the manifold would be a little bit out of my comfort zone..
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Is it safe to drive my '02 with the triangle on the dash? I've tried to get rid of it, throttle body cleaned, MAF cleaned, battery seems good (13v, no load). What else can I do to try and get rid of it? BTW, '02 Prius, 183K mi. It runs good, cycles on and off normally (motor to battery, etc.). The code clears it self after sitting about a week w/ occasional starts, then I drive it for about 50-70 miles and the light comes back on...
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I have 98 windstar, p1538 code, IMRC. I have physically checked both IMRC's and they are functioning as they should. (if they were bad, they would not move at all right?) Assuming they are good, which step in the troubleshooting process I go to now? The van runs perfect, just that darn light! Do I start going for the O2 sensor now? What to next in the chain of troubleshooting?
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I was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
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2.4 Santa Fe ... I just took my Car to MOT inspection and found out there's a leak at my intake manifold and it's coming out of this place. it feels like brake fluid but my brake fluid is full?? I have seen many cars but never seen a part like this before. what is it doing there and why is it leaking ?
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What are signs the intake manifold may be cracked? 2001 V10 Excursion....
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Check Engine Code P2006 intake manifold runner control stuck on closed? Taking it in to have it checked out.
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How many bolts actually holding the intake manifold onto the heads. Are there more inside the plenium when you take the top off or can you remove the unit as one piece to replace the intake manifold gaskets?
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
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My parents' Gen 1 2003 Prius, at 99,030 miles, wouldn't start, and I thought I'd share the problem description and the fix that worked for me, for others who see the same symptoms.
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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Leaking intake manifold gaskets on General Motors 3.1L V6 engines? Mine is a 1998 Grand Am with low milage (40K) and I have been told I need to spend $900 to replace the intake manifold gasket because it is leaking antifreeze into the engine oil.
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I have a 01 vr6 mk4 gti. When I bought the car I noticed a rattle but never paid mind to it. But now I just want it fixed. I hear the rattle come from the back of the engine near the intake manifold when I rev it a little. The most rpms the louder the rattle . I been doing some research and came to a conclusion that it could be the shift rod and bad intake bushing. But, I'll like a link on how to replace the shift rod.
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