So My battery seems ok but the engine is running when I'm stopped a lot the last couple of days. I also hear a click from under the hood every once in a while like something is turning on.
Trying to even the voltage on a cell? I'm in SoCal but it's not hot or cold out.
I drive a 2003 Golf 2.0 manual. I've had this problem happen to me four times in my year-and-a-half of ownership -- once about three months ago and three times today.
Whether at highway or city speeds (60+ MPH or 30 MPH, respectively), power to the accelerator cuts out without warning. The engine briefly sounds like it's working overtime (but it could just be my foot on the accelerator pedal) and the tachometer needle struggles to stay at the RPMs. In a matter of seconds, the engine stalls and the needle gradually starts to fall. I can't tell you how dangerous of a situation this is to be in: 65 MPH on the highway with vehicles all around you, your car chokes, and you're losing speed.
The first time this happened to me three months ago, I had to hit my emergency lights and pull over to the highway shoulder. Turning the ignition off, then on, and attempting to start the car didn't work. I thought I was in trouble. Then I removed the key and tried it again. It was successful. I got to my destination (my parent's home) and they recommended I go see their regular mechanic for an inspection. He told me that the problem could be low fuel in the tank, as I did at the time. When the car's fuel tank is at a certain angle, the fuel pump doesn't pump fuel properly, messing up the whole combustion, and causing the car to stall. This explanation fit the situation I was in perfectly, as the fuel indicator had just come on when it occurred.
Today, the fuel indicator was just above the last 1/8 -- no fuel warning light -- and the car stalls three times (once on the highway to work, once on the highway home with no shoulders to pull over, and once on city road). I had prior experience about this and drive a manual, so I have attempted each time today to re-start the car while at speed. It was a scary situation the second time today: 9:30pm, dark, modest amount of cars on the road, on a twisty highway with no shoulders (California Highway 110 between Downtown and Pasadena) where each time you turn the ignition off, the headlights go out, the steering wheel goes stiff, and you're decelerating. Fortunately, I dropped only 25 MPH to 40 when I got the car running again when I remembered to remove the key first before re-starting.
Needless to say, rather than wait two days to get cheap gas at Costco (b/c I work tomorrow as well), I went to the 76 near my home and filled her up . Hopefully, this situation will not happen again, as I will be a lot more diligent about keeping gas in my tank.
A few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
View 1 Replies2001 Prius. Within 15 seconds of starting the engine, I captured the screeching sound from the engine bay. Noise went away after about 20 seconds. New serpentine belt and new 12v battery installed. Pass dealer 27-point check. Transmission fluid, inverter fluid, high voltage battery were replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Current mileage 174,000.
Noise is not from the serpentine belt. I attached a mp3 file of the sound. "2001 Prius Noise.MP3" ..... Which component is making this noise?
My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
View 7 RepliesI have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
View 9 RepliesRecently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
View 8 RepliesI have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Prius makes this sound when the engine is running. All the battery lights are on all the time, I think it needs a new HV battery but I'm not sure if it's worth it. Perhaps the other battery is faulty I really don't know. All the engine lights are on and if the brake light comes on it starts shaking or the power steering fails or it just completely shuts off on the road no lights no power steering nothing. When that happens I use a battery booster that I keep in my trunk to get it going again but it's really dangerous to drive now.
View 3 RepliesI got this problem for 10 days and by the time to take my car to the auto shop it turned out that now I cannot start the engine at all. I started to hear that the starter is still running for a second or two after I switch on the engine but I was busy and was not able to leave the car for a check. Well, this morning the car gave up and refused to start at all.
Before I blame the starter I was thinking about the ignition lock although I didn't noticed anything problematic with it. I think that the battery is OK since I didn't lost the radio and I still can operate the windows as well.
Am I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
Hopped in the car this morning and found the front wipers running intermittently (every 5 sec) no matter what setting is selected--they can't be shut off.
View 5 RepliesI am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
Winter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
I had a Viper 5701 installed and it only stays on for 20 seconds then shuts down as if I was pressing the brake pedal. What is the work around? The hand held computer says the alarm is set for 12 minutes.
View 3 RepliesI haven't driven the Prius for months. The other day, I needed it and tried to start it up but of course, it was dead. I should have known that would happen but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to these things.
So, I jumped it with another car, making sure not to reverse the polarity by doing it wrong (I think I did okay) and sure enough it started...for about 5 seconds and then died. The car we were using to jump it was on just like the manual said and we pushed it to 2,000 RPM again, just like the manual said. We tried it again and it comes on for about 5 seconds and then goes right back off. We even juiced it for about 3 minutes straight at 2,000 RPM and same result.
The display comes on and the icon with a car and an exclamation mark is red. What should I do? I guess the v12 battery is dead?
My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
View 23 RepliesI'm also having an issue with these lights/buzzer on my 2002 since last weekend. Probably about one in every five starts, the brake/ABS warning lights/buzzer come on for around five to ten seconds and then go off. Braking appears to be fine. I'm thinking the brake system is taking too long to pressurize on starting. The car has run fine and brakes have worked fine after this has happened. Brake fluid level is fine. Do these warning lights/buzzer usually stay on, with an issue, or is this intermittent lights upon starting how it normally shows a problem? And yes, I am going to see about finally ordering a mini VCI and also read the blink codes. Dealer is 50 miles from home so I'm trying to figure out what is going on prior to heading that way, as I don't want to have an issue on the drive there.
View 7 Replies2001 Prius. It started few months back where I get all kind of codes and the heat gauge shows up for like 30 seconds then the Triangle and Check Engine shows up. I used to pull over and disconnect the 12V battery but I found later on that the car would keep going fine even with all the Gauges on. I did replace the air filter. The issue almost gone away when the weather got colder. I just had to reset the battery after 40 mile or so.
Now, the overheat light comes on and after few seconds, the car just lose power and wouldn't respond to the gas. I have to disconnect the 12V battery or sometimes I just have to turn the car off for a minute or two and that might clear the lights for the overheat. The other day I turn the heater on to see if that would cool the car. Inside the car it was hot as hell but when I pulled over and checked the Radiator water, it was as cold. Is it possible it is the transmission that gets hot? The car now as not having enough power even just when I drive it while it is still cold. The only code I get is c1259. unplug the 12V battery and plug it back in is not clearing this code.
I have a 2001 BMW X5 with some ticking/clicking noises coming from around the engine area and I would like to know what those may be due to. Here are the two videos that I have posted: [URL] .... I have done my homework to look at a bunch of vids online about cars with similar noises and possibilities for the noise are valves, belt, rods, bearings, spark plugs, etc.
View 5 Replies