Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Off After Warm Up And Wandering At Interstate Speeds
May 2, 2011
Wondering if this is just my car or something that's common with the Gen 1? After my car gets warmed up, just over 150F, the first stop or coast the engine will shut off. But unless I stop again and wait the 5 seconds or so for the engine to stop, I can't get it to shut off again down a hill or coasting. I need to stop, let it shut off, then after that all is good. Lift foot, engine off. Drives me nuts when I have a long hill and it doesn't shut off! (I'm using a scan guage II to watch the rpm and water temp)
Also a question on the steering, we took a 550 mile trip this past weekend, all interstate. Although it was a little windy, the car takes constant steering input to keep it in the center of the lane. It did get old after that many miles! Common problem? I read a little on the Gen2 having problems like that but the solution was dealer adjustments. The previous owner did have a new rack put in in 2008.
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Just got an alignment done on my truck because it was squeekin and wandering on the interstate. I read the thread on the control arm / ball joint fix and was going to do the job since I thought they were probably shot with 187k mi. on them. I'm second owner so I dont know if orig owner ever had them replaced. I squirted some grease in the pitman arm boot and one of the ball joints that had a tear in it. I was wondering if any one tried drilling and tapping in a zerk fitting where they are accessible on the center link. There is a raised top on the joints that looks like it might be made for doing that but I dont know how thick the metal is and dont want to ruin it.
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My wife and I have owned our '08 Corolla since brand new. It is up to 162,000 miles now, and has developed a fairly serious handling issue. The car wanders at highway speeds (60mph+). This generally only occurs with some wind, on a long straight without wind you can take your hands off the wheel and it goes straight without issues. With wind, either natural or from nearby vehicles, it wanders around even if you're in a long sweeping turn. It doesn't weave totally out of a lane, but it does feel very unstable. On dry roads it's mostly a nuisance, requiring two hands and being tiring. If it's raining, however, the car feels like it's trying to hydroplane constantly, although I don't think it's actually hydroplaning that's just the sensation.
It started probably 20,000 miles ago and has gotten dramatically worse in the last ~5,000. I took it to a shop and asked them to go through the suspension and they gave it a clean bill of health. After that I took it in for tires and an alignment (needed tires anyway) and told the tire shop what I was experiencing. They put 4 new tires on, plus an alignment, and said they didn't find anything wrong with it either. As an aside it's running the stock steel wheels still.
I drive 50 miles each way to work, mostly highway, so this is getting to be a serious problem. It's to the point that I drive my truck when it's going to be raining, and white-knuckle it in the corolla when it's dry out. I've read similar accounts, and checked everything that other people have found to cause similar issues, and so have two shops. Tierod ends and control arm bushings are good. The rack seems good (no play at all in the steering wheel) plus I've driven plenty of vehicles with slop in the steering and they didn't feel like this and only tended to wander when going straight because a sweeping turn takes the play out of the steering. The struts are original all around, but the car easily passes the "bounce test". Is there a better way to check them?
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I have a 01 f250, owned it for about 8 months now. Have done a ton of work to it, replacing all worn out parts. It's a v10, replaced so far is ball joints, all tie rods, steering dampener, front sway bar links and bushings and Monroe gas Magnum shocks all around. My biggest problem is the wandering in steering. I put a 2.5" add leaf spring pack to front when I first bought it. It has stock bullet whole wheels and new Firestone's destination a/ts. Also. Tires have been rebalanced and are smooth until I get to 60+mph, its a swirling ride after 60mph. Could I have bad wheel hubs or do I have an alignment issue? Planning to replace hubs with Napa hubs since I did everything else and I'm sure there bad with 236k miles on truck.
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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2013 CCLB, 33,500 miles, stock emissions
While towing a 9000 pound trailer at interstate speeds (75 to 80 in Wyoming), when pulling a hill, the truck downshifts to 4th gear, boost is about 18psi, eng and transmission temps in the 230F range, EGTs around 500C or 935F. RPM increases normally to 3000 then the turbo gets very loud and boost drops to about 10psi. The truck shifts to 5th gear, noise decreases but is still present, shifts to 6th and noise goes to normal after a couple seconds and boost builds normally.
This just started today. I have about 8000 miles towing this trailer and never had this before. I have about 350 miles until I'm home so I'm headed back out. Will play around with manual mode and see what it does. I also took a video of the gauges while this happens. Audio is difficult to discern. I will try to get better audio and post when I get home.
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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Have a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
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I own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
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I am the original owner of a 2001 Ford Excursion with about 262K miles on it. I have thought about selling it more than once but I have finally come to realize that this is a very sturdy and reliable truck - so why sell it?
With that said, there are a few items that I need to address. The most important right now for me is to get the steering adjusted some how to eliminate the looseness. It is especially noticeable when driving on the interstate, I guess because I am traveling faster.
I am not a skilled mechanic but I do want to learn more about performing some of the simpler maintenance items since I have lost faith in the auto repair shops.
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2001 F350 7.3L with 140K. Have had it for 7 years and this has never happened. I let the engine warm up (I'm in Cheyoming and it gets cold!). I'll have warm air coming out at all settings (foot, dash, combo, etc) for a few minutes, then the air turns cold!
I've checked the actuator and blend door and they seem to be working properly. The heater hoses going into the firewall are not particularly hot/warm. Is there a valve or thermostat that could be shutting water off to the heater core? Cause that's what it seems is happening. Like starting off in the shower with warm water . . . then someone gradually turns it to cold. Then next time I get in, warm air to cold again!
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My Prius is in better condition than when I started, the following condition remains a mystery.
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My first 2001 Excursion when I bot it had a 124K on it..We took off on a trip to Colorado from OKC and noticed the Cruise didn't work replaced the Deactivation switch with one from Advanced Auto it worked for a couple days. We went to get on to the Interstate and it worked for a split second and then stopped I would try to set the Cruise and the Horn would honk...
So I put it in the shop for two days he changed out the switches in The steering wheel,Which the off & on kind of sticks, Changed out the Deactivation switch on the master cylinder checked all the fuses Lights & Servo. The mechanic could not figure it out...So I brought it home and when I run the self diagnostic and I get as far as holding the off button and turning it to on and it blinks once... press the On button & nothing...I have been working on this for the last two days..
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2004 3.5L Santa Fe ... My vehicle has about 156k and has a new problem. Occasionally, there is a howling / whining that seems to occur occasionally once the engine is warm. When this happens, the directional can light but will not blink. Same for the hazard light.
Replaced the alternator only about 2 months ago, Checked the p/s pump and it is good and no fluid loss from the reservoir. Been a great vehicle with only a minimal of issues since new. The first time this happened, the car had been on a 15 mile run. It sat for about 20 min afterward when I returned home. After re-starting it to run another errand, the whining / howling began. This lasted about a mile and went away about 2 blocks from my house on my return.
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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Prius Loses Power While Driving on Interstate.
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I have a 2010 Prius that completely shut down in the middle of the interstate, I had to have it towed to Toyota. No clue where else to take it so I took it to the dealership.....
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In reading the manual, I note that it says to use the ECO mode when you're doing a lot of stop and start driving. Does that mean I should NOT use it on the interstate? My daily commute consists of 11 minutes start and stop to interstate, 11 minutes on interstate, and another 11 minutes of start and stop. My Prius is not quite a month old, so i am still learning.
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It feels like its catching, or its off and then comes back on ?? No codes, none.
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Long story short, at 77,100 miles, my engine failed yesterday. I bought the car new about 18 months ago, and have used it for work ever since.
After exiting the interstate yesterday, the car started knocking lightly. By the time I got home (about 3-4 miles), it was barely running, and knocking REALLY bad. No check engine lights or anything, and everything was working perfectly until then. I was sent a tow truck under warranty, and it's at the dealer now until Monday when they diagnosis it. This seems ridiculous for a new Hyundai
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So am i the only 200,000 miles prius owner on here? I have an 05 toyota prius, purchased with 44 miles on it. I now have 218k miles. All I've replaced was an o2 sensor and a few other minor things. But it died last thursday, had it towed to my house, still don't know the extent of the issues. I had the following codes P1116, P1121, P3193. I was driving on the interstate and all the warning lights came on and i lost power as i got over. Jumps would only allow me to turn my lights on and dashboard, but the engine doesn't start.
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