I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
View 9 RepliesA few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
View 1 Replies2001 Prius. Within 15 seconds of starting the engine, I captured the screeching sound from the engine bay. Noise went away after about 20 seconds. New serpentine belt and new 12v battery installed. Pass dealer 27-point check. Transmission fluid, inverter fluid, high voltage battery were replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Current mileage 174,000.
Noise is not from the serpentine belt. I attached a mp3 file of the sound. "2001 Prius Noise.MP3" ..... Which component is making this noise?
When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Prius that is running fine except for a loud noise when I started it up---like the one the exha fan in my bathroom makes, but the car runs well and there are no lights or any other indicator that anything is wrong. I am taking it to a local mechanic today, since I don't trust my local dealer. My car has about 95, 000 miles on it.
View 7 RepliesWhen trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
View 3 RepliesThe engine starts with knocking, rattling, and vibration that lasts for about 5 seconds. It seems to be an intermittent, rare event. With nearly 250,000 Prius in the North American market and the onset of cooler weather, it is time to see how frequently this occurs.
View 19 RepliesA minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
I hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
My 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
So My battery seems ok but the engine is running when I'm stopped a lot the last couple of days. I also hear a click from under the hood every once in a while like something is turning on.
Trying to even the voltage on a cell? I'm in SoCal but it's not hot or cold out.
I have a 1.8T 2001.5 Passat, Tiptronic with an Upsolute chip. I recently had the turbo replaced (under warranty for the same stock one). After the turbo reinstall, the car did this after driving it a while: I ran it hard and spooled up the turbo good a few times, and then parked the car. I would wait 45-60 minutes. When I tried to start the car it wouldn't start for like 8 seconds on the ignition, and then it would start but in EPC mode!
The first time this happened I panicked, drove it home (just to make sure I got home.) I then tried again and it started fine and no more EPC. Also, if I wait much longer like 3 or 4 hours, it never happens. Since the first time, this has happened like 10 times or more. But now, I just turn it off right after it starts in EPC, turn it again, and it works fine.
The first time it happened I got some kind of codes, but I didn't save them and cleared them. I figured since it happened again, I would get the codes again, but they're not there. I took it to the dealer, and of course, they can't duplicate it. The codes where like speed implausible or not there or something but I can't remember now.
The master mechanic told me to vapor lock was not possible because I had no carb, but I seem to remember that my '83 fuel injects 280ZX turbo had a special cooler fan to cool down the injectors in the event of vapor lock after the car shut down so I'm pretty sure this is possible with injectors. I mean, the explanation for that fan was so that if the remaining fuel in the injectors would get so hot after car shut down that it would vaporize the fuel and the pressure would lock up the injectors.
My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
View 7 RepliesRecently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
View 8 RepliesPretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
View 1 RepliesA couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 1996 Lexus ls400 last July to extend the life of my Santa Fe. So during the summer months, I've hardly been driving the SF. My problem is that if I don't drive it for 4 to 5 days, I get a tapping noise on start up and it continues for about 3 to 4 minutes and then totally disappears. As long as I drive it every other day I never hear that sound. Not sure if this is a recent development or has always been there as the SF used to be my DD.
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