Prius (2001-03) :: Engine Idles High When Drive For About 20 Minutes
Aug 26, 2013
I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
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I have 2001 ford explorer sport.. it idles very low in drive and reverse and then shuts off.. What has been replaced:
1. Torque converter
2. All new plugs n wires
3. Map or mass sensor
4. Iac valve
5. O2 sensors
6. Fuel filter
7. Air filter
8. Throttle valve/sensor
It does not run bad only when u come to a red or stop light.. Had the vacuum tested and no vacuum leaks.. also no check engine light has come on and no codes have popped up when tested..
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After about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
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So, among other things my 06 Limited is acting a little weird when I start it up. If it's cold, as in hasn't run in a few hours, not so much temp, it idles really high for a while. I wait for it to come down under 1000 before rolling out. It makes a funny noise too. Sort of a tick-tick-tick with a little whine behind it. What it could be? How much it'd be to get it fixed? I'm past my 100,000, 107,000 to be exact. Of course the issues pop up after the warranty is up!
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OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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I got my first truck about a months ago 2001 ford f150 v8 5.4.. has 155,000 seems to run good.. but about 3 days ago i started to notice that when I am in my driveway ill start it let it idle for say a min or so... then when I go to put it in reverse it will idle up for a lil bit.. it didn't do that till about 3-4 days ago.. other them that everything is fine.. should i get the transmission fluid flushed??
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Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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Wife is driving my F-150 and the AC cuts out about 15 minutes into the drive. It may or may not come back on. Getting check engine light code cylinder D. Clear that out and AC again works for 15 minutes. Told I have a vacuum leak. Have the dash apart looking.
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My 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I was driving my NHW11 in the hot sun this afternoon when, about 30 minutes of pleasant and unhurried driving, I got the dreaded 'hybrid system error' message...
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2006 price with going back - rest about 105K miles on it. Recently the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Battery fan runs non-stop as soon as the car is started and if driven, the gas engine never turns off. When it happened I was circling the neighborhood looking for parking. After about 5 minutes the car dropped out of drive and wouldn't go back in until I shut down and restarted. The battery still charges, and holds a charge when left parked. What is most likely the culprit before I bring it in this afternoon? The dealer is 3.5 miles away (about 15-minute drive in Chicago). Am I risking further damage driving it in? Should I call for a tow?
Update: A check of the inverter coolant reservoir shows that coolant is flowing. Ripples on the surface.
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Basically the car LS 2003 V8 had an issue with the thermostat....this was necessary be changed after 50 miles of drive the car....in the last 4 miles the temperature increased in a short period time to the high limit...with the protective system the car was turn off.....one time with the mechanical service the follow items was changed: thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, water pump, plastic joint parts (housings), head seals, coolant and the 2 caps (radiator & coolant tank), this last was damaged by the pressure during the over heating.
After all parts changed I still continue having in the car the high temperature in 8-10 minutes of continue engine operation, after this period time the car turn off automatically by the safety system.
I need information about the coolant flow in the system, the pump pulley rotation, the belt installation, the manner and values to test the old temperature sensor, auxiliary pump and the current CTS (cylinder temperature sensor).
The fan motor is working good, none coolant leak is present, and I already test without thermostat (none change in the result).
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
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