Prius (2001-03) :: Dies After Being On For 5 Seconds
Jun 28, 2013
I haven't driven the Prius for months. The other day, I needed it and tried to start it up but of course, it was dead. I should have known that would happen but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to these things.
So, I jumped it with another car, making sure not to reverse the polarity by doing it wrong (I think I did okay) and sure enough it started...for about 5 seconds and then died. The car we were using to jump it was on just like the manual said and we pushed it to 2,000 RPM again, just like the manual said. We tried it again and it comes on for about 5 seconds and then goes right back off. We even juiced it for about 3 minutes straight at 2,000 RPM and same result.
The display comes on and the icon with a car and an exclamation mark is red. What should I do? I guess the v12 battery is dead?
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
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2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
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I'm at a loss here, I bought a salvaged 2001 Prius at an insurance auction and fixed it up. After driving it for about a year the car suddenly dies on me in the middle of the freeway and i had to pull it over. the car hasn't started since. I can get it to turn on but the engine won't turn, and whenever I turn the steering wheel more than 45 degrees it makes this electrical sound the wheels jerks back to the original position and the PS message beeps on. I brought it to a dealership and they said it was a problem with the transaxle but they weren't sure.
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About a year ago when driving on a 3ish hour trip, I made it almost to my destination and the hybrid warning lights came on. I noticed my windshield wipers were moving extremely slowly, and about five minutes later the screen and all the lights flickered off, the power steering went out, and I came to a dead stop on the side of the road. After calling a friend to come rescue me, they arrived and for fun I attempted to start my car and it ran fine, and the next time I drove it all the lights were off. I drove it for several months afterwards with no problem. It happened again a few months later and I took it to the dealer who "completely disassembled" my car and said they found nothing wrong with it.
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I've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
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I'm also having an issue with these lights/buzzer on my 2002 since last weekend. Probably about one in every five starts, the brake/ABS warning lights/buzzer come on for around five to ten seconds and then go off. Braking appears to be fine. I'm thinking the brake system is taking too long to pressurize on starting. The car has run fine and brakes have worked fine after this has happened. Brake fluid level is fine. Do these warning lights/buzzer usually stay on, with an issue, or is this intermittent lights upon starting how it normally shows a problem? And yes, I am going to see about finally ordering a mini VCI and also read the blink codes. Dealer is 50 miles from home so I'm trying to figure out what is going on prior to heading that way, as I don't want to have an issue on the drive there.
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2001 Prius. It started few months back where I get all kind of codes and the heat gauge shows up for like 30 seconds then the Triangle and Check Engine shows up. I used to pull over and disconnect the 12V battery but I found later on that the car would keep going fine even with all the Gauges on. I did replace the air filter. The issue almost gone away when the weather got colder. I just had to reset the battery after 40 mile or so.
Now, the overheat light comes on and after few seconds, the car just lose power and wouldn't respond to the gas. I have to disconnect the 12V battery or sometimes I just have to turn the car off for a minute or two and that might clear the lights for the overheat. The other day I turn the heater on to see if that would cool the car. Inside the car it was hot as hell but when I pulled over and checked the Radiator water, it was as cold. Is it possible it is the transmission that gets hot? The car now as not having enough power even just when I drive it while it is still cold. The only code I get is c1259. unplug the 12V battery and plug it back in is not clearing this code.
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A few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
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So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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Not really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
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My 04 Touareg V-6 will start, but will die about 10 seconds after or if I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps just not sure which one.
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So My battery seems ok but the engine is running when I'm stopped a lot the last couple of days. I also hear a click from under the hood every once in a while like something is turning on.
Trying to even the voltage on a cell? I'm in SoCal but it's not hot or cold out.
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2001 Prius. Within 15 seconds of starting the engine, I captured the screeching sound from the engine bay. Noise went away after about 20 seconds. New serpentine belt and new 12v battery installed. Pass dealer 27-point check. Transmission fluid, inverter fluid, high voltage battery were replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Current mileage 174,000.
Noise is not from the serpentine belt. I attached a mp3 file of the sound. "2001 Prius Noise.MP3" ..... Which component is making this noise?
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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Recently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
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