Prius (2001-03) :: Codes P1636 And P3002 Keep Coming Back
Jul 9, 2014
Just purchased a Prius 2003 1st generation with 140,000 miles (224,000 Km)
P1636 and P3002 keep coming back
Aux battery came with car was almost new but after reading some post I replaced the battery with brand new Optima Yellow Top.
Hidden menu showing 12.4V~ 12.7V.
Car starts and run fine.
I am getting around 50 MPG.
No issues, car charging battery, goes in stealth mode.
No accidents.
In January dealer replaced the Airbag harness because the airbag light was on.
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I have a 2003 Prius, I had an accident and after it was fixed the check engine light started coming on. It would go off after a couple of days. The first time I took it to Autozone and the codes were P3150 & P3130, but the next day the check engine light went off. A couple of days later the light came back on....went back off....next week it stalled on the highway, but it started back up, now the codes it's reading are P1636 and P3002. It still starts up and will drive, but I'm afraid to drive it.
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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Yeah so on the way to the UCLA game last night, after the car warmed up, I started hearing a whoop sound coming from the back I thing. This is the second time I heard it doing this in the month I've owned it. It happened under some acceleration and sounded a bit like the beginning of a police siren. Not every time though.
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Finally had a good scan done on my truck at the mechanics. The reoccurring codes were P0478 and P0470. It looks like a bad exhaust pressure control sensor. Looks like an easy fix.
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My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 Elantra with about 160,000 miles on it and my CEL light has been coming on and off. I took it to Autozone and had them scan it, and the codes for P2237 and P0030, which are codes for oxygen sensors.
P2237- heated oxygen sensor pumping current control circuit-bank 1 sensor 1
P0030- heated oxygen sensor sensor- bank 1 sensor 1 heater control circuit fault
Which sensor is this, and can I clean it or should I just replace it?
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic, 4 door, 144K, original owner, 5 speed transmission with brand new tires and new brakes all around. Whenever going around a sharp curve, there is noise coming from the back, almost as if the tire is scraping the wheel well. The new tires are the same size as the OEM tires that came with the car brand new. My thought is perhaps work out shocks?
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2013 PiP w/ 39,760 miles (oops, edited miles 6/29). 90ยบ day this afternoon and for the first time ever it blew hot air.
- No codes via OBDii reader.
- Sight glass is completely clear, clean and empty. No apparent liquid present with A/C on or off.
I think the compressor runs of an electric motor, not the front drive pulley.
Is there supposed to be a serpentine belt on the crank pulley (there is none)?
Screen on OBD ii does not light up AC in monitor area, so I guess it does not have monitor refrigeration.
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I've been hearing this ticking noise coming from the back of my prius when driving. i can only hear it when my windows is down and i'm passing by an object that reflects the sound so i can hear it., like if i was driving by a car, building, median with barriers etc. It sound like pop rocks candy literally but much slower.
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I am working on a 2003 Prius with 120k. It died when the owner was coming to a stop. He had it towed to the dealer who told him it needed an inverter and quoted $4600 to replace it. I replaced the inverter with a used unit from a wrecked car. After clearing the codes the car starts and runs but after a few minutes the triangle of death comes back and codes P3000 and P3009 are set.
Battery voltages are as follows.
Where the best place to start diagnosing the leak is ?
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I heard a fan sound coming from the back seat after driving in traffic for 45 minutes. It was coming from the vent in the back seat. I didn't know that that vent had an electric fan. I assume it was the battery being cooled. I have never heard this sound before.
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2010 Prius. The seals around the back doors keep coming off. I snap them back in place. They come off again and again.
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A 2001 Prius is getting a warning triangle. No check engine light, and with my OBDII scanner, it shows there are no codes. I can erase and the triangle goes out, but it comes back on eventually. It seems only if the car is driven a long time/distance it comes on, indicating some heat issue perhaps.
The 12v battery is good, the radiator coolant is good, the inverter coolant is good and flowing. The washer fluid hose is broken, could THAT give the death triangle? There must be a way to have the cars display whats wrong with the fancy software and touch screen?
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I have no codes on screens, engine revs and gas mileage has gone down to 30 mpg from 40s this summer. The toyota service adviser said the poor gas mileage was from running the heater since it is around 20 degrees these days in minnesota. My innova scanner shows no DTC's. But my question is do I need a scanguage II or other scanner to get the battery codes? Am I missing them using the innova scanner? What scanners are available for 2001 prius.
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Got my Prius v 5 in June and since then, there is the most obnoxious rattle coming from the back seat (passenger side). It's intermittent, depending on who's in the car with me. When I'm alone, it happens about 80% of the time. When my kids are in the car, it depends on which one and what seat they choose.
I've taken it to Toyota twice, and they're unable to detect the problem. I'm convinced that this is because the weight distribution is difficult to replicate. It is seriously making me crazy and I'm ready to turn the car in and get another (NOT a Toyota).
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This is the second night in a row that we hear a noise coming from the back of the car. I know that some noises are normal but this is after the car is stopped/parked in the garage for some 5 hours.
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I have a 2014 Prius v that I bought new in January 2014. I've had this persistent rattle which seemed like it was coming from the back seat behind the driver. I've taken the rear seat partially apart and glued and shimmed things to no avail. I've emptied the entire contents of the rear storage area and it still rattled on. Anyhow I've had this rattle for six months now. Turns out the noise is coming from under the car just ahead of the rear tire where some body type plastic which juts down about 2". This piece rattles when against the frame just ahead of where one would put a jack for lifting the car. I've temporarily stuffed some old paper napkins, which were handy, between the plastic piece and the frame. Noise is gone! I'll eventually remove the napkins and then load up the area with silicone. I'm doing both sides of the car just in case.
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I have a rattle coming from the back hatch area. I sat in the back seat while someone else drove and it sounds like it's coming from under the drivers side plastic side molding in the back hatch.
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I have a 2008 Prius and have been having problems with the a/c blower just cutting out randomly and then coming back on equally as randomly. I can hear the relay click when I turn the fan on and off, but nothing coming out of the vents.
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