Prius (2001-03) :: Codes 3006 And 3014 - Replacing 1 Cell In HV Pack?
Jun 22, 2013
My Gen1 battery is giving up after 157,000 miles and I had a tech pull the engine codes which were 3006 and 3014 indicating SOC voltage even and cell #3014 going bad apparently. I started looking for a new battery and browsing these forums but started wondering if I could just replace 1 cell instead of having to buy a new or rebuild the whole pack. I'm sure it would be best to replace the whole pack with a Gen2 rebuild but money is an object so if I could get by with just a cell or 2 that might be a better route for me.
I didn't find an exact answer to this in the forums:
Does it make sense to replace just 1 cell? Might I get another 50,000 miles on it?
The car is driving but stops every 5 miles or so where I have to turn it off and back on again to get it to drive again. I'm sure it's not good to drive in this state but should I cease driving it immediately or risk damaging something else? I've been driving short trips for a day or two...
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I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
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what is that?
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I replaced one bad module and seemed to run fine for a 3 or 4 miles, but now getting red triangle and a yellow exclamation mark with no codes showing up (using Torque app) and car goes in and out of a weak sputter just like it did before I replaced the bad module. What to do next.
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Since Toyota didn't have the replacement wiring harness in stock and it took nearly two weeks to get it, and I didn't take a picture of the old one before I removed it, I don't remember where these wires attach!
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During the last few months I noticed that I could no longer charge my Verizon Cell phones (the original Droid and the most recent Samsung). Interestingly, the phones vibrate when connected and display the icon that it is charging. However, after 6 hour trips, the phones are not charged at all. I have tried plugging the chargers into both the places where these chargers can be plugged into. Neither work. Initially I thought it was my charger and bought another one. No luck. So I bought a third charger at another store. Still no charging.
Then my wife and also my daughter connected their phones to the various chargers in my 2006 Prius and in each case it stated that the phone was charging but they did not charge. Then I connected the same phones to the same charger and to the cigarette lighter in my Mercedes. The phone charged. Same with my wife's phone. Clearly, this has something to do with my 2006 Prius. My dealer determined that the voltage from charger is 9.5 volts when the car is not running and that the voltage is 14.5 volts when the car is running. how to determine what is causing this odd behavior?
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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I read in the owners manual that the engine antifreeze should be an ethylene glycol type. I believe that Prestone makes this type of coolant in a 50/50 mix. Is that correct? Also, what type of coolant does the inverter use? I want to try and stay away from buying it at a dealer. Also, my gen 1 has 117,000 miles and I must admit that I have been slacking with the maintenance. My gas mileage is down to 40/mpg compared to 48-49mpg when I got the car two years back with 40k. I am pretty sure the original auxillary batter is still in it, so I order a new one today. I also plan an changing the transaxle fluid, PCV valve, air filter, and cabin filter. The plugs where changed at 80,000 miles. Where can I order a gasket for the transaxle pan? I intend on dropping it and cleaning it out. Do you think this will get the gas milage back up?
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The guy that I use to rebuild my batteries has recently commented that most of the bad cells he has replaced have been on the driver's side of the battery farther away from the cooling fan. He has since started rotating the cells as preventive maintenance as part of the rebuilding process.
I am interested in other peoples experience regarding where they are finding the defective cell/cells.
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My car started giving me trouble I ran the scan tool and it told me that cell 6 was bad on my battery. I replaced the cell and put the battery back in now the check engine light is on and the problem triangle is on and the car wont start and only shifts into neutral but when I check for codes i get nothing .
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last week I got a whole array of warning lights, including the triangle of death. Took it in to my local mechanic who diagnosed it and told me it was the HV Battery. So, as a temporary fix, we did some DIY and just replaced the bad cell. Everything went well, just some minor troubles toward the end with the engine not turning on, which we fixed by switching the orange switch on the battery and disconnecting and then reconnecting the 12V battery. It was driving great, until u got to work this morning and all the lights came on again. What am I missing?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5. I just changed the spark plugs and wires and now I hear a clicking coming from the middle coil pack. At first I could see it arcing on the bottom to the metal part that holds the plug wire. I removed it and added some dielectric grease and the arcing seemed to stop, but the clicking noise is still happening. Does this indicate a bad ignition coil or do I just need to add more dielectric grease? The idle is still a little rougher than I would like, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
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I have 2007 PRIUS with 187,OOO miles, I just replaced one bad cell today and the master warning,vsc,charging system warning light went off then come back on but it's charging .
All bars are green. Blue light is ON.
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While driving around 55mph, the check engine light came on and as soon as it came on the car begin to slow down until it came to a stop. There was no noise. This was the first time the check engine light has came on. My car has exactly 28,960 miles on it.
It took the service department at the dealership nearly 2 full days to charge the car and get it to stay on when you turn it on. It wouldn't initially stay on when they charged it. They originally called me this afternoon around 4:30pm and said they were trying to get a software update from Toyota. Around 4:55pm they called again to say that I needed to contact my insurance to file a claim because they think maybe something is wrong with my gas because they think they found some crystal-like substance in the tank. A gas-related issue is not covered under warranty.
I don't see how a gas-issue caused the car to completely shut down. I also don't see how this could be why they had trouble charging the battery.
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While I was pulling out my charger from the port of my brand new 2013 Prius Two, the whole plastic housing the auxiliary/charger ripped off. Nothing was damaged, nor was any plastic bits pulled off. It just came apart. I tried for so long trying to put it back in, but to no avail. Here's the picture on Imgur: [URL] ....
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2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
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I am a new Prius 2010 owner - One question - I read in the manual you should not carry your remote control near your cell phone since it could cause decrease battery life. Does it matter if cell phone is off? I always carried by Camry remote control in my purse with my off cell phone. Camry is 7 years old and battery still works.
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I posted earlier getting failure codes that might indicate something wrong with the battery pack. The codes were P3000, subcode 123, v0100 subcode 211/330. My independent mechanic said that I needed both the battery pack and the battery ECU replaced, based on these codes and the fact that they tested the hybrid pack under load.
At the same time, my auxiliary battery was low. You folks suggested replacing that first.
So I did. I have so far driven over 140 miles without the engine check light and triangle of death coming on again. But I do notice that the SOC screen shows my battery going into the green far more often and far more readily than I remember it doing so in the past. All it takes is a little downhill (say quarter to half a mile) and it will go into green--sometimes 100%.
I'm guess what I'm looking for is some sort of objective data that says my mechanics are right and not shining me on.
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I have a Gen 1 that won't start after sitting. ECU considers the pack disconnected. 12v brand new.
What is the easiest way to get it going without removing the pack?
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From my understanding, there are 3 batteries in the PIP. 2 of them are for EV mode, and 1 is for Hybrid mode. they are all hooked up together and also the electric motor when it is fully charged. when the first pack (ev pack) get's depleted, it will disconnect via relays from the remaining 2 packs. then when the second pack is depleted (second EV pack) it will discontinue from the last remaining pack. below is a small simple diagram of what it looks like:
Fully charged: (EV1)-----(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
1st pack depleted. still in EV mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
both EV packs depleted and in HYBRID mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)---x---(HYBRID)----[motor]
(x = disconnected)
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A 2001 Prius is getting a warning triangle. No check engine light, and with my OBDII scanner, it shows there are no codes. I can erase and the triangle goes out, but it comes back on eventually. It seems only if the car is driven a long time/distance it comes on, indicating some heat issue perhaps.
The 12v battery is good, the radiator coolant is good, the inverter coolant is good and flowing. The washer fluid hose is broken, could THAT give the death triangle? There must be a way to have the cars display whats wrong with the fancy software and touch screen?
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