Prius (2001-03) :: Code 3125 - No Start Up When Turn The Key
Oct 29, 2014
I bought a 2003 that I was told was running it wasn't but it was cheap and only had 128000 miles on it so I bought it anyway. When I turn the key I here what sounds like the MG1 wants to engage but then nothing. Checked the codes, got 3125, cleared it, tried again, same thing. 12v battery is strong and everything 12v, PS, PB, lights etc., work fine with the key on so I don't suspect an inverter problem, but I admit I am not an expert so I'm willing to be schooled.
I don't have a scan tool that will give me sub codes but since this is gen 1 number 3, I also have 2 2001's that my wife and I drive, maybe I should look into purchasing one. I have an extra CVT out of a 2003, that was t-boned, that I know is good and I can swap it out if that is what I need to do. But before I do that is their anything else I should test to make sure I am on the right track?
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I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
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I just put in a new starting battery, and it still won't start. When I turn the key to start, the dash just goes dark. It had been sitting for about three months.
2001 Prius
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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Fault code (U0100 lost comm with ECM/PCM)
Car started a few weeks back. I let is sit while I ordered a new dash, it had a blow dash airbag. I replaced the dash, taking out the stereo and instrument cluster. I also replaced the battery with a new factory one.
Went to start the car and nothing happened, no cranking, the only thing I can hear is a single click from the starter. All the lights are on in the instrument panel.
Windows, sunroof dont work even in AUX power
Fuel pump does not prime
I checked the fuses, none were blown, checked the relays, all work.
OBDII reader throws out the code U0100 even though check engine light is not on. I dont have VAGCOM or VCDS but should in a few days.
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Just went out to start the truck (2006 4.2L) and no start...turns over but isn't firing.
I checked codes and got a P1299. She was stone cold and ran perfectly last night - never overheated.
I suspect ground or other wiring...where should I start?
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My daughters 2009 ford escape will turn over fine but won't start. Hooked up code reader and it read p0690. I am trying to get a feel for what this really is. It seems to me a spark or fuel issue but that is not part of that code from what've read.
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For about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.
Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.
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I was away on a trip for a week after coming back my 03 hyundai elantra wont start. Everything seems to be good when the key is in the on position. The stereo and the lights are on. But when I turn the key to start the car everything shuts off and the car wont start. Then the lights or stereo wont even turn on. Its not the battery I took the battery to get checked they said the battery is fine.
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My 2001 Jetta GLS V6 automatic won't start. Turn the key, lights come on bright, nothing happens. No sound other than a single click. Problem started tonight while running errands. Made many trips today without problem. Last stop at the grocery store, no start.
89,000 miles. Only problem of late is the trunk latch mechanism broke. Have been using the key to manually open. Could I have messed up the key fob? Going to try alternate keys when I can get back to the car in the morning.
More info: our mechanic managed to start the car today, playing around with the gear shift. Got the car home and into the garage, but now won't start again. He thinks it might be a problem inside the console, with the gear shifter. ?? Doesn't know if he will be able to fix it or if he will have to send us to the dealership, which I would like to avoid.
I tried both of the key fobs and the valet key. Checked the fuses on the side of the dashboard. When key is turned all the way to the start position, 3 lights remain on the dashboard: EPC, Check Engine, and Battery.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?
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2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
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2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
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2001 Prius
polarity got reversed on dead battery. Main fuses OK so did I toast all the CPUs?? or not...
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