Prius (2001-03) :: Check Engine Light Started Coming On For Code P1636 And P3002
Apr 11, 2011
I have a 2003 Prius, I had an accident and after it was fixed the check engine light started coming on. It would go off after a couple of days. The first time I took it to Autozone and the codes were P3150 & P3130, but the next day the check engine light went off. A couple of days later the light came back on....went back off....next week it stalled on the highway, but it started back up, now the codes it's reading are P1636 and P3002. It still starts up and will drive, but I'm afraid to drive it.
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Just purchased a Prius 2003 1st generation with 140,000 miles (224,000 Km)
P1636 and P3002 keep coming back
Aux battery came with car was almost new but after reading some post I replaced the battery with brand new Optima Yellow Top.
Hidden menu showing 12.4V~ 12.7V.
Car starts and run fine.
I am getting around 50 MPG.
No issues, car charging battery, goes in stealth mode.
No accidents.
In January dealer replaced the Airbag harness because the airbag light was on.
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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I just recently purchased a 2001 Prius with 92,000 miles on it and the check engine like comes on frequently. I have a scangauge and I scan for codes and it comes up P0000. I clear the codes the light goes off and everything seems to be ok. I'm not even sure where to start "looking" for something to be wrong.
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Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I have a 2001 Prius with 210,000 miles. The inverter and traction battery were replaced last year. I started getting triangle and check engine lights about a month ago and the scan tool read p3191 p3006 p0300. The car would barely start in the mornings and the dash lights would be dim. I replaced the 12v aux battery today and all the symptoms went away. Driving home the triangle/check engine light popped on again and I stopped at Orielly's to use their scan tool. It now only reads P3006. I called a local mechanic who suggested to drive it a bit and clear the codes because the battery needed to equalize. Is this true?
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while scraping ice off the windshield this morning with the car warming up, it started to choke, engine light came on. Used my OBD reader and found only one code, that being p0740. Cleared the code and all was fine after that, it drives the same way it always has and nothing feels different, revs are the same shifts gears the same. I know it had something to do with the torque converter clutch.
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I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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The check engine light has been coming on and off over the last month...SO, I replaced the MAF which I thought was the code 17550. After a couple hundred miles the check engine light came on again. SAME code, 17550 again...my tech is baffled.
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
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Got these codes after my check engine light came on.Cleared the light with my OBD2 scanner several time but it kept coming back on. One week at the dealer who replaced a 'sensor' after vegging it and talking to the VW Tech line! Light came back on the same day I picked up the Touareg from the dealer :confused. Dealer thinking about what to do next.
2007 FSI V8 Touareg...
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From time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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I have a 99 Ford Explorer - w/217k miles. (2nd owner) .. I got an oil change 3 weeks ago, tune up 2 mos ago, and new brakes/tires within the last 6 mos, oh, and Brother-In-Law just recharged my a/c last week.
Runs well, and I hope to keep it for another few years, but having problem lately.
Check Engine light keeps coming on - I've taken it in, and they read the code, and it comes up with a misfire. Mechanic resets it, and it will stay off for a few days/weeks, and then comes back on.
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I purchased a 2001 Jetta and it ran alright for a few days then all these problems started arising. The engine would not idle correctly and then a week later my EPC light started coming on. After all of that I have replaced the Throttle body ( Bosch) the MAF ( after market) and gas pedal ( after market). It ran fine for a day and then same issues. I had a mechanic relearn the throttle which had the Engine light go away for about a day. Now all the issues have came back. Here are the main problems.
1. Randomly lose throttle ( up hill, down hill, highway does not matter)
2. I randomly get stuck in park and cannot shift at all.
This is extremely troublesome since every time I lose throttle i have to put the car in park, shut her off and turn her back on to be able to drive. I keep getting the Throttle and MAF codes. I also checked on the recalled parts and they have already been replaced. I have read many reasons as to what would cause this but even the mechanic doesn't even know and I cant pay for him to check the electric. Also when driving if it is raining my car will not start or when it does it chugs. I was running through a puddle and after the water splashed the car basically would no longer run.
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I have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
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