I recently purchased an '01 Prius that needed work. I was driving it last night, and noticed that the dash does not light around the heater controls or radio. The whole center dash area does not light with the headlight switch.
I took a look through the owners manual for any fuse that might control this, but did not find any. I would not think that all of the bulbs would be burned out.
Found a simple fix for unlit radio control buttons, cd player opening and center display buttons while the parking/headlight switch is turned on. As it turns out, if the wire connector directly behind the dimmer switch wheel located to the left of the steering wheel is accidentally disconnected, you will not have any backlight for your in dash cd player opening,radio control buttons or your emergency hazard flasher button.
The simple fix is to first remove the left side silver/gray plastic vent cover which is located directly to the left of your dimmer control knob. Place one hand on the top of the vent cover and the second hand at the bottom the vent cover and firmly pull directly out. Second step is to pull towards you the miniature dash panel that the dimmer switch wheel is mounted to.
The arrow tip guide on the miniature dash panel will pull away from 2 guide slots mounted to the main dash panel. Third step is to reconnect the disconnected white male plug to the back of the dimmer switch wheel's female connector. Last step is to push back the miniature dimmer switch wheel's dash panel until it snaps back in place, then snap back in place the silver/gray plastic vent cover until it clicks back in place.
So I have some road resurfacing happening near my home which I've been driving through recently. One thing that I've begun hearing is a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the center speaker area on my dash. I have the ML system so not sure if the standard audio package has this speaker. I'm not 100% that it coming from the speaker but it's somewhere towards the center of my dash.
View 2 Replies2004 F150 FX4, 5.4L, 116k
I have replaced the IWE solenoid ,alternator, spark plugs, air filter, idled pulley and check valve nearest to the IWE solenoid. The sound happens while in neutral and while in Drive at ~2250 RPM and above at an increasingly louder increments. The sound also happens when in neutral rolling down hill when engine speeds are above 2250 RPMs. The sound still happens while in 4x4 and does not stop if 4x4 is engaged while the noise is happening. The noise can be found while revving in park. It seems to be coming from inside the cab almost or center firewall area. However I can't find it with a stethoscope, I would compare it to electrical static.
[URL] .....
I recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
After I had the transaxle replaced in my 2008 I was driving on the interstate and the traction control light started blinking and a beeping came out of the dash area. A fast beep-beep-beep-beep-beep... for about a minute then stopped. I took it back to the dealer and they said it didn't throw any code plus "that shouldn't have anything to do with the transaxle".
Everything was fine until a few days ago it rained and it did it again three times, only at highway speeds, stopping after I got under 37 mph. Is something getting wet that shouldn't be? It doesn't slow the car down or anything like a real slipping situation would.
I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
View 5 Replies...while I didn't get the light sensor installed (since I actually use my cuppyhole to store my grarage door opener & EZ-Pass transponder0...
kept the Auto switch in...
with the DRL's activated (they are in the fog light position):
Off: DRLs
Auto: full lighting on
Parking: DRLs (plus I can use rear fog)
Low beam: full lighting (plus front & rear fogs)
and since activating the coming home and leaving home... the coming home works on "auto" position.
I suppose it could be unrelated but yesterday i was showing my coworker how easy it was to remove the headlight switch on my 2010 golf tdi (he has an a3). I took it out of the slot, unplugged it, plugged it back in, and slid it back into place. im sure i didnt yank on the wiring harness but who knows. I went to turn on my car and now i have an airbag fault showing up for the driver seat position sensor. I looked under the seat and everything is still plugged in, along with in the little access panel where the wiring goes.
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels: 5K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 B HW: 5K0 959 655 B
Component: AirbagVW10G 021 0706
Serial number: 003C4R009H0T
Coding: 00003031
[Code] .....
I tried to reset it but it comes right back on.
I noticed that there is no parking light position on the headlight switch, so how does the headlight switch work? Either all OFF or all on? Or is the on position really "auto"
View 10 RepliesHave a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
I need Vag-Com to reset a failed lamp warning light . . . I'm assuming because I ended up pulling the switch out too far, which commands the rear fog light to come on, which doesn't exist, I caused the "lamp failure" warning light and chime to come on and NOT GO OFF (I installed my new Euro headlight switch last night).
I checked and have no dead lamps. I put the old switch back in for a bit but it's still reporting a failed lamp. I searched for this problem before posting but the search engine on this site is extremely poor ... .Couldn't find anything in the manual either. It assumes we're idiots because it says a certified mechanic should change the lamps but oh, carry extras with you !!??
The connector is near the floor (that's the gas pedal, in the picture). I've slid back the red clip on both, but the connector still will not separate. Is there a trick?
2001 Escape V6....
My 2001.5 1.8T GLX wagon, 102,000 miles, occasionally exhibits a sort of "creak" in the passenger side dash area when the car is turned or "yanked" from side to side. It sounds like it's coming from the passenger airbag cover, but this may not be the case. It sounds like pieces of plastic rubbing against each other, as opposed to metallic pieces. What this might be?
View 7 RepliesMy wife has a 2009 Prius and the center display does not work. At first it was intermittent but now it is off and does not come on at all. We can still control radio & AC through the controls on the steering wheel. I checked the 2 fuses the manual associates with the display(s) and they are both still good.
View 6 RepliesI finally took my car in and the technician drove around with me. He confirmed that the noise was coming from under the dash. After some discussion with his supervisor, he came back and said it was the insulation pads which had broken down and needed replacing. He said this was due to the heat. He told me this involved taking off the dash board and was an all day (8 hour job) of about $800, but they would charge me only half, about $425. I was stunned because I have never had this happen in another car. I use window shield and keep my car in a garage most of the time. It does not sit out all day by any means. So I am looking for solutions before I go back and say that it seems this should be under warranty. I purchased the extended warranty when I bought the car new, but after reading over the packet, it does not seem to cover insulation pads in the dashboard. I love the car, but it is really annoying when we are driving around town and have a constant noise from the dash.
View 2 RepliesOK so I bought my Prius a little over a week ago and there was no rattle. I drove it 350 miles to get it home and it was completely silent. A couple of days ago I heard a slight rattle, and its not even a rattle is like rubbing 2 Styrofoam cups together, but now today it is extremely loud. So loud that I can still hear it over the radio blasted. I have pressed everywhere on the dash and cannot quiet the noise. It sounds like it is dead center under the vent. First thing I did was to come on here and research. I have read tons and tons of threads regarding removing dash and placing felt but I could not find instructions on how to remove the dash. Looking for step by step instructions?
View 4 RepliesMy 2010 prius is making a strange sound, and has been since day one.
It makes a "Clicking" sound sometimes that can be heard inside the cabin and sounds like it is coming from the center dash. It is definitely NOT a squeaky dash or door panel or anything like that. It is definitely electrical in nature. It almost sounds like a very fast clicking relay or maybe another electrical component. It is fairly high pitched (not like the inverter whine, though) and definitely clicking (maybe buzzing), not constant. It sort of sounds like a cricket. I am working on adding some audio/video to this post, should have some up today.
Here are some things I have noticed about the noise:
1. Only happens when gas pedal is depressed, not when braking or coasting.
2. When the display is in "Eco" it happens loudest and consistently when the bar is 3/4 of the way full, but it can happen (although the clicking is slower and less consistent) at 1/2 or just before the power section of the bar.
3. The car must be "warmed up" i.e. doesn't happen right away, car must be driven for 10-15 min if engine is cool.
4. Seems to be happening more/more quickly after starting the car in the hotter weather (I purchased my car in Feb.)
I have searched for but have not found how to remove the lower center dash panel on a 2005 Prius.
View 1 Replies1987 Acura IntegraI noticed that the pop up headlight dash warning light intermittently comes on when the engine is running. Now Battery light (charging light) and pop up headlight warning lights are coming on simultaneously (still intermittent) when the engine is running.
Battery is new. Headlights (and pops up) are working. High beam is working. Parts store used their meter to test the battery and alternator - it passed - however, their equipment initially did not detect the battery voltage - I was told that it needs to be repaired - but when the engine was running, he was able to do the test - it passed all the test.
There is a separate switch to just to pop the headlight - when I push the switch, it makes the sound as if it begins to pop but there is a hesitation and then it fully pops it up (only issue that I can observe) - whereas when I turn the headlight on, it properly pops it up and turns the headlight on - whether engine is running or not.
2010 Prius
The dash display area has a laminate covering it and it is starting to release from the surface of the display. Dealer says that they have to take the entire dash out to look at it and fix it. I am somewhat apprehensive about them taking the dash out and putting it back for a cosmetic item.