Prius (2001-03) :: CEL Comes On - Could 12v Battery Causing This?
Jun 8, 2010
Today while I was out driving in the country, my 2001 Prius with 140,900 miles pulled an error code. The red triangle popped up on the dash along with a "Check Engine" light and the car symbol with the "!" through it came on the MFD. I was able to get it back home safely by the way. The car had a weak 12v battery as it is, and I have been planning on replacing it but haven't gotten around to it yet. What I want to know though is, can a weak 12v battery cause those warning lights?
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I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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Recently i been noticing that it takes up a lot of power from the battery causing it to sometimes shut off or the needle almost at the out of power side. Besides the basic electrical's, i have a subwoofer and amp hooked up that have never caused me any problems. Now that i'm noticing this whenever i switch anything on the needle will go down a bit and when i switch it off it goes back to normal and i used to hear my music loud with no problem now i'm scared to even take it that high cause i'm scared it might shut off while im driving. Has happened many times on me and on my dad on the freeway before. Even turning on the headlights at night the needle goes down.
Info about the battery, i don't think it has been changed in a LONG time and looks old also. The car was abandoned in our garage for a long time till i got my DL about 2 years ago and parents gave me the car.
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I spent some time searching the forums last night and found a bunch of you are having the same problem I did with a dead battery. I took mine in for service and the dealer told me that Volkswagen has discovered a software glitch in the radio that causes it not to fully turn off. This is a constant drain on the battery that will eventually kill it if it goes unused for "long" periods of time. They didn't say how long it would take to fix it though.
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I had a sensor error which caused my battery to drain. The computer thinks my door is unlocked when it is locked, leaving the door open image on the dashboard. This caused my battery to drain totally. What the damage would be for a new battery and fixing the door sensor ?
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Several times now I have found that the courtesy lights stay ON after all the doors are closed, and the dash switch is indeed off. This has caused the battery to drain.
I have opened and closed all doors numerous times and the light won't go off. I can't seem to find where the door switches are so that I can inspect them.
The last time this happened I was forced to remove the fuse, then the next day I put the fuse back in and the lights operated correctly.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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Back in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
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2001 B5.5 V6 Passat 4-motion.
there is a misfire code in plugs/wires/coil...one of those...but car isn't really running rough. the big prob i notice is when you start pushing accelerator, it wants to shift to 2nd even at like 5mph...can't be normal. can that be related to the misfire code showing up?
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I recently began having problems with the fuel filter and pump in my 2001 Miata. When I bought replacement parts, the Napa man said he hasn't ever seen sold so many fuel pumps and filters in a month before. He and others have chalked it up to the new fuel blends causing problems. Many of my coworkers are regularly adding sea foam, while others are using gum out. Is this worthwhile?
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About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
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My car has been in the toyota shop all day they cant figure out why it wont charge up fully. Car has 350k on it; traction battery replaced 100k ago--inverter replaced has 60 k on it. Cars battery will fully charge for about 800 miles and then start charging only half way, transmission only has about 80k on it.
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So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
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I had this happen twice. The Prius will run the ICE non-stop to recharge the battery. Even after the Energy monitor shows the battery to have a full charge (yes, 100% green), the ICE just keeps working to charge it up. Accelerating even slightly, which would normally use the battery only, uses the ICE instead.
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I need to replace the main battery on my 2003 prius - whether or not they've replaced the battery, and what the end result was afterwards - did the car continue to last? Is this just a "regular maintenance' thing and all else will work swell, or is the beginning of the end?
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My main battery is dieing will my prius run on just gas until I can get it fixed? It is a 2001 hybrid. I need to get to work for the weekend.
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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I rebuilt the HV battery w/(tested) Gen II cells on a 2001 that I purchased cheap knowing that the HV was bad.
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P0420 CATALYST EFF BELOW THRESHOLD
P0440 EVAP EMISSION SYSTEM
P0441 EVAP EMM SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW
P0446 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT
P3190
P3191
P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE
P0301 CYL 1 MISFIRE
P0304 CYL 4 MISFIRE
Was driving on highway in mild rain and car started to shudder and stalled. I ran it on the electric motor for a while to get out of traffic so it's fairly drained. Has a year old main battery and a year old 12V Optima battery. Car has 202,000 miles.
The cat code and possibly evap were on all year as check engine light has been on. I get the triangle of death with exclamation point on the right car icon on the screen as well as the check engine light. After resetting the codes the triangle hasn't come back. Haven't rechecked the other codes as it was a borrowed generic scanner.
Just checked the 12V battery at Autozone and they say it's good but discharged. Car won't start and it seems to kill the 12V battery if left to sit. I did the throttle body and MAF clean even though they both looked ok. A little oil in the intake so I mopped it up. Didn't work. I hooked up another 12V battery with jumper cables and it doesn't work. Checked the fuel pump relay and it's ok. I pulled spark plug 1 and it was fine. Check main battery and 12V connections -all fine - tight and no corrosion.
I'll try to check fuel pressure and spark.
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