Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
I have dismantled my trunk completely in order to install rear upgraded lights, as well as to install a new bumper to my kit. I have not put back the interior of the trunk yet. I went to let the top down so I could begin to remove the rear seat to do the mod to the subwoofer that a fellow forum member recommended and provided an instructional. But the top will not come down.
I was able to raise the top and the windows. But when I push the button to lower the top the red light to the switch blinks but nothing happens. My question, do I have to reassemble tyne trunk in order to lower the top. If that is the case how is everyone doing the woofer and amp work with the top lowered.
What I really want to do is lower the top partially so I can remove the rear sear set (top) so I can get to my subwoofer. Or maybe the seat can come out without lowering the top.
So, I was about to go get something in the garage yesterday and the car didn't open. I know one of the fobs has a bad battery. Well I got new batteries and replaced them in both fobs.
Red light blinks can't unlock when clicking the unlock button nor does the smart function work. I get the little key out and open the drivers seat and think Shouldn't there be some lights on in here like around the power button? or blinking?
Usually when you unlock with the little key should you be able to turn lights on inside the car?
I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
View 8 RepliesI have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
I'm parking the car (gen. 2) a long while, so I checked the manual which shows the deactivation button on/off positions. It show the button sticking out more = the off position. However, the car symbol still blinks on the dashboard.
View 2 RepliesI had a new compressor installed on '07 ES350 and now every now and then the AC button light blinks, the cool air shuts down and I get a message on the screen saying "Check Air Conditioner".
It only occurs occasionally --maybe not at all one day and two or three times another day. I returned to the shop that installed the compressor and they don't seem to know what is causing the problem. (They said maybe a freon overfill and adjusted that --but it's still occurring.)
I just bought a 2008 Elantra and I really like it. I've never owned a Hyundai before. So it really feels like I'm driving on air. Very futuristic and quiet!
I notice the A/C blue light blinks/clicks on once in a while even when the A/C is shut off. Is this a typical thing?
THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
Ok so this is a one owner with 100000 miles it runs the tops but when I try to use the AC it will run for say a little while the light on the AC button will flash and then NO AC ! Ive had it at an AC repair shop they could not find anything wrong then took it to the local Toyota Dealer they charged me 190 dollars and could not figure it out either !
View 4 RepliesI have charged system 134 ... Compressor works at start up until warm, then light flashes and compressor disengages. No noise and gets cold until motor gets heated.
View 5 RepliesI just got this Santa Fe 3.5L not too long ago and have been doing quite a bit of maintenance on it. I put new plugs, wires, and coils on it. I also put a timing belt kit including a water pump and the tensioners on it. The main catalytic converter was totally plugged so I have fixed that problem also. I also did an air filter, oil filter and oil change. Only has 151k miles on it so I expect it should keep going for quite awhile. It runs awesome now with one exception.
The problem and I think I may know the answer, is after driving it a few miles the oil light blinks and then comes on. I stop and turn the car off for a few seconds and start it back up again and drive it another couple of hundred yards or even a mile before the oil light comes on again. When I changed the oil, the cap had gunk on it. Kind of greenish milky sludge and I am thinking it may be a head gasket.
I have a 2007 with 46,000 miles. Today I went out to run an errand and when I got to the store, the start button would not shut off. At the same time the dashboard went dark so no speed or mileage could be seen, but no warning lights came on. I tried pressing it repeatedly to no avail.
View 12 RepliesI've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased an '01 Prius that needed work. I was driving it last night, and noticed that the dash does not light around the heater controls or radio. The whole center dash area does not light with the headlight switch.
I took a look through the owners manual for any fuse that might control this, but did not find any. I would not think that all of the bulbs would be burned out.
I happened to read the following passage on page 37 of the owners manual discussing usage of the wireless remote control:
To Unlock: Push the unlock switch once to unlock the driver's door alone. Pushing the switch twice within 3 seconds unlocks all the doors simultaneously ... This double switch operation to unlock all the side doors and back door can be changed to a single switch operation. For details, contact your Toyota dealer.Click to expand...
(Note that this is different than the "smart unlocking" operations discussed on page 32.)
I'm interested in having all the doors unlock with just a single press of the remote unlock button. How to achieve this setting?
I have a 2013 Prius Three. If I drive somewhere (engine completely warm) and stop, like at a store, come back 5-10 mins later, hit the power button, sometimes the ICE will start and immediately shut off, like within 1 second. It can't be the warm up cycle as the ICE is at normal operating temperature. I guess it is not a issue, as one of the 20 computers is doing this and there are no lights(like cel).
View 18 RepliesOn Monday evening my wife left our 2010 Prius Gen III without pressing the "off" button. She took the keys with her and she claims that she locked the car.
On Wednesday morning I noticed that the dashboard panel was switched on and I deduced that the Prius has been running all the time, with the ICE engine kicking in now and then to keep up the Hybrid battery level. A quick call to my dealer confirmed this, and also the fuel consumption average was in line: 14 l/100 km on a 20 Km trip (my average is 3.9 -4.2 l/100km...).
I was very surprised to discover that the Prius does not switches off when the key is removed (i.e. taken far away from the car). This seems to me a sort of engineering flaw.
My Prius engine wouldn't shut off when the button was pushed. The Toyota dealer was clueless.
View 12 RepliesMy Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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