Prius (2001-03) :: Brakes Are Soft And Can't Remove Key
Jun 9, 2013
Bought a prius off craigslist that didn't have a hybrid battery. Replaced it with a used reinvolt battery off ebay. Car starts right up now. However, there's a few things wrong with it. I can't get the key out of the ignition and the brakes are soft. Could these be related?
I have a fully charged and known good 12v battery in the car. And when I remove it, the key comes right out. If I bleed the brakes, do you think that will solve the problem?
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I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I own a 2004 camry 3.0 v6 Car. Recently, i realized that i have to press hard on the brakes for the car to stop and its been like that ever since. I driven my dads rav4 and my friends corolla to test and their cars begin to stop just as i light press on the brakes. Mine however, i need more force to being to slow the car down.
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A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
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The pedal used to go right down to the floor and would barely stop the car from a crawl, in response I have bled the brake lines to all calipers, and checked the hydro booster fluid level, and with only slight improvement the pedal almost hits the floor.
I am thinking the brake master cylinder is shot. The pedal becomes solid after about 15 pumps when off, and holds pressure, when on it takes several pumps to build any sort of pressure and cannot be built up to the solid point, and looses pressure quickly when just holding the pedal down.
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I just purchased a 04 GX 470 the braking system seems to have a lot of travel and are very sponge. I live in MO and it pasted the state inspection. I check fluid and it is good. It has the electronic braking and 4 wheel disk. Is this normal or should I seek Lexis dealer service. I also have a GS430 and the breaks are right there.
Added info: I do not feel any pulsating in the pedal but there is a pulsation in the SUV when it coming to a stop. Feels as if the rotors may need to be turned but the pulsation is not hard it is smooth.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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I changed front rotors and bled brakes. They were hard for a few days and went soft. No leak in fluid (MC reservoir is still full). No leak in fluid near any wheel. Could I need to bench bleed the master cylinder?
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Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion (I4). Recently the brake pedal goes extremely soft after the anti-lock brake system engages. It can still brake, but I have to press the pedal almost to touching the floor. It will stay soft a while (at least 20 min, probably longer), but I found that if I pump them hard a few times (like while at a red light) it then returns to normal.
My mechanic can't figure out why it doesn't immediately return to normal after the ABS engages, and he's not sure what to replace to fix it. I don't have the cash right now to just go replacing lots of stuff, hoping it might work.
(He even mentioned the possibility of removing the ABS fuse to prevent the ABS from kicking in and triggering the problem. Though wouldn't that be a step backward, safety-wise? I always heard that ABS is much more effective than pumping brakes manually...)
What's causing this and how to fix it?
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I have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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My son just bought a 97 F150 with the back brakes blocked off. The front brakes had about full pedal when the was on. We changed the front calipers and brake pads. Bled them came back with great brakes (with back brakes blocked).
Then we found out the back calipers was none so we bought all new parts for both back brakes, found some leaks in the rear lines fixed them. Now we bled the brakes with the motor off till no air came out. Solid pedal. Then turned on the motor and the pedal goes down 3/4 of the way now easy.
Stops on snow good no tire sliding. Turn off the motor has solid pedal again.
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I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon that I have owned for about 2.5 years, and I love it. I travel for work and I use rental cars alot. I have noticed in the past year that my brakes feel softer than most cars I drive, but I figure.. they are new cars, and my car is pretty old.
In the past 2-3 months I have notices a pulsing in my brakes...it sounds/feels kinda like the ABS, but I was thinking it would be worth getting my brakes inspected soon.
Then this past week, I totally blew a brake line when I was driving.
The car has about 140,000 miles on it and the mechanic says a brake line alone may not be related to the pulsing sounds...because brake lines usually go because of rust....
So...thoughts on things I should be looking at? What could the pulsing be a symptom of?
if one brake line blew, and it is rust, is the other one not far behind? (this was a new england car up until 2 years ago)
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So the other day I had someone change lanes and slam on the binders right in front of me which caused me to slam on mine. Luckily no one got hit. Now my brakes feel different. Sometimes the pedal feels nice a firm other times it pushes in 2-3" before starting to brake. The fluid level has not changed in the resevoir and the hydroboost appears to be working fine. The power steering is still operating as before. I have checked the calipers and none are leaking.
My suspect is the master cylinder but was wondering if the symptoms are common with the master cylinder failing? I'm thinking internal o-ring has failed due to the near accident event. I'm going to do power steering flush just because I never have. Is there anything that would display these symptoms that I could check before buying the master cylinder?
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So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
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How to remove the combination meter on an '02? Any place to down load the repair manual pages that covers this?
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