Prius (2001-03) :: Blue Temp Light On When First Start Up
Aug 20, 2012
New/used Prius owner here with a million questions. Only 1 today. When I first start the car a light pops up that looks like a blue thermometer. Does this mean coolant is low? Also, is there some grand legend somewhere that I can look at to see what everything means. Just ordered the manual but it'll be a few days until I get it.
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I bought a used Toyota Prius last winter and when the weather became hot I tried to use my AC and it worked well for a while before the Ac light FLASHING and then the AC doesn't work but the fan still working and the air became hot more than the outside temperature !! And that only happen when the weather temperature is 30c or over !! So I took it an AC tech and he told me he couldn't do anything to it because it's a hybrid car and it uses 600W Ac, so I took it to the Toyota dealer and they looked at it and they didn't know what is the exact problem so they told me I need to change the clutch relay and if it didn't work then I need to change the Magnetic Clutch.
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My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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I noticed what like water Steam or smoke when start the car after parking it for more than 6 hours.
Here is a like to youtube I see the smoke is a little blue ....
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My '06 only shows 1 blue bar when I start up. Is this a bad indication as to its' longevity? Got me a little worried......126K on the car.
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My car sat for three days in a parking lot while I was away. When came back I noticed a flashing blue light coming from just below the steering wheel and above the brake pedal at the edge of the under part of the dash. When I entered the car, and started it, it went away.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara Convertible, V6, low mileage (92,000), and it will reliably NOT start when the temperature gets below freezing. I have tried a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner on advice from a friend, but no success. Once the temp falls below freezing overnight, the engine cranks but never catches. Once the temp is above freezing for a few hours, it fires up fine.
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I have a 2001 gti, driving home today my temperature slowly started rising, oil light came on.
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This has been a very good car for us. We've had it since '03 with 30k. Problems have been minimal, till now. The 'check engine' light came on several months ago, and we were unable to afford the repairs. We used it as a 65 miles per day commuter car, mostly at highway speeds. The mileage has dropped off abruptly from the long-term 42 mpg down all the way to 24. There is a nasty vibration on startup. It lasts for maybe 30 seconds and then calms down. We are now at a place where we can do the repairs.
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2002 Prius, ~165k miles. When I first start the car, the first 30 seconds or 1 minute the "Consumption" display will show no outside temp and the mpg gauge stuck at 100mpg. After warming up (I use that term loosely as its still 70s/80s here), it will operate like normal. Shutting the car off and turning it back on will not bring the issue back - the car will need to sit for a few hours or overnight for the problem to come back. What is going on here?
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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Multi function goes off and ready light doesn't come on when turn key to start.
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So driving to work today I noticed my battery light came on..... Well I kept driving only cause I figured if my belt slipped off it would be to late to save it/if it was my temp gauge would start going into the red..... So as I'm still driving it kept turning off and then back on(the battery light) the whole way of a 25min ride.....
Finally got to work popped the hood and belt was in tact and seemed to have good tension... So I don't think it slipped or came off.... And then checked battery just to double check and everything is connected.... Now as we all know are alternators are right under the intake mani so front end has to come off to test it/replace it.....
Also when coming to red lights on the way to work the idle seemed fine never seemed to fluctuate crazy.... I know when my Audi had a bad alternator when I came to stops it about cut the motor off/did if I didn't keep the throttle revving it up but not sure as I haven't been able to test anything yet.
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I've got a 2001 passat tdi 130, awx engine, its got 213k on the clock and has been a great car for the last couple of years, over the last couple of weeks it has been down on power and is really smokey,blue smoke, it seems to be worse if its left idling for a while then give it a good rev up and it lets out a big cloud of blue smoke, it doesn't clear and is smokey all the time, I've not noticed any drop in oil level either which makes me think it may be injectors but it still runs ok with no diesel knock and starts first time, I don't want to be wasting any money on buying a turbo or injectors if it doesn't need it.
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I own a 2001 Passat, engine code AVF, the problem is that I have blue smoke on the exhaust, lots of it. The turbocharger has been tested and has almost no play in the rotor, but I have tried to blow some air into the oil intake and the air flow is very low, I have to blow quite hard so some air can go through. I also get allot of smoke and oil from the Crankcase Ventilation Filter and also I could see some oil around the dipstick pipe.
Now I don't know if there is a turbocharger oil return pipe problem (maybe it is clogged), the turbocharger itself or maybe some other problem.
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I ran about 2 miles on EV then switched to HV 1/2 mile before getting on the freeway. After about 3miles red temp light came on Outside air temp was about 65. I was on a 2 mile long single lane transition so I was unable to get off the freeway. I slowed down to about 60mph from 70mph the light went off. The light was on for about 2min.
I got off the freeway and opened the hood. The coolant had over flowed puking coolant all over my clean engine. I was able to run EV to dealer to check. My guess was a stuck thermostat! Dealer just called me and after calling manufacture to discuss the the error codes and my symptoms, there best guess was a stuck thermostat.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 176k miles on it. I drive it about 65 miles each way to work every day. If I really baby the throttle, no warning lights ever come on, and the heat will take about 45 minutes to kick in. If I use the gas a little more aggressively, the heat will start working after about 30 minutes when I get on the freeway and speed up, BUT the high temperature warning light will intermittently come on. First, the red triangle Warning light will come on, followed by "PROBLEM" on the display followed by a red temperature indicator.
Typically it flickers off after just a few seconds, but sometimes the temp light stays on for longer, maybe 30 seconds or a minute before it shuts off. Then it continues to go on and off every few minutes for as long as I'm on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be directly related to when I hit the gas. I have checked the coolant level and it looks fine.
I bought the car back around 2010 when it had just received it's 100k mile maintenance and they had also just replaced the water pump. I haven't looked at the OBD-II codes, if there are any. I have never replaced the 12v battery. The lights are pretty annoying/alarming and I'm not sure if it's "normal" for the heat to take 30-45 minutes to come on. Maybe the 12v battery or the inverter pump need to be replaced?
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I am trying to change the color of the light on my dash board and center console from the standard orange to a light blue color. I've tried searching the internet looking for any advice but I haven't come across anything for a 2009 Toyota corolla. I understand that some cars need to have the light bulbs soldered and some can you can change out a colored film. Which of these options applies to my car? If it's the light bulb change then what size and how many. Also, how to take out the instrumental cluster.
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I picked up a 2001 ford ranger with a 2.3 from a friend of mine for next to nothing. it has a serious oil consumption problem. he just put a head gasket in trying to fix the problem with no luck. he thinks it has a broken oil ring. the truck only has 99xxx miles on it and i find it hard to believe that it broke a ring. I am thinking it has to be something like a bad pcv. If it is rings ill do the job but I don't want to pull the motor down just to find that all the rings are good and it was something that i looked over
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Ok I thought I remembered reading about this in the past. This morning I detailed the V8 T (19K miles) and started it to back it out of the garage. Got a big puff of blue/white smoke out the back. I searched but found nothing. Should I finally run to the nearest BMW dealer for an X5?
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Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
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