Prius (2001-03) :: AC On Max Setting Would Go Into Stealth Mode
Jun 24, 2015
My 2002 Prius A/C is acting strange. From what I understand, if you have Max A/C on it will keep the ICE running. Lately my car isn't doing that. Whenever I'm at traffic with the Max A/C on it will go into stealth mode then it will turn the engine on then back off again in a cycle.
Also whenever I hit the brakes or simply slowing down with the ac on the whole car will shake violently like theres a strong earthquake and its about to stall unless I shut the A/C off. This only occurs when the A/c is on btw.
Note :: I've had my ac charged so its not out of refrigerant. But I don't know what's causing it.
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I'm a longtime Prius owner starting with a 2007. Currently have a 2010 model V (not the wagon, the trim level with ATP). The maximum stealth mode speed (i.e. ICE not turning over) is about 46MPH. The maximum stealth mode speed for my old 2007 was 42MPH.
I just bought a 2012 Prius c as my commuting car. What is the maximum stealth mode speed?
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I have only been driving my Prius for a month. I have been paying close attention the to the Car energy usage screen. I have been noticing the car (while on cruise control) entering into stealth mode (Engine seemingly off and power getting drawn from battery only w/ about 3/4 bar on EV) on the highway @ 60mph going down a slight decline. I have been trying to mimic this on my own w/o the cruise control, but no matter what I try (P+G and other techniques) I cannot get the same results.
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Conditions often allow me to choose between moderate to high current draw in stealth mode, or a lightly loaded ICE (<1300 RPM). How much power do you find it's best to allow in stealth mode before you decide to give the throttle a slap and fire up the engine?
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I have a 2007 Prius with about 77,000 km on it. Lately I've noticed that the car would make an unusual noise sometimes when driving at around 50 - 60 km/hr in stealth mode, with slight accelerator pressure such that the energy monitor shows power flowing from the battery to the motor (ie - not gliding or regen braking).
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How to set TPS to the correct position? I removed it while cleaning the throttle body, and now I can't seem to get it positioned correctly. The engine keeps revving its self while in park. I read AllData's instruction about starting with a 15 degree rotation to the right and then adjusting it using a Toyota hand held meter (which I don't have).
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited. Dual climate control issue. The passenger side blows cold air regardless of the temperature setting or mode. How to remedy this?
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When I'm leaving the house and I pull out onto the street, I have to go close up a very annoying gate which takes a good few minutes to do. The car is still in it's warm up mode so the ICE is running the whole time. I know just turning it off would save gas, but would it be bad for the engine, to turn it off with the key before it shuts itself off?
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I have a problem with my 2002 Prius when I was driving down the highway the master warning light came on with a warning display screen appearing saying that there is a problem in the Hybrid System and then the car went into shut down mode. I had it towed to the dealer for diagnosis and an estimate. The codes read were P3000, P3004, P3125, and P3009 they did not tell me the sub-codes read. Their diagnosis was the inverter needed to be replaced. The Main battery on this car had been replacing at 140,000 and there has not been a problem since the car has been well taken care of throughout its life. Being new to working on hybrids but not cars and electronics I figured I could replace it cheaper than the dealer price of $4200. With the age of the car and high miles 175,000 I figured it would not be worth the new part price so I got a guaranteed used inverter. After replacing the inverter I still got the same problem with no change.
So I decided I would have to diagnose it myself. The car starts and runs fine and starts charging the battery right away as normal but if try to but it in reverse or drive it fails so that means the short would have to be in the transaxle. I decided to test MG1 and MG2 for shorts and I figured I would need to use a megger to do this but I did not all three winding on MG2 test shorted to ground on the 200-ohm scale on a regular ohm meter. Then after closer inspection of MG2 cables, you can see a coating of corrosion running up all three cables. So the question I have is this corrosion on the cables a common problem for 1st gen and could it be possibly just a cable issue and not MG2 and can the cables be replaced without dropping the engine and transaxle???
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The thread title says it all. I followed the instructions and watched the video. Did I unplug something by accident?
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So I am getting really sick of my 02 Prius...it only has 124k miles on it. So what is happening now is that I'll be driving when all of a sudden the car slips into a neutral mode. The engine revs when I hit the accelerator but produces no power. So I pull over, throw it in Park, turn the car off, and when I restart, it is back to normal.
These are the codes I'm getting...I know this slippage is only one of my problems..
p1437
p3191
p3006
p3011
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I have noticed a mid-pitched humming noise in my '02. I first noticed it about a week after getting four new tires put on it. It is speed dependent, and is most noticeable at about 35 mph.
Somehow I have gotten it in my head that the car might be stuck in "battery charge" mode. I can't tell easily because my car has a permanent power steering problem so I don't have the charge/power car diagram on my dash. I can still feel a difference when I shift into "B" when going downhill.
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I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
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I have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia that started having problems with the intermittent setting on the wipers. It is now to the point that it runs just like the slow wiper setting with no delay, it also doesn't "park" the wipers when turned off. I found that with the ignition in ACC position the wipers work perfectly (intermittent works and wiper "parks" properly when turned off) but when the engine is running I only have a Low or High wiper speed and no "Parking". I have researched online and most say to replace switch or wiper motor but both work with engine off so I am wandering if it is being overpowered with the engine running.
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My AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
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I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
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My cruise control has been acting very funny lately. The light comes on normal all the time when I press on/off. However about half the time the cruise does not set when I press set. By this I mean, on Monday this week my cruise refused to set on my way to work, but on my way home it worked just fine. On Tuesday, the cruise worked perfect all day. Today, it did not work going to work or coming home.
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My 2001 f350 a/c blower works better on a/c compared to max a/c . When I turn the selector to max a/c it makes more of a blowing noise but less air blows out of the vents though. When I select plain a/c it makes less noise but blows more air out of the vents. What is wrong and how to go about fixing it is 93 here today and won't get much cooler over the summer months .
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Always? Never? Sometimes? Depends on circumstances like grade?
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reset trip a
how do I set the trip A meter to zero.. Instructions in manual are a bit useless
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