Prius (2001-03) :: AC Light Flashing / Fan Still Working And Air Became Hot More Than Outside Temp
Jun 30, 2011
I bought a used Toyota Prius last winter and when the weather became hot I tried to use my AC and it worked well for a while before the Ac light FLASHING and then the AC doesn't work but the fan still working and the air became hot more than the outside temperature !! And that only happen when the weather temperature is 30c or over !! So I took it an AC tech and he told me he couldn't do anything to it because it's a hybrid car and it uses 600W Ac, so I took it to the Toyota dealer and they looked at it and they didn't know what is the exact problem so they told me I need to change the clutch relay and if it didn't work then I need to change the Magnetic Clutch.
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I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
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New/used Prius owner here with a million questions. Only 1 today. When I first start the car a light pops up that looks like a blue thermometer. Does this mean coolant is low? Also, is there some grand legend somewhere that I can look at to see what everything means. Just ordered the manual but it'll be a few days until I get it.
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My A/C light starts flashing after about 30 minutes of use. The A/C is still cold while it's running, but it warms up when the light starts blinking.
At this point I'm planning on replacing the clutch assembly. How far apart do I need to take the car so I can reach the clutch? Is there something else I can test to see if the compressor is on its last legs, before I put money into the clutch?
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My daughter has a 2001 Prius with about 165,000 miles on it. She was driving it and the red high temp light came on and stayed on. She also said that a few minutes later she lost power. She stopped and turned it off. Waited a few minutes, and started it again. The light went off and she drove it home about 5 miles. The light came on when she got home. No engine codes. I changed the thermostat. I filled it back up with fresh antifreeze and water and took out to test drive. No leaks. 2 miles down the road the light came back on. I stopped and checked it. upper radiator hose, hot and lower hose cold. Radiator not warm. Blowing out hot air with the heater. I think the water pump belt is on, as i am at work right now but will check as soon as I get home. I took the old thermostat and put it in a pan of boiling water and it opened, so apparently it was the thermostat.
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It's getting hot, and the A/C in our 2002 is completely nonfunctional (and has been since we bought it a year ago). Unfortunately it also doesn't provide a diagnostic code.
When the A/C is turned on, the light begins flashing immediately, and the air is not cold. I've tried it while the engine is at high RPMs, and idling in the driveway with no change in results. When I put it in diagnostic mode there still aren't any codes (except the solar sensor if it is dark). If the ICE is off when I turn on the A/C, the ICE fires up briefly then shuts down.
The mechanic we bought it from suspected the compressor. I hoped it was really the clutch (seems common), and that I could just put in shims to adjust the spacing. The only code I have gotten from it was for the cabin air intake servo motor shortly after we bought it. I found a mouse nest in the cabin air filter, which I figured was causing the problem. After replacing the filter the code went away but the A/C still wouldn't work.
I'm wondering.. Is there anything else I can do to trigger a DTC? Are there any specific problems that wouldn't have a DTC? Would a compressor/clutch problem certainly trigger a DTC? Can I test it when there is no functionality? (It seems more common to have intermittent trouble with that). If some of the mouse nest was sucked into the A/C system, could it cause this?
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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I have a 20th GTI and the Temp light is flashing. The car does not overheat, and runs normally. The temp gauge acts normally.
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My new to me 2001 Prius has a slowly flashing Airbag light. Reading this handy forum I found that by jumping two pins on the OBD port I could read the codes generated by the flashing lights. I did that, and have a 3233 and 4448. The car runs and drives fine, fluids are all good etc. Can the codes be cleared and see if they return?
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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My 2001 Malibu v-6 temp gauge is not working. I have replaced the temp sending unit and it works for a few weeks unit it goes out. What keeps killing the temp sendor?
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2005 Elantra with around 92,000 miles. Two days ago the temp would spike while at idle not dangerously hot but would come close, the temp would cool down once i started driving. Cooling fans both work and coolant levels are good. Just yesterday the A/C just stopped working and car would come close to overheating while going down the road now.
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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After changing the battery on my key fob my immobilizer now wont work.The key fob flashes twice telling us its disarmed but it wont re-arm itself.Now we have followed a coupe of online procedures regarding resetting the transmitter box.We did this and still it wont work.Central locking is working from key and car starting from key,But key fob jsu not syncing up!!
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I have a weird problem. My recently installed stereo (aftermarket) is not working. There is a red light on the main dial that indicates that it is "off", but it will not turn on. Nothing is displayed on the main stereo panel, hiting power doesn't work, no turning on the various modes: only the weird red ring. The dome light still works, as do the map lights. Which fuse should I be looking at? Or is it an inline fuse gone just badly enough that it can power the "off" light but not the actual stereo?
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I have a 99 passat, v6, 5 speed , 110k. ABS light was flashing for past 6 months and I decided to have module replaced by another used one. So put everything back together and ABS light is still on (ok, maybe bad used unit too) but I have another problem now, my rpm's are not working and oil light starts flashing too. So I unplugged ABS and my rpm's came back, oil light is not flashing any more. I am little confused now, is there a wiring problem that just happened in a bad time ot these two are related? Car does have a traction control too.
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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2001 01 1.8t... Hoping this isn't a bad ABS module. When I bought the car, I was told it was a bad wheel sensor in the drivers side. But, the funny part about this is its not on all the time, sometimes it doesn't even come on and the dash is normal.
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I replaced the sensor on top of the water pump and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge by unplugging and grounding out the wire and the gauge goes all the way up. What I can try next. I didn't get a Motorcraft sensor so I'm going to go get one of those tomorrow hoping the duralast wasn't correct even though it looked 98 percent identical to the original. 7.3 lite diesel.
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