Prius (2001-03) :: AC Light Flashes And Compressor Disengage
Jul 23, 2015
I have charged system 134 ... Compressor works at start up until warm, then light flashes and compressor disengages. No noise and gets cold until motor gets heated.
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
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Recently, (luckily after the kiddo took her driving test) the ABS light constantly flashes at a steady non- patterned flash. Other than it just continues to flash, nothing seems to be out of the ordinary. Once in awhile it will not flash from a restart, but lately it's flashing more than not when restarted. I had hoped it would flash a certain pattern in order to troubleshoot the error.
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Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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Just noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
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2005 Elantra Gt ... With a great car like this I hate to be whining about the cruise control but.... the cruise light goes on when the system is turned on, but when attempting to set the cruise, the "set" light flashes on for a fraction of a second and then goes off, and it doesn't set. I've owned this car for over 3 years and it used to work fine. After reading other comments and situations I checked the brake lights which seem to be working fine, and the fuse seems to be OK.
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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My 2001 f150 is not starting up. The anti theft light flashes and then eventually slows down and flashes one time, pauses and then flashes two more times. The odometer still shows my mileage as I know some people with this issue just get dashes. I know there are passive anti theft codes that can indicate what is wrong but cant find a chart with any info for all the codes. I'm going to assume my pats transceiver module is shot. Or maybe the key simply needs to be reprogrammed? I checked fuses, relays, etc and didn't see any that were blown. What could be causing it? Or maybe there's a relay I forgot to check out.
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I just changed the rear rotors and pads on a 2010. Mileage is 145,000, owned since new. It seems the ASC/TRAC light now flashes when pedal is depressed (put car in drive in garage - depress pedal - one beep and light flashes). I had trouble with one of the the caliper pistions, and screwed it all the way out and lost 1/2 teaspoon of brake fluid, so I may have introduced air into the line. Would this cause this? Is there anything unusual about bleeding brakes (as compared to non-regenerative braking cars)?
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Quick question, my wife wasn't able to open our '04 Prius with the FOB. I replaced the battery, and the FOB started flashing, which I'm assuming means that the new battery is working properly. However, after I put the FOB back together, the lock/unlock buttons still don't work. I can still manually open the car with the attached key and start the car with the FOB, but I was wondering if there's still a problem.
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I'm still trying to get a manual for my recently acquired 2004 Prius, so I can't trace down what this means....
When I start the car, recently, a "Maint Required" light comes on and flashes about three or four times, then goes away. This is after all the other dash lights during the test phase go out. When I took it to have the codes read, the device said "No Codes" stored.
What does this mean? And is it a serious problem?
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About 2 months ago ('06 Prius - 386K) 12v battery was replaced - red triangle disappeared and everything has been fine. ( I have driven the car about 7K since replacement).
Now on my 2800 mile trip, the following is happening. With Cruise Control on and functioning - freeway traffic comes to an almost halt (5-8 mph) after traffic picks up Cruise Control light on dash is flashing and will not function. (Pull over and re-boot the Win95 machine - and everything is back to working until next slow down).
I am now driving on a service road to my hotel at approx. 25mph and as I go over every patch in the asphalt my Traction Control light comes on and then off and it makes the car act like it is on ice ( and yes the Cruise Control light is back to flashing).
On my journey on this 5 miles of access road then my stereo volume starts going up and down all on its own. If I try turning the volume knob nothing happens. I push the knob in and then push on the knob to come back out and then the volume knob works and then the volume control on the steering wheel starts to work as well.
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When I am at a full stop, such as waiting at a stoplight, and I press hard on the brake pedal, the stability control light flashes on the instrument panel.
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3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2014 Prius model 4 and had a remote starter installed at the dealer. So far, the car has been at the dealer 3 times and they cannot figure out why the remote start will not work. When you press the lock button twice then the 3rd time for 3 seconds, the lights flash and you can watch as the dash lights begin to come on, then everything shuts down. The dealer contacted Toyota because this is all a warranty issue and was instructed to reprogram the computer which they did. After doing so they received an error code that a door, hood or trunk was open, but none were. They checked all the door, hood and trunk latch electronics and all were fine. Personally, I feel I must have received a faulty remote starter, but Toyota so far seems unwilling to replace it.
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My 2010 Prius orange Triangle flashes and beeps when I make a sudden turn or brake. The car works normal otherwise. What could cause this to happen. I only started recently...
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My Prius touring had 4 205/55/16 tires. I had the mechanic change the front two tires to 205/50/16 and now, whenever I drive over 60mph, the slip indicator light flashes continuously. When I slow down, it goes away.
Is it because the front and rear tires are mismatched? If so, I'll have the mechanic change the rear to 205/50/16 as well.
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